Are there any palms available that are tolerant of full sun have planteda few over the years but seem to suffer when melbourne summer comes around may be planting wrong? Any help would be great .
Thanks Dean
palms
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Dean
Most palms like to be shaded from full northerly sun exposure when young. What palms did you try and how big were they when planted, plus what's the position (direction/sun exposure/soil moisture level/northerly wind exposure etc etc)? Oh, and what planting techniques did you use?
Most palms like to be shaded from full northerly sun exposure when young. What palms did you try and how big were they when planted, plus what's the position (direction/sun exposure/soil moisture level/northerly wind exposure etc etc)? Oh, and what planting techniques did you use?
Best to plant large shrubs and small trees in there as well. When you look at a good tropical setting or garden, these plants are dominant features. These allow the palms to get established.
The other thing is the care most are commonly given for them. I suggest, good organic compost, certified if possible. Make sure they are heavily mulched and so is the entire garden bed they are growing in. This must be done with either straw or freshly mulched tree contractor mulch. 7-10cm thick. That stabilises the soil temps a little more, keeps the soil cooler in times of both critical heat and cold.
Use Seasol on them, powerfeed. Molasses and lots of it. (see the molasses thread) Compost teas. (See links in my sig)
You will note I have not mentioned "palm food" or fertiliser.
The other thing is the care most are commonly given for them. I suggest, good organic compost, certified if possible. Make sure they are heavily mulched and so is the entire garden bed they are growing in. This must be done with either straw or freshly mulched tree contractor mulch. 7-10cm thick. That stabilises the soil temps a little more, keeps the soil cooler in times of both critical heat and cold.
Use Seasol on them, powerfeed. Molasses and lots of it. (see the molasses thread) Compost teas. (See links in my sig)
You will note I have not mentioned "palm food" or fertiliser.
The suns too "hot" this far south for many tropical palms too look good through summer. Bangalow palms are your best bet in a protected spot. Coco's palms work in full sun but they are horrible weedy stinky fruit dropping pests IMO. If you have dabbled shade then your options open up and a lot. There is a melb palm specialist not far from you called The palm place nursery in greenvale, they will be able to offer localized advice.
Fu's advice and have you tried triangle palms?
I am not a fan at all of palms but a nice triangle is a hardy and spectacular beast IMO.
I am not a fan at all of palms but a nice triangle is a hardy and spectacular beast IMO.
It's a combination of our weather and simply not understanding the palms that's often the issue. We get fooled by the typical image of palms waving in the salt-breeze on a beach and think: direct light, wind, growing in sand so dry soil etc “It’ll be fine!”
Most palms however, including the bungalow palm, need shade when young and are generally not drought tolerant, needing well drained soil and plenty of water. Although some are cold hardy, they rarely cope with frost (mountain palms such as Trachycarpus fortune being one of the few who actually like frost & snow) and prefer humid air and radiant, rather than direct, heat. They are also gross feeders in their growing time, liking plenty of nitrogen, though that said, many are at their best when planted as a group with other palms of the same type when they need to compete with nutrients. They become more hardy as they mature.
It's a good idea to prepare the soil in the way that Fu suggested, but also to dig in a good supply of manure, giving it time to break down a bit before planting (a couple of weeks).
When planting a palm, it’s best to do so at the end of spring, when the weather is warmer but there’s still lots of rain around. The hole should be deep enough to allow the palm to sit at the same level as it was in it’s container, but should be wider to allow for new growth from the root ball as the palm becomes established. The palm should go straight in the hole and and be watered thoroughly.
The mulch should be thick and, at the end of winter, should be topped up with fresh green mulch/straw & green manure combo, which will give them that nitrogen boost ready for growing over spring and summer. Don’t take the mulch right up to the palm because newly emerging roots can be damaged. The mulch will help keep them moist, but a young palm will need regular watering for the first couple of growing seasons.
You should water daily for the first few weeks, then regularly once established. Avoid letting them dry out in spring and summer as it will restrict their growth. Most will cope with a good watering twice a week when it's dry, but you might want to get a rain barrel out just for these guys as the more water they get over this period the better.
They also need shade at the beginning. Planting as an understorey plant for a couple of years until established, so they receive shade is a good idea, but you can also stick up a shade cloth. Some people will plant in large pots so that they can go under the family shade sail on the patio or whatever before moving.
If you choose to move a palm to a more permanent spot at a later date, that should be done during spring NOT autumn or winter. Tropical & subtropical palms are pretty much dormant during autumn and winter, so moving them then could kill them. You want to do it during the beginning of the growing season so that they get lots of good growth to recover - make sure you give them lots of nitrogen rich manure in their new spot and mulch!
When moving them, you should also do this gradually, which is why the pot idea is good. Don't just uproot them from their nice shaded position into full northerly sun and wind exposure as they will not thank you for it!
Generally, the sunnier the position the more water they will need. I know it’s obvious, but a lot of people don’t remember to up the water when they move their palms into sunnier spots.
Oh, and planting initially with a thick area of plants that will create a little humid microclimate will really help.
Palms generally look great when planted as a grove, so a minimum of 3, more if you have the space. One will often go crazy and become far taller, the others forming the understorey.
For suggestions that will do well in Melbourne, like Beatrix said, check with a local grower for much more up to date info, but I can suggest a few. I won’t go into too much detail, as you should look them up yourself and see what you like the look of and consider your own little microclimate, but this should get you more than started.
My taxonomy might be a tad out of date though, as my book is way old, not that it matters, because I’ll probably spell them wrong anyway...
Archontophoenix palms:
A. alexandrae – Alexandra Palm – native Australian, central to northern Queensland coastal rainforests – solitary to about 25m with canopy of feather-like fronds to around 2m – fast grower of up to 1m per year – shade or full sun, but need lots of water & may even do well in poorly drained soil when in a full sun position – can cope with exposed positions fairly well
A. cunninhamiana – Bungalow Palm – as for A. alexandrae, however fronds are a bit bulkier and can be damaged by heavy winds, so prefer more sheltered position – more cold tolerant – known to grow alongside or even in creek beds in native habitat
Chamaedoreas:
C. cataractarum – Mexican Hat Palm – clumping trunkless palm to 2m x 2.5m (ish) – shaded, moist spot but can cope with full sun if given tonnes of water (it grows in stream banks in native habitat & therefore is often covered by floodwaters) – frost tolerant – large roots so not suitable for a pot
C. elegans – Parlour Palm – mostly grown indoors, but does well in sheltered spots outside as long as shaded, with bright indirect light being okay (i.e. not full sun!) – to 2m tall and makes great understorey for a jungle style garden
C. metallica – Metallic Palm – small palm to about 50cm, generally with undivided leaves though there are split leave varieties, leaves have an interesting sheen – deep shade to full sun - often used for landscaping – doesn’t look like a palm at all, but great as understorey planting in a jungle set up
C. seifrizii – Bamboo Palm – this is a densely clumping palm to about 3m – cold tolerant – common as a houseplant – makes a good screening palm & great in the garden
Howeas:
H.balmoreana - Belmore Sentry Palm - mountainous forest palm to 10m, native to Lord Howe Island - adaptable, liking low light to full sun, but preferring temperate to sub-tropical climates - fairly slow growing, but does well in Melbourne - sold as a house plant all over the world, even though it deteriotes rapidly when kept in a pot
H. forsteriana - Kentia Palm - very similar to the related H. balmoreana, but not as tolerant of full sun & can get a bit raggedy if not sheltered - can be multi-trunked - copes with being neglected hence being good as a house plant, but thrives in rich loamy soil and with plenty of water - does better in a pot than H. balmoreana
Phoenix palms (can be spiny!!):
P. canariensis – Canary Island Date Palm – very large to 20m, but single trunked – not self-cleaning so you need a very big ladder! – seedlings can be slow to get going, but speed up once the trunk develops & are then fast growing – very hardy, frost, salt spray, drought tolerant and likes a full sun position
P. reclinata – Senegal Date Palm – found in swampy areas and river banks in Africa – frost tolerant, likes lots of water & obviously copes with poorly drained soil – these look really cool in parks, but are large clumping palms to about 10m, so too big for most gardens
P. roebelenii – Rainforests of south Asia – to about 3m generally, but is long growing and can get a lot taller, not self-cleaning (might want to leave the fronds to avoid the spines!) – hardy, generally single trunked in cultivation (multi-trunked and clumping in natural habitat) – heavy shade to full sun, lots of water but must be well drained – seedlings slow until trunk develops, then fast growing
Washingtonias:
W. filifera – Californian Fan Palm – solitary palm to around 15m from desert & semi-arid gorges & canyons – very hardy, drought & frost tolerant, sunny well-drained position – pretty spikey leaf bases
W. robusta – Mexican Fan Palm – as for W. filifera, but to 20m
Not included in the list above, but one I think does excellently in Melbourne is:
Trachycarpus fortunei - Chinese Windmill or Fan Palm - these guys are one of the most common palms grown in Melbourne - mountain palm that's used to being snowed on in native habitat, but likes full sun and moist soil - grows to around 10m and has fan like fronds - not self-cleaning (ie it doesn't drop it's leaves so you need a big ladder if you want to saw them off!) - seeds easy to germinate & seedlings grow fast - growth can be slow in first few years if not given adequate water, nutrients & protection, but often mysteriously takes off - when cared for, it's known to grow up to 30cm of trunk per year or more, growing fastest in cooler weather and at night – although rare, some will grow multi-trunked - needs to be protected from wind!! More detailed info: http://www.plantapalm.com/vpe/palmkey/trachykey/trachykey.htm
You can also take a look at:
Large palms - Bismarckia nobilis this is a huge fan palm with silver fronds to 3m across, looks great if you’ve got the space; Caryota mitis; Chambeyronia macrocarpa (Red Feather Palm), to about 20m and new leaves are bright red for around 2 weeks, can cope with full sun and poorly drained soil and is pretty neat looking!; Dypsis baroni or D. lutescens; Roystonea regia, which has a beautiful trunk but does get big, if you have the space & aren’t worried about having huge fronds drop on your head or other plants, I’d get it!; Wodyetia bifurcate (native Aussie Foxtail Palm).
Medium palms – Areca triandra (bamboo like stems); Dypsis decaryi (Triangle Palm) very cool plant & great as a specimen tree, preferring full sun but needing regular watering and not doing so well in the winds, but works in a pot; D. leptocheilos fast growing to 10m, light shade/full sun; .Hyophorbe lagenicaulis is a bottle palm to only about 4m with a 2m spread, likes sun, tolerates light frosts and looks great; H. verschaffeltii (Spindle Palm i.e. it’s narrower at the top & bottom than in the middle!), to about 6m, sunny position, frost & salt tolerant; Ptychosperma elegans, another Aussie native, but suffers on extremely hot days or in northerly winds even when well watered; P. macarthurii a very adaptable Aussie native palm that seems to do better in cultivation than in the wild; Rhapis excels (more bamboo like stems) to about 3.5m, suffers again on the really hot and/or windy days, slow grower but adaptable
So, anyway, I hope that helps
Most palms however, including the bungalow palm, need shade when young and are generally not drought tolerant, needing well drained soil and plenty of water. Although some are cold hardy, they rarely cope with frost (mountain palms such as Trachycarpus fortune being one of the few who actually like frost & snow) and prefer humid air and radiant, rather than direct, heat. They are also gross feeders in their growing time, liking plenty of nitrogen, though that said, many are at their best when planted as a group with other palms of the same type when they need to compete with nutrients. They become more hardy as they mature.
It's a good idea to prepare the soil in the way that Fu suggested, but also to dig in a good supply of manure, giving it time to break down a bit before planting (a couple of weeks).
When planting a palm, it’s best to do so at the end of spring, when the weather is warmer but there’s still lots of rain around. The hole should be deep enough to allow the palm to sit at the same level as it was in it’s container, but should be wider to allow for new growth from the root ball as the palm becomes established. The palm should go straight in the hole and and be watered thoroughly.
The mulch should be thick and, at the end of winter, should be topped up with fresh green mulch/straw & green manure combo, which will give them that nitrogen boost ready for growing over spring and summer. Don’t take the mulch right up to the palm because newly emerging roots can be damaged. The mulch will help keep them moist, but a young palm will need regular watering for the first couple of growing seasons.
You should water daily for the first few weeks, then regularly once established. Avoid letting them dry out in spring and summer as it will restrict their growth. Most will cope with a good watering twice a week when it's dry, but you might want to get a rain barrel out just for these guys as the more water they get over this period the better.
They also need shade at the beginning. Planting as an understorey plant for a couple of years until established, so they receive shade is a good idea, but you can also stick up a shade cloth. Some people will plant in large pots so that they can go under the family shade sail on the patio or whatever before moving.
If you choose to move a palm to a more permanent spot at a later date, that should be done during spring NOT autumn or winter. Tropical & subtropical palms are pretty much dormant during autumn and winter, so moving them then could kill them. You want to do it during the beginning of the growing season so that they get lots of good growth to recover - make sure you give them lots of nitrogen rich manure in their new spot and mulch!
When moving them, you should also do this gradually, which is why the pot idea is good. Don't just uproot them from their nice shaded position into full northerly sun and wind exposure as they will not thank you for it!
Generally, the sunnier the position the more water they will need. I know it’s obvious, but a lot of people don’t remember to up the water when they move their palms into sunnier spots.
Oh, and planting initially with a thick area of plants that will create a little humid microclimate will really help.
Palms generally look great when planted as a grove, so a minimum of 3, more if you have the space. One will often go crazy and become far taller, the others forming the understorey.
For suggestions that will do well in Melbourne, like Beatrix said, check with a local grower for much more up to date info, but I can suggest a few. I won’t go into too much detail, as you should look them up yourself and see what you like the look of and consider your own little microclimate, but this should get you more than started.
My taxonomy might be a tad out of date though, as my book is way old, not that it matters, because I’ll probably spell them wrong anyway...
Archontophoenix palms:
A. alexandrae – Alexandra Palm – native Australian, central to northern Queensland coastal rainforests – solitary to about 25m with canopy of feather-like fronds to around 2m – fast grower of up to 1m per year – shade or full sun, but need lots of water & may even do well in poorly drained soil when in a full sun position – can cope with exposed positions fairly well
A. cunninhamiana – Bungalow Palm – as for A. alexandrae, however fronds are a bit bulkier and can be damaged by heavy winds, so prefer more sheltered position – more cold tolerant – known to grow alongside or even in creek beds in native habitat
Chamaedoreas:
C. cataractarum – Mexican Hat Palm – clumping trunkless palm to 2m x 2.5m (ish) – shaded, moist spot but can cope with full sun if given tonnes of water (it grows in stream banks in native habitat & therefore is often covered by floodwaters) – frost tolerant – large roots so not suitable for a pot
C. elegans – Parlour Palm – mostly grown indoors, but does well in sheltered spots outside as long as shaded, with bright indirect light being okay (i.e. not full sun!) – to 2m tall and makes great understorey for a jungle style garden
C. metallica – Metallic Palm – small palm to about 50cm, generally with undivided leaves though there are split leave varieties, leaves have an interesting sheen – deep shade to full sun - often used for landscaping – doesn’t look like a palm at all, but great as understorey planting in a jungle set up
C. seifrizii – Bamboo Palm – this is a densely clumping palm to about 3m – cold tolerant – common as a houseplant – makes a good screening palm & great in the garden
Howeas:
H.balmoreana - Belmore Sentry Palm - mountainous forest palm to 10m, native to Lord Howe Island - adaptable, liking low light to full sun, but preferring temperate to sub-tropical climates - fairly slow growing, but does well in Melbourne - sold as a house plant all over the world, even though it deteriotes rapidly when kept in a pot
H. forsteriana - Kentia Palm - very similar to the related H. balmoreana, but not as tolerant of full sun & can get a bit raggedy if not sheltered - can be multi-trunked - copes with being neglected hence being good as a house plant, but thrives in rich loamy soil and with plenty of water - does better in a pot than H. balmoreana
Phoenix palms (can be spiny!!):
P. canariensis – Canary Island Date Palm – very large to 20m, but single trunked – not self-cleaning so you need a very big ladder! – seedlings can be slow to get going, but speed up once the trunk develops & are then fast growing – very hardy, frost, salt spray, drought tolerant and likes a full sun position
P. reclinata – Senegal Date Palm – found in swampy areas and river banks in Africa – frost tolerant, likes lots of water & obviously copes with poorly drained soil – these look really cool in parks, but are large clumping palms to about 10m, so too big for most gardens
P. roebelenii – Rainforests of south Asia – to about 3m generally, but is long growing and can get a lot taller, not self-cleaning (might want to leave the fronds to avoid the spines!) – hardy, generally single trunked in cultivation (multi-trunked and clumping in natural habitat) – heavy shade to full sun, lots of water but must be well drained – seedlings slow until trunk develops, then fast growing
Washingtonias:
W. filifera – Californian Fan Palm – solitary palm to around 15m from desert & semi-arid gorges & canyons – very hardy, drought & frost tolerant, sunny well-drained position – pretty spikey leaf bases
W. robusta – Mexican Fan Palm – as for W. filifera, but to 20m
Not included in the list above, but one I think does excellently in Melbourne is:
Trachycarpus fortunei - Chinese Windmill or Fan Palm - these guys are one of the most common palms grown in Melbourne - mountain palm that's used to being snowed on in native habitat, but likes full sun and moist soil - grows to around 10m and has fan like fronds - not self-cleaning (ie it doesn't drop it's leaves so you need a big ladder if you want to saw them off!) - seeds easy to germinate & seedlings grow fast - growth can be slow in first few years if not given adequate water, nutrients & protection, but often mysteriously takes off - when cared for, it's known to grow up to 30cm of trunk per year or more, growing fastest in cooler weather and at night – although rare, some will grow multi-trunked - needs to be protected from wind!! More detailed info: http://www.plantapalm.com/vpe/palmkey/trachykey/trachykey.htm
You can also take a look at:
Large palms - Bismarckia nobilis this is a huge fan palm with silver fronds to 3m across, looks great if you’ve got the space; Caryota mitis; Chambeyronia macrocarpa (Red Feather Palm), to about 20m and new leaves are bright red for around 2 weeks, can cope with full sun and poorly drained soil and is pretty neat looking!; Dypsis baroni or D. lutescens; Roystonea regia, which has a beautiful trunk but does get big, if you have the space & aren’t worried about having huge fronds drop on your head or other plants, I’d get it!; Wodyetia bifurcate (native Aussie Foxtail Palm).
Medium palms – Areca triandra (bamboo like stems); Dypsis decaryi (Triangle Palm) very cool plant & great as a specimen tree, preferring full sun but needing regular watering and not doing so well in the winds, but works in a pot; D. leptocheilos fast growing to 10m, light shade/full sun; .Hyophorbe lagenicaulis is a bottle palm to only about 4m with a 2m spread, likes sun, tolerates light frosts and looks great; H. verschaffeltii (Spindle Palm i.e. it’s narrower at the top & bottom than in the middle!), to about 6m, sunny position, frost & salt tolerant; Ptychosperma elegans, another Aussie native, but suffers on extremely hot days or in northerly winds even when well watered; P. macarthurii a very adaptable Aussie native palm that seems to do better in cultivation than in the wild; Rhapis excels (more bamboo like stems) to about 3.5m, suffers again on the really hot and/or windy days, slow grower but adaptable
So, anyway, I hope that helps
Oops, forgot to say you should check out the Palm & Cycad Societies of Australia website, as it's got a great plant listing with info and pics:
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/index.html
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/index.html
Oops, forgot to say you should check out the Palm & Cycad Societies of Australia website, as it's got a great plant listing with info and pics:
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/index.html
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/index.html
I was just about to say that
A1 advice too
Triangle palms, and Bismarks are good options
^ Never seen a Bismark palm down this way Fu, there's plenty of them around Cairns so I doubt they would be suitable here.
Great post Kerry.
I have a palm garden Kassan, and the most successful variety is definitely the Cocos. They grow very well around here in all conditions. I also have a few Bangalows (not Bungalows!!!
Much to Fu's annoyance
To acclimatise new palms that I buy, I re-pot them into a larger pot and keep them in my alfresco area until I'm ready to plant them, in the meantime dragging them around into the sun every now and then, but keeping them sheltered when the weather is too harsh, either hot or cold.
Great post Kerry.
I have a palm garden Kassan, and the most successful variety is definitely the Cocos. They grow very well around here in all conditions. I also have a few Bangalows (not Bungalows!!!
Much to Fu's annoyance
To acclimatise new palms that I buy, I re-pot them into a larger pot and keep them in my alfresco area until I'm ready to plant them, in the meantime dragging them around into the sun every now and then, but keeping them sheltered when the weather is too harsh, either hot or cold.
Bismarckia Nobilis are frost tolerant Eager - you just need to give them the protection they need to establish well and watch them grow...and grow....and grow....
When palms, or all plants really, are noted as being cold hardy or frost tolerant, quite often this is referring only to their growth in cultivation and not the wild. It's often the extreme to which a professional botanist etc has managed to get the plant to survive to, whilst giving them the protection they need to do so. If they get good growth in the growing season and a good level of mulch to protect those root systems, then you *might* be lucky enough to get them to survive to that temperature. Shrugs
Good to get some input from someone with experience of growing a variety of palms - the acclimatisation tip is a good one
When palms, or all plants really, are noted as being cold hardy or frost tolerant, quite often this is referring only to their growth in cultivation and not the wild. It's often the extreme to which a professional botanist etc has managed to get the plant to survive to, whilst giving them the protection they need to do so. If they get good growth in the growing season and a good level of mulch to protect those root systems, then you *might* be lucky enough to get them to survive to that temperature. Shrugs
Good to get some input from someone with experience of growing a variety of palms - the acclimatisation tip is a good one
I looked into palms sersiously and spoke to a few growers including ringing a supplier in Qld, they all pretty much said full sun this far south and the "classic" tropical looking palms like foxtails, alexanders will look poo. And i have looked very hard around melbourne and apart from the canary/date palms and cocos palms they all look utter rubbish in full sun. The cocos drop so much fruit and crap lots of people remove them after getting sick of the maintainence. In fact the cocos look pretty rough also after a normal summer.
As Fu said create a micro climate and away you go, the banglows planted together look brilliant and even work in inland Vic where its stinking dry heat. Or go for some of the non classic tropical palms as Kerry has suggested.
Here is some info;
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/palms/Articles/melbourne.html
As Fu said create a micro climate and away you go, the banglows planted together look brilliant and even work in inland Vic where its stinking dry heat. Or go for some of the non classic tropical palms as Kerry has suggested.
Here is some info;
http://www.pacsoa.org.au/palms/Articles/melbourne.html
I love palms and tropical gardens
A tropical gardens need to be done with great care and attention to soils more than any other. Building micro climates is crucial to them not only growing but that they are as effective as we envisage in our minds. You want them to be easy and without micro climates they struggle for years.
Green fresh mulches are essential.
A tropical gardens need to be done with great care and attention to soils more than any other. Building micro climates is crucial to them not only growing but that they are as effective as we envisage in our minds. You want them to be easy and without micro climates they struggle for years.
Green fresh mulches are essential.
Are there any palms available that are tolerant of full sun have planteda few over the years but seem to suffer when melbourne summer comes around may be planting wrong? Any help would be great .
Thanks Dean
Thanks Dean
Dean, I live in Perth. About 17 years ago I planted Cuban Royal 4m high trunk, Foxtail 5m high trunk, Triangle 1m high trunk, Bismark, Single stem Fish tail that grew to about 8m high (now removed as too close to house) and Golden Canes with 3m long stems. When I planted these I put half a bag of chook poo in the hole first followed by 50mm of soil and the the palm and they all took off. All of the green froned palms do get sun/wind burn even in their mature state from the hot Perth summers, the Bismark with is blue/grey fronds dosen't suffer from this.
The previous owner planted Cocos (5 off) and a Washingtonia Cotton Tail. I suffered for years with the huge and constant seed pods being produced by these Cocos palms along with them always being a very messy palm same with the Cotton Tail. About 4 years ago I felled all of the noxious palms. But even today the young Cocos plant wants to start growing from seed previouly dropped by its mum.
The Cocos, otherwise known as the Queen Palm (Syagrus romanzoffiana), is a listed weed in Australia. It's a particular problem in areas where there are flying foxes, which spread the seeds, even though the spines on the palm can damage their wings - it must taste pretty good!
I'm going against the grain here. I think Cocos palms are quite attractive, although I have never grown one to the seed stage. If they seed, chop them off, what's the problem?
I dare you to do it. Then you'll see. If bloody Cocos pretty much killed the palm trend in landscaping. Just like ignorant and poorly trained lawn mowing contractors are killing the domestic turf image now.
At what stage (year) do they seed?
It varies. Summer flower. Takes anywhere between 5 and 15 years for them to mature enough to fruit (flower isn't the problem)
Never seen one in 'fruit.'
Once they fruit the fruit drops and ferments on the ground. Dogs love them. They get drunk on them but whole mess smells like vomit.
They also attract Rats.
The flower pods are pretty lethal looking.
They also attract Rats.
The flower pods are pretty lethal looking.
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