Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design Re: How To- Installing a rain sensor (or rain and freeze sensor) 21Apr 15, 2009 9:50 pm Ok you just made my day when you mentioned PC wireless operation irritrol do a good one based on the Kwikdial. Very good to operate. http://www.irritrolsystems.com/pccontrol/index.html For domestic irrigation systems to work you will need some good water pressure. Will your recycled water taps have that? Sorry not too experienced with recycled water and water tanks because these are not used much here in Perth due to their impact in our deep sands on our ground water and wetlands that are scattered throughout the city. As far as going under the slab after they have done it you are pushing poo up a hill. Try get them to drop a few pipes down for future wiring or what ever. They don't usually mind. If you plan on a garden there, you'll need it. In the photo it is at the front of the property and this was the closest location to the water meter available. Behind the camera was a large retaining wall dropping down to the road. It was coincidence that it is near the tap. Of those three valves there is one supplying water to the rear (which you can see). I had to bend the pipe around some concrete belonging to the clothes line. It wasn't ideal but unknowns do arise. That pipe also goes forward to a small section behind the camera. As do the other two which ended up coming toward the camera and off to the right. They hadn't been glued in yet. You can use black poly after the valves but I prefer to use PVC. It is still flexible enough to bend as shown. I should also mention that when you run systems off taps they tend not to work out so well. The tap itself can restrict the flow. Being recycled water it will be vital you use a disc filter like this. The insides look like this... They need to be cleaned out regularly. That is what is pictured standing above the ground. Also plan where your controller will be mounted. I do suggest in a garage, so make sure you have a power point there ready or have an electrician to hard wire the controller for you. The wires going to your valves will need a way through to the outside. The Electrician may be able to get some wire down the wall through the wall space and out lower down to the outside. Then all you need to do is connect more using connectors later or like I do sometimes is wrap the new wire very very well to the old wire useing a lot of electrical tape and a good length of the two wires joined. Then I slowly pull it through and get the wire I want to the controller. Once outside I suggest running the wires along under the pipe taped every metre or two with some electrical tape to the underside so that shovels etc don't cut them in the future. You can wire the valve wires yourself because they are only 24 volt. You buy it like trailer wire. (In fact I use it as trailer wire , it's cheaper and better) Best to connect it all using 3M gel connectors which just crimp on with pliers. twist the ends of the wire, shove them in the connector and crimp with the pliers. weather proof and sound Don't hesitate to ask more questions if you want Re: How To- Installing a rain sensor (or rain and freeze sensor) 22Apr 15, 2009 10:28 pm Hey Fu, I will make sure we get an extra power point inside the garage (can never have enough inside a garage) for the irrigation controller. You totally made my day by showing me that pc controller, i need to find a good company that supplies them here. Our landscaper is very old school (not very technologically inclined but a great landscaper). I am going to ask him if he can sub-contract out the irrigation install to another supplier if he can't do it - or ask him if I can assist in installing to reduce his labour costs (he has done irrigation systems but he normally does the ones which use timers attached to taps). Water pressure on the recycled tap should be identical to the standard drinking water taps as it is not connected to rainwater, etc. From what I've seen at my inlaws house it is identical to pressure as their normal drinking water. I can ask for a terminated (capped off) recycled water outlet to be added anywhere on my plans, so i will make sure we get one added to the side of the garage for the purpose of the irrigation (irrigation controller on internal wall of garage, recycled water line on external wall in same location). If you don't mind, I have posted up a picture of our dwelling/house and where I'm thinking of getting the trench/irrigation controller. Can you let me know if you see any show stoppers or have any recommendations on which way to run the irrigation? I am planning to take 2-3 weeks of leave when the house finishes so i can do save some money and do somethings like irrigation myself (if it's not way over my head) hehe. Thumbnail (click to see full size image): Re: How To- Installing a rain sensor (or rain and freeze sensor) 23Apr 15, 2009 11:47 pm I'd be inclined to get a pipe in for wireing (elecrtical conduit or 20mm retic PVC pipe will be fine.) under the drive. A pipe for a station to do verge if it will have plants or lawn, a pipe for front yard, and a pipe for the NE side of the property if you want garden there. You would be running at least two pipes to the back. Can you get recycled water to the SW side near the garage? I sometimes also ad into the layout some branch lines to places where feature pots may go. Then I just cap them off. That way there are outlets ready for irrigating your pots I use a 20mm female threaded coupling and cap it with a black poly cap. Very handy for the years ahead. Re: Irrigation questions answered 24Apr 18, 2009 6:56 pm Hey I checked out a heap of stuff on grey water systems. like I said I don't have much experience or knowledge with grey water systems, we just don't use them so much here in Perth but more for enviro reasons. It is becoming more common but done a bit different. You will need to use the purple pipe not the brown as I suggested. It has a different dripper design to handle more impurity in the water. Again Netafim is the brand to go for. The filters are a bit different too. A pump will also be required. The controllers will not be able to work the way a regular one does. A special grey water controller is needed. It will automatically operate when there is grey water moving through. http://www.awws.com.au/grey_water_reuse.htm http://www.enviro-friendly.com/gator-pro-brochure.PDF that is if you will be getting greywater from your home. Some new subdivisions have grey water on tap. all grey water goes out the property and returns via the purple line. A communal grey water system. In that case you will need the set up I first posted but using the purple drip line not brown. Re: Irrigation questions answered 25Apr 18, 2009 10:17 pm Hey Fu, We are in a recycled water area so we have a recycled water line running to our property provided by Sydney Water which operates the same as our normal drinking water line. I have made myself little notes about what I want in my system and I am trying to get a chance to go to a irrigation shop and show them scale diagrams of my land and ask them to assist in providing a quote for the system (and ask whether they do irrigation installations). We will make sure we use the purple drip line. Just want to make sure my budget doesn't run out for my irrigation as I will definitely need it as I am normally too lazy to go out and water Again, thanks for all the great info! Nav Re: Irrigation questions answered 26Feb 03, 2011 10:33 pm Rather than start a new thread I thought I would give this one a bit of a revival since it has plenty of good info in it already My question is regarding drip watering a lawn using a bore. Im in Piara Waters (next to Jandakot) and considering putting in a Bore when we're ready to put down our lawn. Is it more expensive/difficult with a bore rather than off mains or is it straight forward? Cheers! Re: Irrigation questions answered 27Feb 03, 2011 10:50 pm Far easier because no special expensive valave is needed to protect the domestic water supply You will need to be using the black netafim subsurface pipe (its for bore water) Also a high flow pressure reducer and a canister disk filter is going to be needed. If you can get the irritrol total control controller or the Hunter X Core (as its called now) controller. Use jar top valves (the grey ones) The grey ones have 3 major brands that are interchangeable with each other so repairs are easy as All wire joins done with 3m connectors. They are silicon filled and years later the connections will be as good as the day you did them unlike twisting and taping. Try find a fault in 5 years... no way and one very expensive repair potentially. I don't personally go down the subsurface under lawns inmost cases. MP's and Rain Bird Gear drives is what I would use. Bores, absolutely subsurface. It is the use of a very special valve that makes it expensive for scheme water. Avoid the use of the valve and god knows what you will be showing yourself under and drinking. Re: Irrigation questions answered 28Feb 03, 2011 10:52 pm Oh and with subsurface, it's important to get a fertigation unit installed also. That way you can run seasol, powerfeed, molasses through the subsurface irrigation automatically regular fertilising isn't that effective and can do damage. Re: Irrigation questions answered 29Feb 03, 2011 10:55 pm Fu Manchu Oh and with subsurface, it's important to get a fertigation unit installed also. That way you can run seasol, powerfeed, molasses through the subsurface irrigation automatically regular fertilising isn't that effective and can do damage. Excellent news, cheers Would I need to get a fertigation unit anyway to put that chemical through which prevents drip blockage ? Re: Irrigation questions answered 30Feb 03, 2011 11:06 pm Nope. That comes in the filter. The plastic is impregnated with it. The filter is brown and costs about $100. Lasts a few years. Standard filter for gardens etc is black and costs about $30. High flow valve will be about $30-50 Re: Irrigation questions answered 31Feb 03, 2011 11:57 pm Here is a fertigation set up for a domestic situation http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/kk321/FuManchu5ltr/irrigation/IMG_0541.jpg Re: Irrigation questions answered 33Feb 04, 2011 12:12 am They are affordable. What they do is needed. It pays for itself for the time it will save you Re: Irrigation questions answered 34Feb 04, 2011 2:32 pm I'm sold on subsurface irrigation, but my question is what type? I have about 200msq of lawn area (well it will be by the time I've finished with it). It will be planted out with natural grasses - possibly Weeping Grass seed, Microlaena stipoides (griffith). It's clay soil, over the top of rocks.. There isn't a lot of topsoil. My plan is to rip the soil, add gypsum, lay top soil over the top. I just spoke with a very unsympathetic guy at the plumbing store. So I need advice on what I would need to include in my price list for subsurface irrigation. I'm guessing I'd need a filter, dripper line. I like the idea of the fertlization box, but I don't think I'd need it with native grasses - or do I? Thoughts? Ideas? list of what to ask for would ask for. Re: Irrigation questions answered 35Feb 04, 2011 3:13 pm Well don't go down the gypsum path till you have read the threads on lawn prep (same for gardens) and that gypsum isn't effective on all clay soils. It also won't begin to take effect for years, not days as many believe. Don't layer soils. You read about that. Netafim. Netafim all the way. Have a look at their website. I am sorry but a little stretched for time right now. Re: Irrigation questions answered 36Feb 09, 2011 5:28 pm I understand that the use of gypsum depends on the soil/rocks beneath and in some areas it's better to use dolomite. I thought it was important to rip the soil underneath, to ensure the lawn roots had easy access to the existing soil? I have laid netafirm before. thanks for the advice. Re: Irrigation questions answered 37Feb 10, 2011 12:30 am I reckon gypsum is a waste of time but I mention it as so many posters post about it. The organic acids in both liquid composts and regular composts do a far superior job to gypsum at breaking the clay and making the soil more friable in the longer term and shorter term. Re: Irrigation questions answered 38Feb 16, 2011 12:09 pm Fu - I thought I'd ask about irrigation for the planned jungle and fernery areas (cos I know how much it annoys you when people don't do them right!). This area for the most part will be down the side of the house (fernery - enclosed by the house on one side and fence on the other - 3x8m) and another area at the top of this that will have fence on one side, but is already planted with an established camellia and feijoa (roughly 4.5x6m). This whole area slopes down towards the road, is moist and free draining. It's sandy loam. The fernery will be completely protected from sun, but the front of the jungle area will get hot sun. It will be heavily planted, with sun loving plants to the front, protecting those that prefer bright indirect light inside. There is shade provided from above by the Blackwood, Messmate Stringybark, Camellia, Feijoa and a random prunus (no idea what & likely to be taken down) and, coupled with the house & fence, this will help to reduce evaporation and create a nice little microclimate in my garden Now, the type of planting we're looking at will be mostly indigenous to this area (moist temperate), but some will be rainforest plants and we will also use epiphytes & lithophytes. I have a good local source of ferns, dendrobiums, epiphytes & cold tolerant bromelliads. For this type of planting, I want humidity. The protection from above, the sides and the thick planting will retain moisture in the air, but it would benefit from having a sprinkler system overhead I think, to provide 'rain' when required. I'm also looking at a subsoil system that provides moisture direct to the roots for when the weather is too hot and windy in particular. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions (other than 'don't try a jungle style planting'!!)? Re: Irrigation questions answered 39Feb 17, 2011 12:52 am Subsoil will be plenty. The humidity from above ground retic will on;ly last as long as the retic is on plus 30-60 imns after. Hardly worth the expense or water. Just do the right things to the soil, get the right micro climates established with plants and the rest comes together so well I'd be working on that soil a little even though it is sandy loam. Re: Irrigation questions answered 40Feb 17, 2011 12:51 pm Oh, we will be working on the soil, don't worry. I will do a thread all about it so I can ask you lots of questions in the proper context We're quite likely going to rig up something of our own, utilising water barrels / wheelie bins, the relevant tubing for the grey water etc and some cheap submersible aquarium/pond pumps. The slope would mean that the pump may not be necessary, but will help get good flow through the tubing. If I used a strong enough pump, I could also use it to run the hose to reach the veggies when need be (they'll be included in a separate loop at a later point). I know there's an existing system in Vic that you can buy called a Grey Water Gator, but frankly I've got better places to spend the 400 odd dollars that would cost me and could do it for less than half the price. Might not look as pretty, but it'll do the job Have you any experience of similar systems? Would love to know of any issues people have encountered when doing this type of project. 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