Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design 1 Sep 22, 2010 5:31 pm I am getting older and lazier = smarter I read Fu referring to fertigation, and how easy it could be, but could find nothing on how to achieve this I run stack of Hunter MP2000 Rotators, have plenty of rain water in tanks and great water pressure and was thinking of making my life easy. At the moment, I am applying seasol, powerfeed and molasses using the seasol hose on containers. Anyone have any ideas how do this this? Products, costs or DIY effort. Thanks in advance BTW, molasses makes things have a lovely green sheen. The way I mix the molasses with water is as follows: 9 litre bucket soup ladel power drill paint stirrer I add a couple of big dollops of mollases, add about 4 litres of water and then use the power drill with the paint stirrer to dilute, then top up the water and use the seasol hose on containers that I have previously horded. Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 2Sep 23, 2010 4:40 pm I am pretty sure I have seen solutions for this. but if you are a DIYr kinda guy surely a t junction on a main irrigation pipe where you can attach a large container and adjust the flow of liquid fertiliser entering the system. You may need to play around with the pressure to ensure it enters at the right speed. Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 4Sep 23, 2010 7:42 pm Mate it is an easy question The very best available to domestic consumers is this puppy ... "Fertile Earth Smart Feeder" http://www.fertileearth.com.au/products/ These are a very common way of managing nutrients in both domestic gardens and also in commercial applications. You can use these also for applying molasses Just dilute it a fair bit and away you go As far as using products other than seasol and powerfeed, do your research very well! I would suggest only the use of those as they will not clog sprinkler heads or sprayers, nor hamper the effectiveness of subsurface systems. Something of very great importance is you ABSOLUTELY MUST have a special valve installed before the master valve which stops these products from contaminating your household water supply and that of your neighbours. It is called a dual check valve.Installed by a plumber it will cost between $50 and $100 for installation and supply. In some circumstances a RPZ valve must be installed and that has to be certified by a licensed plumber and inspected each year. Check with your local Water board to find out which type you can have. A dual check valve For Perth folks, give Merrik at WA Waterwise a call or visit his website http://www.wawaterwisesolutions.com.au/ He has been in the irrigation business since I was in nappies. Here is some OK links for other fertigation system set ups http://www.earthandwater.com.au/pdfs/Fe ... ystems.pdf http://www.agric.wa.gov.au/objtwr/impor ... f03501.pdf http://www.growcom.com.au/_uploads/2217 ... gement.pdf Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ * Oh and take note of the mulch used in this shot Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 6Sep 27, 2010 11:41 pm For gods sake make sure it doesn't get into your water supply! Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 7Feb 04, 2011 5:51 pm Fertigation! Sounds like a very good time saver. I am about to put in my retic and would love to have some sort of fertigation for the seasol/powerfeed/molasses. The Smartfeeder looks like it could fit the bill but I am a bit concerned at this from their website: Quote: Can you use ordinary liquid plant foods and wetting agents with SmartFeeder? LiquidLife products are highly concentrated to match the low 8000:1 dilution rate of SmartFeeder. Typical hose-on products have dilution rates of around 30:1 so are less concentrated, and when applied through SmartFeeder will have little or no effect on your garden. If this is true, then maybe something like the photo that Fu posted would be better, as you might be able to put in something to control the rate at which the seasol/pf is being sucked up? If this is correct, then Fu, can you please list the parts I will need to replicate what is in your photo? Of course only if you have the time, which I know is very precious to you. Advise welcome! Cheers! Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 8Feb 04, 2011 6:04 pm You really would be best ducking down to your irrigation shop and buying a domestic set up. You can see in the pic the tap in between that shuts off the flow between the two pipes. The lids flip over to push into the fertigation unit. They really are brilliant. They gotta say stuff like that so you don't go and swap their product for someone else's These are excellent for distributing molasses. Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 9Feb 04, 2011 6:19 pm Thanks for your reply Fu. Their quote: Quote: One three litre bottle of LiquidLife will last up to three months, depending on your garden size. Just a bit worried that 500ml Seasol + 250ml Powerfeed will take a month to disperse! Kinda not ideal when the mix is suppose to be dispersed in 10mins on a hose. If you don't think this will be the case then I'll follow your advise and get a domestic setup from an irrigation shop. So Smartfeeder isn't the only one out there? Thanks Fu. Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 10Feb 05, 2011 6:39 pm Having investigated these today they are approximate $310 from total Eden stores in WA ---- Building in Banksia Grove We have keys - 31st March 2011 Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 11Feb 05, 2011 8:58 pm Ouch! Thanks for that sidewinder. Taking that into account, I think I will try to replicate what was in Fu's photo. Just gotta figure out the parts now. Cheers. Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 12Feb 05, 2011 10:31 pm It might be a project for next year I think!! Will spend the $$$ on the prep and plants, then worry about aux systems. In the mean time just use the spray bottles!! ---- Building in Banksia Grove We have keys - 31st March 2011 Re: How can I inject powerfeed, seasol into my sprinklers 13Oct 26, 2014 10:47 pm Sorry for pulling a necromancer on this topic/thread, but hopefully there is experience that can be shared by someone. Unfortunately I don't have experience with venturi systems (yet) and so I have few a questions about the photo from FU showing the configuration of a "bypass venturi" with an "in-line/main-line valve". From my understanding there are various possible configurations for venturi systems (bypass, serial, parallel, pump assisted, etc.) and selection of which to apply requires consideration of what the water pressure differential is between the inlet and the outlet, which is effectively what causes the venturi to "suck up" the fertiliser. Now, if I understand it correctly, you could potentially use a venturi injector in an in-line/main-line configuration (i.e. directly) provided the pressure loss caused by the venturi itself doesn't impede the operation of the actual irrigation system? Right? Continuing my assumptions, if there is too much of a pressure loss when used in-line, one of the alternatives would be like the above pictured where there is a "bypass venturi" (ie. it bypasses the main-line where the ball valve is) and forces the flow via the venturi. Hopefully I'm not on too much of a tangent here, but am I correct in understanding that the valve in the mainline would typically be used in a partially closed position to still allow pressure through the mainline? This would then still have the venturi operate but the pressure from the partially closed main-line helps to alleviate the implicit pressure loss from the venturi segment? Right? Is that how it works? What happens when you don't want to inject anything - will water not still flow through the venturi unit... oh wait right, that's why you've got that pluggable solution - you just disconnect the two blue-capped bits? What I'm driving at is I'm trying to figure out whether I can use a 25mm venturi (like this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-Irrigation-Venturi-Fertilizer-Injectors-Device-Water-Tube-Switch-Filter-Kit-/161009190553?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item257ce54699) in-line on my 25mm (blue poly) main-line pipe or if I need to use the bypass method (I have space constraints for the latter which might mean some more work ) Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Thanks! I use Tramex moisture meter and it will tell me instantly if the wall is cement sheet or plaster or masonite but most people dont have the equipment. 5 7094 the step up is 30mm and wanting it to be flat . how much does the concrete have to be lowered .we plan on removing bath and lenghten shower and adding seat. the old bath… 0 11838 8 6156 |