Browse Forums Landscape & Garden Design 1 Apr 16, 2016 9:37 pm Hi, Just would like to start off by saying I can't be more green at landscaping so it is likely that I will be asking some stupid questions. The current problem is I have soil, shrubbs and garden bed against both the front and back external wall of the house. When I purchased the property, the building & pest inspector identified an issue in the front where the soil on the outside is higher than the habitable internal floor so excavating is recommended in the front, it is also recommended to install a concrete footpath that divers stormwater away from the building. My current plan is to pull out all shrubbs (as it is a termite hazard), excavate the front so outside soil is not higher than inside floor and lay some kind of artificial 1m wide walk path against the front and back of the house. My questions are: 1. What sort of material should I consider for the walk path? I have been recommended concrete but think it doesn't go with the look of the house and it may crack over time (I think there is some movement in the soil). Instead, I am considering stone gravel or mulch but leaning toward gravel. A pest control guy also recommended gravel as it tend to reduce chance of termite attack. What would you use if you were me? Price is another consideration, the concrete quote came to be around $ 3K including shrubb removal, not sure if gravel laying will be cheaper or more expensive than concrete work. 2. Should I hire a structure engineer for consultation before pulling out the shrubbs? I am concerned given how close it is to the house (almost next to the external wall), disturbing it will cause movement in soil. The external wall is already showing a few hairline cracks here and there (the building is about 50 years old), the building and pest guy stated it is not a big concern but I don't want to make the issue worse. They are not massive shrubbs, the biggest one is upto 3m tall, rest are less than 2m tall. Have anyone pulled out shrubbs that close to the house and what are your experiences in terms of affecting foundation of the house? 3. Can anyone recommend a good landscaper in Brisbane area? Thanks in advance. Ed Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 3Apr 17, 2016 10:15 am eddie9874 When I purchased the property, the building & pest inspector identified an issue in the front where the soil on the outside is higher than the habitable internal floor so excavating is recommended in the front, it is also recommended to install a concrete footpath that divers stormwater away from the building. Does the house have weep holes or vents? If so, you should have the soil removed so that the finished surface level below the weep holes or vents is regulatory commensurate. The regulations are drafted for a reason and they state: "The height of a DPC, or flashing serving as a DPC, (see Figure 3.3.4.1), must be not less than— (i) 150 mm above the adjacent ground level; or (ii) 75 mm above the finished surface level of adjacent paved, concreted or landscaped areas that slope away from the wall (see Figure 3.3.4.1); or Explanatory information: 150 mm clearance between the DPC and adjacent ground level reduces the risk of the effectiveness of the DPC being affected by changes in the surface level. Where changes in surface level are less likely to occur, such as where the adjacent surface is finished with paving, concreting or landscaping, the height of the DPC above that surface may be reduced to 75 mm. When also protected from the weather by a carport, verandah or the like the height of the DPC may be reduced to 50 mm." If you are in a low rainfall intensity area, then further reductions in the height of the damp proof course apply. eddie9874 1. What sort of material should I consider for the walk path? I have been recommended concrete but think it doesn't go with the look of the house and it may crack over time (I think there is some movement in the soil). Instead, I am considering stone gravel or mulch but leaning toward gravel. A pest control guy also recommended gravel as it tend to reduce chance of termite attack. Gravel and mulch are permeable, termites and cockroaches also love mulch. You may also have to consider installing drainage on a concrete path's perimeter. eddie9874 2. Should I hire a structure engineer for consultation before pulling out the shrubbs? From your description, I can see no need to do so. Just try to remove as much of the roots as you can. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 4Apr 17, 2016 12:27 pm goody59 If I was you and knowing what I know, I would place a concrete apron around the house that has a recommended fall away from the house as per inspectors recommendations. Thanks. I am also concerned that concrete will change the moisture level of the soil given the soil used to host plants and get watered, if replaced by concrete, it will probably not see any water at all and cause the ground to shrink, which lead to slab heave. Forgot to mention, the house is built in the 1970s on a concrete slab Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 5Apr 17, 2016 1:02 pm As building and timber pest inspector myself I never recommend gravel because surface water will just pass through and collect at soil, leading to permanent dampness and conditions suitable for termite infestation. Furthermore, gravel, unless it is graded granite "Granitguard" can allow concealed termite entry. Ground shrinkage causes subsidence, not slab heave. Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 6Apr 17, 2016 1:28 pm Thanks for the detailed response. Quote: Does the house have weep holes or vents? If so, you should have the soil removed so that the finished surface level below the weep holes or vents is regulatory commensurate. The regulations are drafted for a reason and they state: [i]"The height of a DPC, or flashing serving as a DPC, (see Figure 3.3.4.1), must be not less than— (i) 150 mm above the adjacent ground level; or (ii) 75 mm above the finished surface level of adjacent paved, concreted or landscaped areas that slope away from the wall (see Figure 3.3.4.1); or Spot on, the house is brick veneer and it has weep holes. This is one of the problem with front of the house where the soil need excavating - the soil is covering some of the weep holes! Situation is a lot better at the back, all weep holes are 150mm above ground level. Quote: Gravel and mulch are impermeable, termites and cockroaches also love mulch. You may also have to consider installing drainage on a concrete path's perimeter. Sorry, not really getting my head around this, so gravel not really recommended because water can't get through? eddie9874 2. Should I hire a structure engineer for consultation before pulling out the shrubbs? Quote: From your description, I can see no need to do so. Just try to remove as much of the roots as you can. I see. I was intending to leave some of the roots if they are too difficult to remove, would that be detrimental? Thanks Ed Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 7Apr 17, 2016 1:33 pm building-expert As building and timber pest inspector myself I never recommend gravel because surface water will just pass through and collect at soil, leading to permanent dampness and conditions suitable for termite infestation. Furthermore, gravel, unless it is graded granite "Granitguard" can allow concealed termite entry. Ground shrinkage causes subsidence, not slab heave. Cheers. What about laid bricks around the house such as this: https://www.google.com.au/search?q=bric ... BKWtCUM%3A I am just concerned about cement cracking due to ground movement because the cement driveway has cracked quite a bit Also, I had chemical termite barrier setup around the house just 3 months ago and was told the product (termidor) they used would last several years (7 by memory) then another tree removalist told me that is fairy tale, all products on the market would only last 6 month at most and I'd just have to rely on luck than treatment to avoid termite attack... How true is this? Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 8Apr 17, 2016 2:06 pm Very true! It's down to lady luck. I have seen many neglected homes that could have had termites but didn't and on occasion, a well-kept home that did. It's down to minimising your risk and vigilance. Even if you are hit, damage may be minimal if detected early. That is why regular inspections are a must. I don't like chemicals although sometimes they are needed but would always recommend physical termite protection and always recommend good property maintenance. Foremost Building Expert in Australia,assisting with building problems/disputes, building stage inspections,pre-contract review advice for peace of mind 200 blogs http://www.buildingexpert.net.au/blog Re: Garden against house, want to replace, need advice 9Apr 19, 2016 4:56 pm eddie9874 Quote: Gravel and mulch are impermeable, termites and cockroaches also love mulch. Sorry, not really getting my head around this, so gravel not really recommended because water can't get through? Oops! Sorry, wrong word. I have corrected my original post. It should be permeable. A touch of old timers disease...or something sounding like that...I forget. eddie9874 eddie9874 2. Should I hire a structure engineer for consultation before pulling out the shrubbs? Quote: From your description, I can see no need to do so. Just try to remove as much of the roots as you can. I see. I was intending to leave some of the roots if they are too difficult to remove, would that be detrimental? Shrub roots are not very big, just pull out what you can. They won't grow. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Good on you for having a go I am the opposite of DIY (so will pay a builder) - our vibe is industrial/simple so current thinking is 150mm concrete and then internally is… 3 3203 6 5494 DIY, Home Maintenance & Repair I'm in WA and our sandy soils make drainage a bit easier but this is what I'd be doing. Dig down to your footings and let the wall dry out. Clean it all well by brushing… 1 6222 |