Please help!!! Depth of fridge cavity!

alabaster · Apr 09, 2008 12:02 am

Our kitchen is being installed right now, and everything looks great EXCEPT a couple of things that have got me fretting! We've left messages with the kitchen guy and hope to speak to him tomorrow.

The dishwasher and fridge cavities are adjacent to each other, and both are 580 mm deep. From my measurements, the dishwasher might protrude a little (or the hoses at the back might be squished a bit), but should still be level with the 600mm deep benchtop.

But the fridge is going to protrude at least 100mm - 150mm if the recommended clearance behind the fridge is given.

Is this odd that the fridge cavity is the same depth as the 580mm-deep floor cabinets? If not, what is a typical minimum fridge cavity depth? The fridge isn't in a corner - it's between a bench and a 300mm broom cupboard (which is in a corner), so it would sort of jut out near the middle of the room.

Please help!!!

dna · Apr 09, 2008 1:09 am

For our place, we increased it to 700mm for the fridge, but in the original plans, the fridge space is only 600mm deep so I don't think what you have is necessarily odd.

Strumer · Apr 09, 2008 7:22 am

600mm deep has been the standard for quite a while, but now that a lot of fridges are being built deeper the norm is moving towards 700mm.

We do nearly all of our kitchens with 700 deep cavities these days.

Don't forget that a fridge has to protrude from the cavity enough for the door(s) to be able to swing open.

If this is a problem for you make sure it gets addressed now.
The broom cupboard next to it will (should) also have to be moved out to match the cavity for a cleaner look.
The cabinetmaker/ installer can put some packing behind the cabinet to facillitate this.
He won't be happy, and there might be a delay as he will need to cut some new end panels but it is your kitchen and if this is going to bother you you may as well try and get it fixed now.

Cheers,

Earl

stonecutter1309 · Apr 09, 2008 8:12 am

Could it also depend on how your fridge is supposed to sit?

We saw some fridges on the weekend that were meant to sit "flush" - close in level to the cabinetry. Others were marked as sitting "proud" - in front of cabinetry.

oznow · Apr 09, 2008 9:52 am

As suggested, 700 is probably the way togo.

ozn

Shady · Apr 09, 2008 10:47 am

Fridges have always been in the >700mm deep catagory but the ***/cheap way of building kitchens is to just put them in a 600mm deep space.
As strumer said you need to let the fridges sit proud of the end panels so the door can swing open. It does depend on the hinging as to how far out from the cabinetry they can need to sit.
I've always design fridge spaces at 700mm deep where possible, it just looks better. From memory some of the fully intergrated fridges need to be in cabinets that are 715mm-750mm deep too.

To answer you question

alabaster

Is this odd that the fridge cavity is the same depth as the 580mm-deep floor cabinets?

Nope, but it is the quick/cheap/*** way out. Just about all the display homes you see will come std with a 600mm deep fridge space.

alabaster

If not, what is a typical minimum fridge cavity depth? !!

Typically for a 'builders package' kitchen you'll get the 600mm. For a 'designer' kitchen you'll get 700mm

alabaster · Apr 09, 2008 7:37 pm

Thanks everyone for your input! (And as a Sydneysider Shady, I really wish we had contacted you when we designed - but we engaged our guy before I found this site!) It's interesting that the 600mm cavity is seen as "lower-end", as the kitchen was not a builder's package, and not the cheapest.

We have expressed our disappointment at the situation, and he's replied well, you saw the plan! And we did, and it's as designed. It's just that the depth of the fridge wasn't something we considered - just assumed it'd look the same as it did before. That's the galling part - we spent so long prior to signing up, over multiple meetings, defining every part of the kitchen, and he was very patient and explained all sorts of options that we (as first time new kitchen owners) wouldn't have considered. So when this came up, it seemed just so incongruous! It was a real "What the...?!?!" moment!

He has come up with a figure of $400 to supply and install a replacement 700mm deep poly panel between the fridge cavity and the bench, and fix up the bulkhead (currently installed, without cornicing, and raw MDF at the moment). He says that figure is what he has to pay for the materials and the spraying, and he's wearing the cost of changing it. Is this figure reasonable? It seemed quite steep to me, but my judgement is clouded by the red haze!!!

ChrisL · Apr 09, 2008 7:54 pm

alabaster,
Not sure exactly what the job entails. But to give you some idea, the price of a coloured panel (2.4 x 0.7m) is roughly $175.
Chris

alabaster · Apr 09, 2008 8:03 pm

ChrisL

alabaster,
Not sure exactly what the job entails. But to give you some idea, the price of a coloured panel (2.4 x 0.7m) is roughly $175.
Chris

Thanks Chris. It'd be a 2550 x 700 polyurethaned panel, and a replacement piece of raw MDF about 200 x 700. I guess the work required would be:

- Detaching bulkhead "frame" from top of cabinets
- Reconstructing bulkhead for new depth
- Detaching fridge cavity unit and broom cupboard from wall and adjacent floor cabinet, move to new depth
- Replace old panel with new
- Reattach to wall
- Reattach bulkhead

I was expecting/hoping there'd be some concession on his part.

Paula · Apr 09, 2008 8:39 pm

Is there room for you to recess the back panel? I mean can you push the back wall back rather than do all that work and have it not even with your bench?

ChrisL · Apr 09, 2008 11:00 pm

alabaster,
IMO $400 sounds like a pretty good price, esp if cabinetmaker doesn't take shortcuts. By this I mean, after completion, you will not see any joints/packers that normally shouldn't be there.
Even if you DIY, probably not going to save much.
Chris

alabaster · Apr 09, 2008 11:34 pm

Paula

Is there room for you to recess the back panel? I mean can you push the back wall back rather than do all that work and have it not even with your bench?

I wish there was - it would be the perfect solution. Unfortunately it's a single brick wall behind, backing onto our daughter's bedroom.

ChrisL

alabaster,
IMO $400 sounds like a pretty good price, esp if cabinetmaker doesn't take shortcuts. By this I mean, after completion, you will not see any joints/packers that normally shouldn't be there.
Even if you DIY, probably not going to save much.
Chris

Thanks for that; it makes me feel less ripped-off! It's annoying that he's indicated that the $400 is the material cost price that he will incur, and said that he'd absorb the labour charge, when it looks like he may be telling a wee porkie.

I just tend to obsess about these things, even though in the grand scheme of things it's really so trivial. However I know that I'll soon forget the cost and appreciate the appearance for much longer.

Shady · Apr 09, 2008 11:37 pm

$400 seems pretty much on the money for a poly kitchen, but i dont think he's giving it to you at his cost, but it's still quite reasonable. I'd say it just a question of will it bother you that much ($400 worth).

Rachelle · Apr 09, 2008 11:47 pm

I think $400 sounds really reasonable