Browse Forums Finishing Touch 1 Jul 21, 2010 2:18 pm I painted some timber doors (probably varnished) recently with an undercoat and then white enamel paint. I'm rather disappointed now as they are looking very yellow. I know that enamel paints can yellow with time but this is only about 6 months. I get the feeling that some of the colour in the timber has leached through even though I used an undercoat. They were so nice when they were freshly painted! I'm not keen on using water based gloss paints as I think they don't wear as well and are more difficult to get a good finish with. Any tips? I feel like they need repainting but I don't want to do it unless I'm sure that the yellow colour won't bleed through again. Is there some product I can use to stop this happening? Any advice would be great! Re: Enamel Paint Question 3Jul 21, 2010 3:37 pm royalblue I might have a suggestion. But so i don't waste more of my time, please add your location to your profile. Ash. OP - did you sand back the door before you painted it? If it was varnished before you painted then it's possible the varnish is leeching/sweating through the paint causing the discolouration. Re: Enamel Paint Question 4Jul 21, 2010 6:01 pm Are you talking about water-based acrylic or water-based enamels that you were unhappy with? I used one of the new-gen water-based enamels on my skirtings and am very happy with the whiteness and durability Re: Enamel Paint Question 5Jul 21, 2010 6:04 pm Engada royalblue I might have a suggestion. But so i don't waste more of my time, please add your location to your profile. Ash. OP - did you sand back the door before you painted it? If it was varnished before you painted then it's possible the varnish is leeching/sweating through the paint causing the discolouration. Engada….I have removed your first comment, as I don’t think it was necessary. Internal and External Building and Colour Consultant Online - Worldwide http://www.denovoconcepts.com Re: Enamel Paint Question 6Jul 21, 2010 8:36 pm I did a light sand of the doors but the so called expert at our local paint place said that the undercoat would stop the colour leaching through. I thought that all water based paints were the same... I've used water based acrylic gloss and enamels and I'm pretty sure they had the same consistency and overall look. I agree that they stay really white but painting with enamels is so much nicer. I find they are glossier, more hard wearing and nice to apply. Just disappointed with the yellowing! I'm in SA. Thanks! Re: Enamel Paint Question 7Jul 22, 2010 9:48 pm Hi beckandbubs Unfortunately most undercoats do not have enough sealing properties, particularly water based undercoats, and you really should have been advised to use an oil based sealer over the varnish.... and it gets worse...if you go to the trouble of applying another coat of oil enamel the same problem will come back to bite you. Best to use the Zinser range of stain sealer blockers as an undercoat over varnish. Next time you're in the store let the so called expert know. Use the Zinser oil based sealer or shellac based one as an undercoat then apply another coat of oil based gloss enamel Re: Enamel Paint Question 8Jul 23, 2010 1:16 pm Thanks Scotthas... that's what I needed to know. I'm happy (sort of) to do another coat, starting with a sealer coat and then enamel over the top. I wish I was given the right advice to start with. So much time wasted!! Re: Enamel Paint Question 9Jul 25, 2010 9:53 am I can highly recommend the Zinsser BIN shellac Primer. I've just used it on an old stained and varnished pine bookcase. I haven't had a chance to put the top coats of white acrylic on it yet, as it got too cold for painting in the garage, but I don't expect to see any leaching of colour through at all. My Dad has also used it in the past on various things to hide stains and mould, and has never had any leaching afterwards. It's great as it comes in either a spray can or tin, and either enamel or acrylic can be used after it. I did spray on 2 coats to get a good even coverage to begin with. Good luck! Henley - Wilshire Mk 3 ... I love my house!! Site start: 4th Feb 09 Handover: 10th Sep 09 Blog: http://stormygirlscastle.blogspot.com/ Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=7166 Re: Enamel Paint Question 10Aug 06, 2010 11:49 pm Stormy is on the money Zinnsser BIN primer (this has a red label) One thing with enamel is if it is does not receive UV light it will yellow quicker than something painted the same time I went outside once. The graphics were alright, but the gameplay sucked! Settlement:22nd June Slab:27th August Frame:16th Sept Bricked:21st Oct Roof:24th Nov Linings HANDOVER23rd March! Re: Enamel Paint Question 12Aug 15, 2010 10:11 pm yeah no problems use the red label one though as it is the best at sealing stains I went outside once. The graphics were alright, but the gameplay sucked! Settlement:22nd June Slab:27th August Frame:16th Sept Bricked:21st Oct Roof:24th Nov Linings HANDOVER23rd March! Re: Enamel Paint Question 14Aug 15, 2010 10:39 pm it is not cheap considering it is and undercoat I think it is round $35 Do the architraves have a finish over the stain?? like clear gloss or clear satin?? I went outside once. The graphics were alright, but the gameplay sucked! Settlement:22nd June Slab:27th August Frame:16th Sept Bricked:21st Oct Roof:24th Nov Linings HANDOVER23rd March! Re: Enamel Paint Question 16Aug 16, 2010 1:13 am yeah it sticks to ANYTHING!! I went outside once. The graphics were alright, but the gameplay sucked! Settlement:22nd June Slab:27th August Frame:16th Sept Bricked:21st Oct Roof:24th Nov Linings HANDOVER23rd March! Re: Enamel Paint Question 17Aug 16, 2010 9:48 pm ^ I second that. Zinsser is the best! I remember using it once to undercoat mission brown rough sawn oregon beams that I wanted to paint white. I think that without it I'd still be there on the umpteenth coat, LOL. Re: Enamel Paint Question 18Sep 30, 2010 3:01 pm hey there beckandbubs, i would have to say your problem sounds more like the enamel yellowing to me. I have seen some white enamels yellow badly in as little as 3 months, especially trade qualiy enamel. This will happen worst as mecha-wombat said in areas that get little UV light, like recessed sliding doors, backs of doors ect. An ultra premium enamel will have far better resistance to yellowing, but will not eliminate it. if the backs ( or whichever side recieves less natrual light) of your doors have yellowed worse than the fronts, then this is certinally your problem. i would have expected that bleeding would have resulted in a blotchy, not uniformley yellowed appearance, but ive been wrong before..lol. as you are redoing the doors anyway i would use a ultra premium enamel over your undercoat, rather than the enamel you may still have. i would not reccomend a water based enamel to diy painters, though it is the only way to eliminate yellowing. The yellowing mainly occurs to white or very light colours. 1 2942 This link might answer your question. I had the same issue and it turned out to be the roller. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/painti ... %20coating. 4 18149 Thankyou so much 😀 I've decided on White on white for doors and trims, White on white 50% on ceiling and Mt buller for walls. Fingers crossed it will look OK 😀 2 7158 |