Jun 23, 2020 11:48 am
This is my first post here. My 1970s brick veneer house was partially renovated in 2013. I'm now replacing the last four steel casement windows with Dowell thermaline windows (awning and sliding).
New bathroom window.
I've ripped the old window out. Now that I understand them, hopefully the rest will be easier.
Old window removed. Note the large space to the bottom and the left which will need to be filled.
I've since spent a bit of time tidying up the rock wool cavity insulation. I started to pack the big spaces next to the stud, sill and lintel with Styrofoam SM and lumps of packaging foam I had sitting around. I then started reading about foam and fire and ripped it all out again. I've now come up with a strategy for fitting the window I'd like to share and get feedback on.
Fitting the window:
1. Screw some supports to the sill and left studs to reduce packing requirements.
2. Use the excess sill flashing to create some side flashing for the window.
3. Slit the side flashing to line up with the brick ties. I'm using the flashing between inside and outside rather than a water seal. the original window didn't have any side flashing and it is hard to retrofit properly.
4. Slide the window in from the inside and slip the sill flashing over the original aluminium sill flashing.
5. Pack and square up.
6. Guides talk about being level and plumb but the house and brickwork are not level and plumb to I'm mostly interested in sitting it evenly in the space. Or is level and plump important?
1. From what I can gather the outside needs to be fire resistant. Though the builders in 2013 did not seem to care too much.
2. Use some fire resistant spray foam to build up a lay the caulking can attach to. Should also seal of the aluminium exposed to the brick cavity.
3. Trim the foam and add some fire resistant caulking to act as a barrier to the foam.
1. Follow the marvin approach below.
2. Fit some backing rod/foam between the reveal and stud/sill.
3. Add just enough spray foam to seal the foam in.
4. Pack the rest of the gap with rockwool/fibreglass.
Marvin's reveal/stud insulation.
Does this all seem reasonable? The first one is always the hardest.
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