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Slab heave on house we built in 2010. What next?

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I haven't posted on here since we built in 2010! Back now with what I suspect is slab heave, and freaking out a little (hence posting at 6am on a Saturday).

Here's some background

We built with M (are we allowed to post names? Big massive builder, you know the one) in 2010, in outer South-East Melbourne. We have highly reactive clay soil and an H-class slab (waffle pod).

On one corner of the house the second layer of bricks has shifted a few mm. There are gaps appearing around the outside of a couple of windows, and about 5-6 floor tiles have cracked (2-3 very recently) in the same area. There's also silicone coming away from where the skirting board meets the walls. So it's pretty clear we have slab heave on one side of the house.

We haven't paved/concreted down either side of the house (although we were looking to do this soon). On one side I've put in a retaining wall that ends about 1.8m from the house. Under the top-soil that's lined with scoria and an AG-pipe into the existing storm drain. I've got a layer of fine gravel on the ground around the side and the back (Tynon topping). On the 'dead' side we never go down I've done nothing at all, it's still as M left it with a cut away from the foundation to the boundary 1.5m away. On the other side of the fence is a park, though the nearest trees are about 10m away.

In the front garden our landscaping is just lawn, plants, and a small maple tree that is at the furthest corner on the property. No concreting other than the slab and the driveway that Metricon put in. The house was cut in to the land, and the retaining wall down the side extends all the way round the back, about 1.5m from the house at the closest point.

I haven't called M as yet - I want to compile some photographs and get some advice first. Our neighbours across the way built at the same time but haven't had any slab heave problems. They did have some other problems with their foundation and balcony that I think they recently got M to rectify.

Ideally I want M to sort this out. Whether that's underpinning, putting some grout or other compound in there or what have you. We have a 25-year structural guarantee. I've read Softley versus Metricon and while I do not want to go down the legal route I'd rather do that than my home fall apart. But I don't want to jump the gun.

I'm thinking first step is to call M next week and go from there. If anyone has any advice I'd be keen to hear it. Thanks!



https://www.vcat.vic.gov.au/sites/default/files/resources/softley_v_metricon_homes_pty_ltd.pdf
Modeski
I haven't posted on here since we built in 2010! Back now with what I suspect is slab heave, and freaking out a little (hence posting at 6am on a Saturday).

Here's some background

We built with M (are we allowed to post names? Big massive builder, you know the one) in 2010, in outer South-East Melbourne. We have highly reactive clay soil and an H-class slab (waffle pod).

On one corner of the house the second layer of bricks has shifted a few mm. There are gaps appearing around the outside of a couple of windows, and about 5-6 floor tiles have cracked (2-3 very recently) in the same area. There's also silicone coming away from where the skirting board meets the walls. So it's pretty clear we have slab heave on one side of the house.

We haven't paved/concreted down either side of the house (although we were looking to do this soon). On one side I've put in a retaining wall that ends about 1.8m from the house. Under the top-soil that's lined with scoria and an AG-pipe into the existing storm drain. I've got a layer of fine gravel on the ground around the side and the back (Tynon topping). On the 'dead' side we never go down I've done nothing at all, it's still as M left it with a cut away from the foundation to the boundary 1.5m away. On the other side of the fence is a park, though the nearest trees are about 10m away.

In the front garden our landscaping is just lawn, plants, and a small maple tree that is at the furthest corner on the property. No concreting other than the slab and the driveway that Metricon put in. The house was cut in to the land, and the retaining wall down the side extends all the way round the back, about 1.5m from the house at the closest point.

I haven't called M as yet - I want to compile some photographs and get some advice first. Our neighbours across the way built at the same time but haven't had any slab heave problems. They did have some other problems with their foundation and balcony that I think they recently got M to rectify.

Ideally I want M to sort this out. Whether that's underpinning, putting some grout or other compound in there or what have you. We have a 25-year structural guarantee. I've read Softley versus Metricon and while I do not want to go down the legal route I'd rather do that than my home fall apart. But I don't want to jump the gun.

I'm thinking first step is to call M next week and go from there. If anyone has any advice I'd be keen to hear it. Thanks!



https://www.vcat.vic.gov.au/sites/default/files/resources/softley_v_metricon_homes_pty_ltd.pdf




We barely have nay rain in the last 6 mths.
Is it possible it's opposite of slab heave. Ie. Due to so little rain the clay actually shrink and house sinks a little??

But M is king of piers for their slab.
So I think I'm wrong.
https://www.cornellengineers.com.au/how ... heave/?amp

MyFirst
Modeski
I haven't posted on here since we built in 2010! Back now with what I suspect is slab heave, and freaking out a little (hence posting at 6am on a Saturday).

Here's some background

We built with M (are we allowed to post names? Big massive builder, you know the one) in 2010, in outer South-East Melbourne. We have highly reactive clay soil and an H-class slab (waffle pod).

On one corner of the house the second layer of bricks has shifted a few mm. There are gaps appearing around the outside of a couple of windows, and about 5-6 floor tiles have cracked (2-3 very recently) in the same area. There's also silicone coming away from where the skirting board meets the walls. So it's pretty clear we have slab heave on one side of the house.

We haven't paved/concreted down either side of the house (although we were looking to do this soon). On one side I've put in a retaining wall that ends about 1.8m from the house. Under the top-soil that's lined with scoria and an AG-pipe into the existing storm drain. I've got a layer of fine gravel on the ground around the side and the back (Tynon topping). On the 'dead' side we never go down I've done nothing at all, it's still as M left it with a cut away from the foundation to the boundary 1.5m away. On the other side of the fence is a park, though the nearest trees are about 10m away.

In the front garden our landscaping is just lawn, plants, and a small maple tree that is at the furthest corner on the property. No concreting other than the slab and the driveway that Metricon put in. The house was cut in to the land, and the retaining wall down the side extends all the way round the back, about 1.5m from the house at the closest point.

I haven't called M as yet - I want to compile some photographs and get some advice first. Our neighbours across the way built at the same time but haven't had any slab heave problems. They did have some other problems with their foundation and balcony that I think they recently got M to rectify.

Ideally I want M to sort this out. Whether that's underpinning, putting some grout or other compound in there or what have you. We have a 25-year structural guarantee. I've read Softley versus Metricon and while I do not want to go down the legal route I'd rather do that than my home fall apart. But I don't want to jump the gun.

I'm thinking first step is to call M next week and go from there. If anyone has any advice I'd be keen to hear it. Thanks!



https://www.vcat.vic.gov.au/sites/default/files/resources/softley_v_metricon_homes_pty_ltd.pdf




We barely have nay rain in the last 6 mths.
Is it possible it's opposite of slab heave. Ie. Due to so little rain the clay actually shrink and house sinks a little??

But M is king of piers for their slab.
So I think I'm wrong.
It's still slab heave,uneven moisture conditions be it too much water in one area of your slab or very dry conditions in parts of your slab,all concrete slabs especially waffle prefer even moisture conditions.

You will be lucky if they cover it by their structural warranty. They will simply tell you that you haven't maintained drainage under your slab properly, so it is all your fault.


If you have, they piers should be have been connected to your footings with reinforcement and as far as I know, they usually do not do this.
alexp79
You will be lucky if they cover it by their structural warranty. They will simply tell you that you haven't maintained drainage under your slab properly, so it is all your fault.


If you have, they piers should be have been connected to your footings with reinforcement and as far as I know, they usually do not do this.
I would follow the steps from the link I posted above , then contact the builder.. You might get more help than you think.

Thanks, all. I did actually stumble upon the Cornell site previously; I'll start keeping a more methodical crack diary. Although I do have a few photos from the past few months which would be enough to get started with.

I fully expect the builder to try and get out of it by any means necessary, but you never know. Out of interest, does anyone know what it would cost for remediation? I was expecting to pay about $5k for getting a concrete path put in, now that money may need to go towards remedying the problem.
Had a quick look at your previous build posts, in a nut shell
1. It staggers me why most people building don't put up Construction Photos, but rather colour Images of their selections?
you haven't put anything up? Basically, who is going to remember what was done structurally 10 years ago?
2. Do you or the Council have the Geotech report, Engineering Details and was it inspected by your independent Engineer?
3. Did the Builder or Builders engineer give you information concerning Reactive soils and foundation movements,prevention,etc?
4.Remediation and Cost $5K I read? You are way off the mark , times that by 4, and there is a high chance there will be no cure & warranty, Doctors and Engineers agree, prevention is better than cure.
5.OT, read the legal disclaimers rather than judgements/outcomes.
StructuralBIMGuy
Had a quick look at your previous build posts, in a nut shell
1. It staggers me why most people building don't put up Construction Photos, but rather colour Images of their selections?
you haven't put anything up? Basically, who is going to remember what was done structurally 10 years ago?
2. Do you or the Council have the Geotech report, Engineering Details and was it inspected by your independent Engineer?
3. Did the Builder or Builders engineer give you information concerning Reactive soils and foundation movements,prevention,etc?
4.Remediation and Cost $5K I read? You are way off the mark , times that by 4, and there is a high chance there will be no cure & warranty, OT, read the legal disclaimers rather than judgements/outcomes.
Doctors and Engineers agree, prevention is better than cure.



Prevention is better than cure?

I learn that in building industry prevention is not better than cure.

It's an industry summarise in these words "she will be alright mate"
Lol
StructuralBIMGuy
Had a quick look at your previous build posts, in a nut shell
1. It staggers me why most people building don't put up Construction Photos, but rather colour Images of their selections?
you haven't put anything up? Basically, who is going to remember what was done structurally 10 years ago?
2. Do you or the Council have the Geotech report, Engineering Details and was it inspected by your independent Engineer?
3. Did the Builder or Builders engineer give you information concerning Reactive soils and foundation movements,prevention,etc?
4.Remediation and Cost $5K I read? You are way off the mark , times that by 4, and there is a high chance there will be no cure & warranty, OT, read the legal disclaimers rather than judgements/outcomes.
Doctors and Engineers agree, prevention is better than cure.
Excellent point,I took over 500 photos of slab,frame, roof frame, strip footings etc as I personally consider this the most important area.

https://www.cornellengineers.com.au/wat ... ffle-slab/

It staggers me that still today and still see plenty of waffle slabs not protected with concrete right around the slab with a fall away from the property,nine years of water successfully getting at a waffle slab means danger.

Unfortunately to get the house that we all want, we have no choice but to use the volume builders. And they all use waffle pods.

sweetswisssteel
Unfortunately to get the house that we all want, we have no choice but to use the volume builders. And they all use waffle pods.




I'm using small custom builder and they do both raft and waffle slab.

My mentality was if waffle is good enough for volume builders building 1 million+ dollars house surely is good enough for mine. Lol. So regretting it.

If I could turn back time I would gladly pay extra for raft slab.

A friend was building with raft slab. I don't see it takes much longer. The most just 1 day..
Engineering is 80% Common sense and 20% Calculations/Simulations/Proofs
I'd like to think most people have common sense ( I often question this onsite during inspections), but many struggle with the the science & calculations, which is now being automated, OT, now couple that with medicine, Data & Engineering eg Medical Informatics
LOL "Pull your pants down...where do you want the Photos, Data and proofs?" takes on a whole new meaning
MyFirst
sweetswisssteel
Unfortunately to get the house that we all want, we have no choice but to use the volume builders. And they all use waffle pods.




I'm using small custom builder and they do both raft and waffle slab.

My mentality was if waffle is good enough for volume builders building 1 million+ dollars house surely is good enough for mine. Lol. So regretting it.

If I could turn back time I would gladly pay extra for raft slab.

A friend was building with raft slab. I don't see it takes much longer. The most just 1 day..
We went with a volume builder who only does waffle pods and we are taking all precautions. Just be aware though that conventional slabs can also heave.

Energy ratings dictate having slabs now.

A bit OT but I cringe every time I see yet another slab knowing that one of the main contributors to CO2 emissions is cement production.

If cement production was a country, it would only be surpassed by China and the US as being the world's largest emitter of CO2. The additional wood used when a house is built on stumps also sequests carbon long term.
Hardwood floor on stumps would be the best in most cases but there wouldn't be many builders who would do it let alone volume builders.

Only my garage,laundry is on a raft slab which is front bottom of our house ,rest is on strip footings and brick pylons.


Nice looking house.

StructuralBIMGuy
Had a quick look at your previous build posts, in a nut shell
1. It staggers me why most people building don't put up Construction Photos, but rather colour Images of their selections?
you haven't put anything up? Basically, who is going to remember what was done structurally 10 years ago?
2. Do you or the Council have the Geotech report, Engineering Details and was it inspected by your independent Engineer?
3. Did the Builder or Builders engineer give you information concerning Reactive soils and foundation movements,prevention,etc?
4.Remediation and Cost $5K I read? You are way off the mark , times that by 4, and there is a high chance there will be no cure & warranty, Doctors and Engineers agree, prevention is better than cure.
5.OT, read the legal disclaimers rather than judgements/outcomes.


Just to address you points in order.

1. I wasn't really seeking people to look at my old build posts, just more noting so many years have passed. I can dig out my construction photos if people are really interested, just will need to convert from .NEF format.

2. I do have the Geotech report, it recommends an H class slab with a Type 2 waffle raft design. They also recomend piers on the fill side - this I'm not 100% sure was done, though, as slab was done before I had a chance to swing by and take photos. If there's anything else you'd like to know from that do let me know. It did all pass inspection though.

3. There was some information supplied - don't have it all to hand, but it was about ensuring paths slope away from the house so water doesn't pool against foundation, advising against garden beds right up against the house, or trees etc.

4. There go the life savings!

5. Yes there is a lot to go through. Ultimately, though, I paid hundreds of thousands of dollars only nine years ago for a house they guaranteed would be structurally sound for at least 25 years.
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