Slab heave is alive and well, watch out.

Well it's hard to tell if it's N1 from those few photos?
Now you also have to deal with 8 Tonnes of roof tiles
with failing Truss Connections.

Shouldn't you be able to engage in an independent soil tester to test the soil conditions you have now on-site and compare to the soil report that your builder gave you? Seems like a easy way to tell whether the builder's soil tester pulled a fast one on you. Do you have an engineering design for your slab?

P class again doesn't mean anything, it just means there's something special about the site (usually in a bad way). It is not a soil classification per-se, there should still be a soil rating from A, S, M, H, E with optional D suffix. Would be interested to see the report. What was the soil result in terms of breakdown of the layers. Did they drill to rock and how deep did they have to drill to reach rockbed?

In any case, in both the engineering design of my slab and the soil test report, they had clearly stated that "effect of trees have been taken into account". Did you have that?

Also the Waffle slab AS2870 standard was amended around when your house was built, basically the standard was not sufficient in protecting consumers from slab heave, a lot of waffle slabs prior to 2010 were literally floating with no edge beam and due to the massive draught and flood cycle, a lot of houses built in the mid naughties up to 2010 had major issues especially in reactive soil. Sounded like you are one of the victims. Check to what specification your foundation was designed to. it's either AS2870-1996 or AS2870-2011... well since your house was built in 2010, I guess it's impossible for it to be built against AS2870-2011.

This is the document of tbe wind rating , i had to black out the names of builder and engineers hope you guys understand. Also what photos do you want to see to be able to tell on wind rating thank you.

Hi kirashogun thanks for your input but I know for a fact the soil test never happen since they use of a mechanical Auger and its in a range of 3.5 tonne machine, I have photos I was on site a few days later and there was no sign of any machines drilling test holes to 1.8 metres deep. And also they do not have local knowledge of the area since I was the first block they did. So go figure that no drilling no local experience. Ha I've also had a look at next doors plans and the site is classified as P due to large trees near by but yet we are closer to the trees then next door, how does that work our land was classified M with no testing ever done.
Regards

What Ys value did they give you? It should be in mms. M has a range between 20-40mm. I mean 20.1 and 39.9 are both M grade but geez, you wouldn't think you'd want to design the exact same slab. Also what's the soil report in terms of soil type at any particular depth. How deep did you have to go to hit bedrock? In my case, it was 1.15-1.2 metres before they hit dry siltstone. I got a classification of P due to KDR but soil was classified as M with Ys value of 25mm.

A separate engineering company was engaged to custom design the slab (raft). In the drawing, there was a massive label in the drawing that said "effect of trees have been taken into account" so they care a lot of about trees. However, the only difference is extra blinding concrete near the back to 900mm due to trees. 900 mms is basically bedrock given my soil after site scrape, they must really hate trees.

The best way to find out for sure is to conduct your own and spend the $$s to prove beyond reasonable doubt. I don't think they are expensive. Then you will know whether your slab was designed in accordance with the relevant standard and you can go from there.

But unforunately, there have been changes made to AS2870-2011 that is relevant to you. Specifically, even if it is an M site, sub surface drainage is required under 2011 but not under 1996, that would have made the problem worse for you .

Another few Questions for you Mauromario. Do you have concrete paving around your house ? Did you engage a contractor to do it.
Can you post photos of the perimeter of your house.

Hi insider we put concrete paving all around the house 8 months later because we got flooded out. we were never told about anything from the builder other then to find out they never connected temp downpipes to the house, our house was left in water around the house of the 8 months of the build in 2009 and 2010 it was raining it didn't stop once the drought broke in 2010 I have posted photos of how the house was left to sit in mud and water I complained lots of times about it, and when the waffle slab was laid they drove a bobcat over the slab to get access to next door after they removed the side rear fence. I have some much going on here. Not sure which way to go and who to trust.
Regards
Mario

Does the concrete slope away from the house ?

Is it also sealed against the mansory wall? Given the lack of eaves, it’s more likely that the walls get wet in a wet season.

But overall I think it’s just bad news for Mario unfortunately . He was sold on a standard M class waffle slab pre 2011 standard not custom designed with no underground drainage on soil that possibly isn’t M using the old standard. Looks like the problem will get worse as it’s likely water regularly gets under the slab and the clay soil is wrecking havoc.

Yes my concrete slopes away into strip drains all around the house. The fall is 40mm over 3 metres wide x 25 metres long strip drains a long the length of the concrete. No one arguing that point at all they just don't won't to hear about slab heave.

Whats hard to understand is, if no real soil test was ever done, then why wouldn't you at least put down a much worse soil result so at worst you get a over engineered slab design, way way better if comparing slab have or 5000,10,000 more, the only way it would make sence is if builder wanted that classification to win contract.
The question is every thing points to 100% certain to have got slab have.
Under engineered slab
No temp downpipes
No eaves
No real soil test.
** building practices
Inexperienced customer in which the building industry will *** on your back and tell you its raining, then charge you 200 bucks for a $10 umbrella.
I've known similar situations run 10_12 years before a at best compromised fix.

Well the builder hired the geotechnical engineer we had no idea how it worked so we went with a large builder, I have built other houses in the mid 1980s I never had problems the builder was great and i had the old style raft slab with no problems ever. I had no idea what a waffle slab was back then i researched the internet but I couldn't find any real information on it. i don't know who allowed this crap of building practices in Aust, its now I am finding out everything I have enough evidence against the builder and designer engineer I was really hopping to pin it on the geotechnical engineer since they didn't even do the soil test butclassified the soil M as far as I have been told I cannot go after the geotechnical engineer because even though they did not even do soil test the courts will ask how did they cause my loss this is what I cannot swallow these engineers cannot be held accountable. Iam trying to find a way to hold these guys accountable. I am really blown away to how this can happen. I'll try and post more photos of how my house was left in mud and water for the 8.5 months of our build don't forget the drought broke in 2010 and it rained every day. What a crap.

Oops I forgot to mention that when I installed concrete all around the house with strip drains all around as well, our concreter told me to Sikaflex between concrete and the house wall this way water would not run down the wall and in between the house and concrete apron we installed, when the builder came out to inspect the house they where trying to pin it back on us but because we even Sikaflexed between the concrete and house they couldn't say anything. One of the builders inspector actually pulled up the crate over the strip drains taking photos of the leafs around the outlet I told him to back his bag and get out of my house I told him what the f*****k are you trying to pull here as always he was not happy that j cought him out and never heard back from him.

I would go after builder as he aproved the engineering under a practice, fully knowing he was under resourcing a all ready poorly designed system, I would also meet with your local state politician, the more pressure placed on politicians, the much better chances laws will change.
The engineer not doing a soil test, is deceptive incorect information leading to a in correct slab which has ruined your home. Who ever your builder is needs pressure put onto them, if they won't seriously assist you, I know of one particular gentleman who would protest with signs at a display home and their office, ended up getting a satisfactory result.

Hey thank you I will most definitely keep that one in mind I really want to expose everyone involved with the builder it amazes me to See big name builders taking so many short cuts they take your money then they think its ok to short change consumer's it would be so much cheaper if tggey built a good product to start off with. I have measurements that proves every room in my house is short in measurements every room if I hadn't checked just for the sake in making sure that the house matched the plans well to my disappointment I found my rooms short also my garage which is under same roof line was costum disign to fit my boat which is 8 metres long and 6 metres wide but also they agreed to give me 2575mm under front garage panel lift door which they agreed to build I have same for the rear garage door, now in the last 2 years I have lost height under front door opening and it's come to a point I cannot get my boat out of garage with out dropping the air out of tires, this is how bad its gotten I have told my solicitor that if my outboard motor sized due to cannot start, I will added into the claim I have gone from 2575mm under garage door to 2460mm under garage door. How does something like this happen without some serious problems with the footing system.
Any thoughts anyone on how I can loose height under garage panel lift door.
Feedback greatly appreciate.
Thank you kindly.

It's the first thing they look for. They must all have the same textbook of ready excuses to consult.

As a matter of interest, were you given the CSIRO Foundation Maintenance Guide at handover?

No all i gevin was a little booklet stating how to look after your new home. It had 3 pages that's all.

I have posted on here the BTF 19 AND BTF 22 please do read it thus is what builders don't want you to know, that a builder is responsible its called the the builders guide to preventing Dwelling damage. They hand you over the BTF 18 which is the home owners guide. But what about the BTF 19 and BTF 22. Its aimed specially to builders which holds them accountable for a lot of things. Please let me know your thoughts about the BTF 19 AND BTF 22.
Thanks in Advance.

Just be aware that Guides are not leglislated and not always accurate even though they are invariably based on regulations. Everything needs to be cross referenced with applicable regulations for accuracy and currency.