Browse Forums General Discussion 1 Aug 05, 2008 1:09 am i'm trying to put some new curtain rod brackets up...took down verticals
my drill goes through the plaster, hits brick and stops! have tried a small bit and low speed, have tried a small masonry bit as well and nothing these bits are brand new so not blunt! And not a cheap drill either has plenty of power, but is not a hammer drill - is that absolutely necessary? I don't want to keep buying bit after bit when its not doing anything! Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 2Aug 05, 2008 7:45 am Yes a hammer drill is necessary. It's in-and-out 'hammer' action actually smashes/chips the masonry as it drills (the drilling action really just keeps the hole neat and clean).
And a small tip:- If the drill bit gets too hot it starts to go blunt - fast. You can tell a drill bit has over-heated if it is discoloured (dark blue-ish), and if it has over-heated chances are it is now nowhere near as effective as it was when new, which means it will then take much longer to drill the same hole (and when drilling into bricks this is a pain in the butt!), so if you've killed the drill bit do yourself a big favour and get a new one. Try to avoid overly-prolonged contact between the bit and the surface it's drilling into at high drill speed (which, of course, will create the most heat). If that means stopping the drill at very regular intervals or pulling the drill (and therefore the drill bit) away from the surface being drilled - only by say 1 mm - every second or two... this will at least slow down how much the bit heats up. (this sounds like over thinking the issue, and very well may be, but I've too often been stuck with blunt masonry bits so I do whatever I can to try to avoid over-heating them). That said, and I'm not sure how much this applies if you only have the odd small hole in the odd brick to drill, but, I got myself a rotary hammer drill - the big ones that take SDS drill bits - and I can tell you if you've got a few decent sized holes to put in bricks (say 8mm+) it craps all over using a standard drill with 'hammer' action... I reckon it'll drill a hole in a brick in about a 10th of the time a regular 'hammer' drill would take. I'll never go back to the old way... Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 3Aug 07, 2008 8:41 pm you dont need a hammer drill. there are new masonry bits available now that are shaped like a spear head (if that makes sense). I will let you know what they are called Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 4Aug 08, 2008 12:41 am are they the brad point ones?
i bought an impact drill anyway, it switches from hammer drill to drill, and it worked great...took a while to do each hole but i didn't want to over heat it! thanks for your help, i do have another question now What sort of drill/drill bit do i need to drill a hole in a metal door frame? To put a slide bolt type lock on there. Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 6Aug 08, 2008 8:39 am As Mel said, don't over heat the drill bit, it will be useless in no time. Slow it down, press firmly, not too hard or you could break the bit depending on the size. And larger bits need to go slower than small ones. Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 7Aug 08, 2008 8:39 am Couple of misunderstandings in the above posts have a look at http://diydata.com/tool/drillbits/drillbits.php
Twist bits or "normal" bits - can be used in wood, metal, plastics, whatever. The drill should be periodically be removed from the base material anyway to clear the waste and to prevent burning. Masonry bits - are for masonry you cannot drill with any other type of drill bit. The drill is fitted with a hardened blade, lose the blade and the drill becomes molten metal. Use a normal drill and the drill becomes molten metal. Rodda has perfectly described the technique. Tile bits - used for ceramics and glass. Although I've used ordinary masonry drill on tiles without hammer action. Like with all bits there are reasons why there are expensive drill bits and cheap drill bits, similarly for phillips and posi-drives. By a good drill and good drill bit set and replace drills when they are blunt and you'll get a good job everytime. And take it slow DIY is not a race. mmm....donuts Homer Simpson 1956- Links: Site Costs Ready Reckoner | H1 Addiction Medical Advice | Château TDL: The Backyard Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 10Aug 16, 2008 12:26 am _Al_ Spade bit = tile bit in the link. Depends what school you went to Corrected....western suburbs edumacation....I actually know more about hammers....i.e. which one to use to break into which type of car. mmm....donuts Homer Simpson 1956- Links: Site Costs Ready Reckoner | H1 Addiction Medical Advice | Château TDL: The Backyard Re: help! why won't my drill work?? 11Aug 17, 2008 1:16 pm mmm well now i can't drill into the door frame this is doing my head in! I tried normal bits and these titanium ones i bought too, on both hammer and normal drill, and all i got was a tiny dent in the doorframe! Its only a few mm thick from what you can see in the door latch hole so i don't know. I have a box of quality drill bits that seem to be new but their engraved sizes covered by rust ,,,,I tried to sand them to see their sizes but still I am finding… 0 1435 A Sabco spin mop, minimal moisture, not very regularly. I was told these hybrids are water resistant 🤷♀️ 2 7642 That sucks! Hope it all works out. Good to move away from steel anyway for all your reasons, but it's also thermally poor. 16 17880 |