Painting/no more gaps question

A question for all the painters out there. We are getting our builder to leave our skirting boards off, my husband will put them on after handover once he has put flooring down. I've been told that if he then uses no more gaps then the whole wall would have to be painted? Is this correct? And is there a way to avoid this.? I would really like to avoid putting a quad under the skirting if I could. Thanks

Just went through this myself and I didn't paint the walls afterwards. Just make sure you have a wet rag ready and wipe it off the walls before it has dried. Kind of killed my finger tips running them along the top edge of the skirting board trying to smooth out and push the caulking into the gaps.

if he keeps the hole in the nozzle small he can get a nice thin bead that is easy to spread flat with the finger, a damp cloth does save your finger wearing away.
get the painter to finish the face of the skirting boards. that way all you need to do is gap them up, using a small brush go over th gaps with wall paint, then your only left with cutting in against the wall with gloss and your done, no need to worry about cutting in to the floor.

The no more gap ezy squeeze is a lot better. Though after the tube is half empty, it gets harder to squeeze.

Can also cut the fingers off a rubber glove and put one on your spreading finger, before wiping clean.

Use a wet paintbrush to smooth over the no more gaps and follow up with a damp rag. You can generally get a smooth finish with the wet paintbrush is your diligent

Don't go over thinking it too much start in a back room or robe that won't be seen, the key is not squeezing out too much. It's easier to redo a small bit that may need more than it is to clean off a big wad.
Not sure about the paint brush, just adds another step to an already crappy job.

So, my understandind is that he'd use "No more gaps" on top of the skirting boards where they abutt the walls. Just wondering why? What benefit would you get out of it?

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions. It's been a great help.

Lex, I really have no experience with this so forgive me if this doesn't make sense. But hubby is a chippy and he said something about skirts never sitting perfectly flush with the wall so the no more gaps gives a clean finish. Of course he sounded a lot more technical and correct when he was explaining it to me haha.

Just be aware that if you still own the house in 7 years or so and want to repaint the no more gaps will be hard and have to be scraped out and reapplied before cutting in above the skirtings. I am just going through that now. I wish I had not used it in the first place.

Am I not seeing this as an issue ?

Like if the no more gaps has gone hard and is still sealing the gaps the same way it was when it was first applied, why would you want to remove it ?

It sounds like wanting to remove window putty from the windows if repainting them.

Sorry if I've missed something here.

I perhaps should have elaborated more, my apologies. It not only has gone hard - it no longer has a smooth surface. Bits have broken up. Other bits have a strange pitted texture, while other bits are still slightly flexible. I think once it goes hard it no longer copes with natural movement and starts to fall apart. It is really difficult to cut in cleanly with the old no more gaps in place but enough of it has stayed rubbery to make it difficult to scrape out.

I am wondering if there is a sikaflex alternative that stays flexible and would research other options before using it again.

if its done right the first time this should not be an issue, biggest mistake DIY make is using too much. If the gap is 1mm your beas only needs to 1.5mm not 3mm.

I'll be interested in seeing if there are alternatives available which remain flexible after extended periods, but I can't help but think that if it has shrunk that indicates a lot was used to fill are largish gap.

The old days, all that was done was paint, as it was able to fill those tiny gaps a well fitting skirting board to the gyprock.

As mgilla says, a 1mm gap only needs a 1.5mm bead.

If everyone that has gone before in the build of the house - framing carpenter and the frames are relatively straight and in line then the gyprocker who puts the sheets on and plasters them well then the skirting boards should sit hard against the plasterboard with little or no gaps at all. A small bead as others have suggested is all that is needed. It doesn't even have to be flexible if the house has been built well - it is there as a ( small ) gap filler and mostly to disguise the thin dark line between skirting and wall.

Stewie