Browse Forums General Discussion 1 Dec 14, 2012 4:18 pm I have commenced renovating an old farm house and I have the turned verandah posts down ready for new concrete ECT... When I pulled these 100 plus year old posts down I noticed a bit of deteriation on the bottoms of the posts. The posts were directly mounted onto the old concrete verandah with flat steel bars each side holding onto the posts. They have only had about 2 licks of paint in the last century and apart from the base, are in pretty goos nick. Not sure whether the bottom damage is just because the base of the post has been sitting on the concrete and therefore allowing moisture to penetrate over time, or if it is some sort of dry rot. Web search suggested that dry rot discoloured the timber and looks to be diff from what I am seeing. I want to strip all the old paint off and start from scratch, but not sure how I should deal with the base's of the posts? Should I just put heaps of primer before mounting the posts on proper metal bases off the ground, or is there another treatment I am not aware of ? I may have to trim a few inches off because the base will sit them higher, but still would like to treat the base. You can use your finger and just pick away at the timber for about 5 - 10 mm before getting hard again http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp184/eyspy/post-3_zpse0b803ff.gif http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp184/eyspy/post-2_zps00ae725c.gif http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp184/eyspy/post-1_zps55070847.gif Re: Dry rot or not ? 2Dec 14, 2012 9:03 pm OK further research leads me to believe its wet rot. How do I treat that ? Re: Dry rot or not ? 3Dec 14, 2012 9:16 pm better homes and gardens had a episode where they fixed a similar problem. I think the rob dude had some special pait which after cleaning as much as possible with wire brush you apply this stuff and let is soak in then repair and paint. Re: Dry rot or not ? 4Dec 14, 2012 10:01 pm Soak in Creosote maybe? 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Dry rot or not ? 7Dec 15, 2012 3:33 pm Danois Dry rot doesn't attack the underlying timber. However, with wet rot, chances of dry rot going along with it is greater. Dry rot thrives in humid, warm, and still air. Pretty warm where I live but not humid, how do I treat it ? Re: Dry rot or not ? 8Dec 15, 2012 9:32 pm oldmacdonald Danois Dry rot doesn't attack the underlying timber. However, with wet rot, chances of dry rot going along with it is greater. Dry rot thrives in humid, warm, and still air. Pretty warm where I live but not humid, how do I treat it ? Depends how widespread it is. If it's "everywhere", you need to don a space suit sort of thing with a breathing apparatus if needed, and get rid of everything infested. If it's not widespread, around here you can get something called "Rodalon", but the brand doesn't matter. You need some strong fungicide. Be careful with it, though, as it's not exactly healthy either. When that is done, constant airflow (it will be humid in the attic, even if it's not humid in the geographical region) and sunlight is also good for killing off the fungi. You definately need airflow, though, to keep it down in the future. Re: Dry rot or not ? 9Dec 15, 2012 10:19 pm Danois (it will be humid in the attic, even if it's not humid in the geographical region) and sunlight is also good for killing off the fungi. You definately need airflow, though, to keep it down in the future. It's a verandah post, can't get any more airflow than that..... Re: Dry rot or not ? 10Dec 15, 2012 11:45 pm oldmacdonald Danois (it will be humid in the attic, even if it's not humid in the geographical region) and sunlight is also good for killing off the fungi. You definately need airflow, though, to keep it down in the future. It's a verandah post, can't get any more airflow than that..... Ah, okay, I thought it was stair bannisters. Re: Dry rot or not ? 11Dec 18, 2012 8:21 pm B STAR better homes and gardens had a episode where they fixed a similar problem. I think the rob dude had some special pait which after cleaning as much as possible with wire brush you apply this stuff and let is soak in then repair and paint. I remember seeing that. Was it this one? http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/better-ho ... -wood-rot/ "It’s suitable for rotting windows, cladding and weatherboards, outdoor furniture and fencing, but not for restoring structural timber." It's possible but a soak well is usually much larger. Your 'soak well' only holds 424 litres when full. What is your soil type? Soak wells need sandy soils. 10 9008 DIY, Home Maintenance & Repair Ditto 3M Claw, expensive but best thing I've used to date. I put two of the 11kg ones in for a 12kg mirror on the wall, and its been great for 4 years now. 4 2142 The HIA contract, in the term & conditions section states that "Commencment" is deemed when the drainage is started or the piers are dug or the slab is formed up (incase… 2 6177 |