Engineered wood (I-Joist, LVL) Versus Solid timber joist
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I've seen new houses being built, and the majority do use I-joist...
Is the builder correct that we should stick with engineered timber products? and there is no benefit of solid timber anymore?
Note - cost is not a driving factor unless we are talking about doubling or tripling the cost to use solid timber joists.
100% I joists, greater spans, you can cut a fair size hole in them for air-con ducts, plumbing etc. Straight as well and fairly stable with expanding and contracting. Very rare to do a sub-floor in solid timber now
very rare to use solid timber because of cost? or is solid timber an inferior product compared to engineered timber for joists?
I thought at least solid timber is more water resistant than engineered timber.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
I was thinking about water resistance under the bathroom. Will I-Joist be risky in those areas?
I am just trying to determine the best material to use. Cost is not an issue (to an extent). Sounds like F graded solid timber (as joist) is becoming obsolete because it is an overall inferior product?
You can also check out concrete suspended slab floor e.g. with Speed Floor, Bondek or similar system. Much better from acoustic insulation standpoint, but also for passive solar heating.
Wouldn't Concrete flooring be too heavy for my first floor addition? Haven't really considered using concrete flooring.
You can also check out concrete suspended slab floor e.g. with Speed Floor, Bondek or similar system. Much better from acoustic insulation standpoint, but also for passive solar heating.
Wouldn't Concrete flooring be too heavy for my first floor addition? Haven't really considered using concrete flooring.
Do you have timber framed walls or double brick?
definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
I was thinking about water resistance under the bathroom. Will I-Joist be risky in those areas?
I am just trying to determine the best material to use. Cost is not an issue (to an extent). Sounds like F graded solid timber (as joist) is becoming obsolete because it is an overall inferior product?
This is why you would have to do waterproofing over OSB to prevent water ingress.
definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
I was thinking about water resistance under the bathroom. Will I-Joist be risky in those areas?
I am just trying to determine the best material to use. Cost is not an issue (to an extent). Sounds like F graded solid timber (as joist) is becoming obsolete because it is an overall inferior product?
You wont have any water issues with LVL's or I joists for that fact. as the earlier poster said the modern products are engineered to be stronger, straighter and have far greater spans.
also with modern waterproofing the bathroom will outlast our own lifespan.
but as alex said, if you can afford it, go with bondeck. Cost difference will probably be around $100/sqm but a far better result
cheers
Simeon
www.ashingtonhomes.com.au
definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
great reply, very very true
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
My experience with engineered joists and LVL is that they have greater bounce
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
what centres were they at?
Engineer typically will only do static calculations and miss dynamic altogether.
On long I spans I always recommend 2 rows of herringbone strutting to stiffen up.
My experience with engineered joists and LVL is that they have greater bounce
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
Thanks for the advise. Do you only recommend using F17 solid joists in high traffic areas (such as your kitchen) rather than the entire floor?
definitely I joists, dead straight and stable.
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
F graded Solid timber has strength variation between sticks so difficult to ensure they won’t deflect. veneer based joists like I joists and LVLs average out these variations.
Water resistance is not relevant indoors
Much more environmentally friendly too
I was thinking about water resistance under the bathroom. Will I-Joist be risky in those areas?
I am just trying to determine the best material to use. Cost is not an issue (to an extent). Sounds like F graded solid timber (as joist) is becoming obsolete because it is an overall inferior product?
You wont have any water issues with LVL's or I joists for that fact. as the earlier poster said the modern products are engineered to be stronger, straighter and have far greater spans.
also with modern waterproofing the bathroom will outlast our own lifespan.
but as alex said, if you can afford it, go with bondeck. Cost difference will probably be around $100/sqm but a far better result
cheers
Simeon
http://www.ashingtonhomes.com.au
I will ask the builder about bondeck. Will it be too heavy for my existing brick veneer foundation?
My experience with engineered joists and LVL is that they have greater bounce
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
I have used engineered joists throughout my home 14M span over several walls but in the kitchen I added 2x 300 KDHW F17 solid joists to reduce bounce, all good.
Just get your engineer to check design for bounce.
Thanks for the advise. Do you only recommend using F17 solid joists in high traffic areas (such as your kitchen) rather than the entire floor?
It depends, bounce in bedrooms or lounge may not matter but you don’t want your plates and glasses rattling in the kitchen when you walk.
It depends on design, spans and use.
https://www.tilling.com.au/wp-content/u ... 8.web_.pdf
this has a good section on dynamic performance.
I joists are light, LVLs will have better dynamic performance as they are heavier. 300mm F17 hardwood is nice but probably comes out of a beautiful big eucalypt whereas the LVL is plantation grown pine. The eucalypt would be better used as a nice table or something, in my opinion, still the F17 is nice stuff
this has a good section on dynamic performance.
I joists are light, LVLs will have better dynamic performance as they are heavier. 300mm F17 hardwood is nice but probably comes out of a beautiful big eucalypt whereas the LVL is plantation grown pine. The eucalypt would be better used as a nice table or something, in my opinion, still the F17 is nice stuff
am i mistaken
i would have thought LVL joists would be at least as strong as solid timber
am i mistaken
am i mistaken
Yes they are just as strong but I was talking about bounce
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