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LED Downlights and Dimmers - My Experience

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I just thought i'll share my experience as a first time builder. With the help of this forum I chose and installed all my own lights and did my own lighting plan (just got an electrician in to do all ceiling work). I must say for some reason I probably spent the most time on this area of the build doing research and planning. And I still don't know that much about lights!

I would start off to say that I am glad I took my time and placed my lights carefully. I must say whilst some people may not mind it but I dislike walking into someones home and it is lit up like a hospital. It just does not add any character and feels so clinical. So I took a bit of time and placed my downlights where I thought I needed them then added dimmers where I thought I may need to reduce the light in certain areas. I probably would have put dimmers everywhere if it wasn't for the cost.

I installed in minor bedrooms, rear hall and bathrooms these http://www.electriciansupplies.com.au/s ... ts_id=3599 . They are dirt cheap. Yes they are of a glarey style, so I avoided putting them in areas where you would sit for a long time.

Some up wall lights in the main hall. I didn't need heaps of light. Just enough ambiance to walk down.

I did purchase 4 Domus Deeps and tested them early on in the build. I have them installed in my IT Nook and Lounge over where the couch will sit. https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting. Not as bright as the d900, slightly whiter light and the least glarey in my opinon.

I ended up elsewhere using the Brightgreen D900+ as they were on special. All lights in warm white.

Next were the dimmers. My electrican buddy sourced me these http://www.diginet.net.au/portfolio/dig ... rt-dimmer/ . They were cheaper than the other push button dimmers and with the bonus these have a rotary control as well. Much easier to use then the push and hold to dim style. WOW Whilst I don't have anything to compare with, common issues I was expecting is poor dimming performance with LEDs, and potential flicker. With these dimmers all my lights dim down progressively as I will ever need and next to no light on the lowest setting. No flicker than I can tell. Just smooth dimming. Only negative I can tell is the lights have a slight delay to startup compared to the lights on no dimmers.

Couple of Photos

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUdnNlS1VQQkstTHc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUbmJCcFRCVDNDaDg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUM0RoNDE3VGpWUlE/view?usp=sharing
I love those wall sconces in the hall...I'm stealing that idea! Are your down lights sealed? The only thing that I'm stuck on in regards to down lights is the degradation of ceiling insulation and thermal protection...I'm stuck on what to do...oysters aren't the look I want but $ is a factor! Dimmers are on our want list too! Argh the decisions and planning are endless!


Only the Brightgreens aren't sealed as they gimble. However they are OK to have the insulation over the top according to the manufacturer. So there would be minimal thermal loss. If you kept the light straight down without tilting it would also leak less air through.
Good job.

I agree with your comment about poor lighting (over lit, inappropriate for the space etc).

As you say, carefully considering where you need light and what type of light, is where most people fail. In the industry we call it "qualitative lighting design". Generally speaking the best lighting designs are the ones where people don't even notice the lighting - they just feel good being in the space.
Hi Quickdraw,
We are building with New Generation Homes and are going with plug bases instead of the single bayonet so that we can install downlights after handover. Im still not 100% confident as to what this means especially as our building consultant says that they will only provide the plug bases not the junction boxes. Do you have any knowledge in this area? Or might your sparky friend be able to clarify this at all? Much appreciated!
quickdraw
I just thought i'll share my experience as a first time builder. With the help of this forum I chose and installed all my own lights and did my own lighting plan (just got an electrician in to do all ceiling work). I must say for some reason I probably spent the most time on this area of the build doing research and planning. And I still don't know that much about lights!

I would start off to say that I am glad I took my time and placed my lights carefully. I must say whilst some people may not mind it but I dislike walking into someones home and it is lit up like a hospital. It just does not add any character and feels so clinical. So I took a bit of time and placed my downlights where I thought I needed them then added dimmers where I thought I may need to reduce the light in certain areas. I probably would have put dimmers everywhere if it wasn't for the cost.

I installed in minor bedrooms, rear hall and bathrooms these http://www.electriciansupplies.com.au/s ... ts_id=3599 . They are dirt cheap. Yes they are of a glarey style, so I avoided putting them in areas where you would sit for a long time.

Some up wall lights in the main hall. I didn't need heaps of light. Just enough ambiance to walk down.

I did purchase 4 Domus Deeps and tested them early on in the build. I have them installed in my IT Nook and Lounge over where the couch will sit. https://www.golights.com.au/led-downlig ... s-lighting. Not as bright as the d900, slightly whiter light and the least glarey in my opinon.

I ended up elsewhere using the Brightgreen D900+ as they were on special. All lights in warm white.

Next were the dimmers. My electrican buddy sourced me these http://www.diginet.net.au/portfolio/dig ... rt-dimmer/ . They were cheaper than the other push button dimmers and with the bonus these have a rotary control as well. Much easier to use then the push and hold to dim style. WOW Whilst I don't have anything to compare with, common issues I was expecting is poor dimming performance with LEDs, and potential flicker. With these dimmers all my lights dim down progressively as I will ever need and next to no light on the lowest setting. No flicker than I can tell. Just smooth dimming. Only negative I can tell is the lights have a slight delay to startup compared to the lights on no dimmers.

Couple of Photos

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUdnNlS1VQQkstTHc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUbmJCcFRCVDNDaDg/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2QBgsZF6VMUM0RoNDE3VGpWUlE/view?usp=sharing


Thanks for your advice!
We ordered 80 of the 900 bright green lights too, in warm white, they were on special on their official site. Did you use them in the kitchen pic as shown?
Do you think they are too bright? Bring 900 lumen, not 700lumens?

We got the 700lumen ones for bedrooms.

With the dimmers you got did the electrician find it easy to install? Did you. Ever tried the Clipsal dimmers? I thought Clipsal supports the brightgreen LEDs?



viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75739&p=1299716#p1299716
Quote:
Thanks for your advice!
We ordered 80 of the 900 bright green lights too, in warm white, they were on special on their official site. Did you use them in the kitchen pic as shown?
Do you think they are too bright? Bring 900 lumen, not 700lumens?

We got the 700lumen ones for bedrooms.

With the dimmers you got did the electrician find it easy to install? Did you. Ever tried the Clipsal dimmers? I thought Clipsal supports the brightgreen LEDs?



viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75739&p=1299716#p1299716


Yes the brightgreens I used in my Kitchen, theatre and 3 along the entrance. They are brighter than the Domus Deeps and the other lights but that's why I put dimmers on them. Can adjust as required depending on what you are doing.

The dimmers were easy to install. The diginet don't require the additional neutral line like some. I do have one HPM Push Button Dimmer, that the builder put in. But they were more expensive, required the neutral line and rotary dial is just much easier to use. It does seem to dim the two Domus Deeps connected to it OK though.
TamDear18
Hi Quickdraw,
We are building with New Generation Homes and are going with plug bases instead of the single bayonet so that we can install downlights after handover. Im still not 100% confident as to what this means especially as our building consultant says that they will only provide the plug bases not the junction boxes. Do you have any knowledge in this area? Or might your sparky friend be able to clarify this at all? Much appreciated!


Now don't quote me on this as i'm not an electrician.

A plug base is just a 3 pin socket like the following http://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-clear-10 ... l_p4330648

A junction box I believe is just to extend cables. I just had one plug base in the roof space centered in each room for each switch or if I knew where I was going to put my down lights. My sparky said the majority had enough redundancy in the cable to re-route without having to extend. Plug bases are then just connected in series where required.

It may have worked out cheaper to get all the plug bases done buy the builder if you know where you are putting your lights.

My sparky said he used 413 fan bases, but there are 413 quick connects which will lock over the cable and pierce through it to get a connection. Not sure which are actually better/cheaper to install.

https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ ... tltq5x94uU

Hope that helps.
quickdraw
TamDear18
Hi Quickdraw,
We are building with New Generation Homes and are going with plug bases instead of the single bayonet so that we can install downlights after handover. Im still not 100% confident as to what this means especially as our building consultant says that they will only provide the plug bases not the junction boxes. Do you have any knowledge in this area? Or might your sparky friend be able to clarify this at all? Much appreciated!


Now don't quote me on this as i'm not an electrician.

A plug base is just a 3 pin socket like the following http://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-clear-10 ... l_p4330648

A junction box I believe is just to extend cables. I just had one plug base in the roof space centered in each room for each switch or if I knew where I was going to put my down lights. My sparky said the majority had enough redundancy in the cable to re-route without having to extend. Plug bases are then just connected in series where required.

It may have worked out cheaper to get all the plug bases done buy the builder if you know where you are putting your lights.

My sparky said he used 413 fan bases, but there are 413 quick connects which will lock over the cable and pierce through it to get a connection. Not sure which are actually better/cheaper to install.

https://www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ ... tltq5x94uU

Hope that helps.


Much appreciated Quickdraw! We have a single plug base in all areas of the house bar the bedroom (now I'm thinking we should have gone for plug bases in bedrooms too!). We weren't sure if we would need more cabling as, having looked at downlights online, the cables seemed quite short. But, I'll note down the details from your message and do some further research. Thanks so much for your response
TamDear18,
We build with NGH last year and we have plug base for every room too. I'm not sure how to diy few LED downlights, probably it just as simple as extension cord. But my sparky has no issue installing them on plug base.
stewart_88
TamDear18,
We build with NGH last year and we have plug base for every room too. I'm not sure how to diy few LED downlights, probably it just as simple as extension cord. But my sparky has no issue installing them on plug base.


Extension cords and power boards in the roof as far as I know are not common practice.
quickdraw
stewart_88
TamDear18,
We build with NGH last year and we have plug base for every room too. I'm not sure how to diy few LED downlights, probably it just as simple as extension cord. But my sparky has no issue installing them on plug base.


Extension cords and power boards in the roof as far as I know are not common practice.


Yes, fire hazards like that are generally to be avoided...
Clipsal 413 QC (quick connect) are about $5 and are the bees knees.
I love the wall sconces. Where are the obligatory 3 pendants over the kitchen island/bench area? LOL
Hi all, my question is kind of related and didnt want to start another thread.

I am looking at lighting layout for our new build.

In the living and dining we would like 4 lights per circuit, with two way switching and dimming.

Looking online I think it's possible and may not be too expensive. This mob indicates they can do it:
https://ibb.co/LZph28t
https://www.pierlite.com.au/wp-content/ ... -Guide.pdf

Has anyone had any experience with it? Had any issues?
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