timber floor costs

guys can i get some ideas on costs please

Depends... On you and the quality of research you do. As well as on what you want to have.. The question is so general that nothing but a general answer could be given - $70 to $250 per m2 finished I guess.

Unfortunately it's a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" question...

Factors which affect the price:

• Timber quality/grade (recycled, flawless, character?)
• Timber species (hardness, durability, popularity)
• Engineered timber or timber planks or prefinished planks or laminate or vinyl
• Plank length/thickness (8mm - 19mm?)
• Fully installated or DIY (sanding, filling, coating, polishing costs)
• Existing floor (levelling, cleaning, removal of old floor)
• Ongoing maintenance (stripping, sanding, re-finishing)

Here are a few links to get you started on choosing a timber species
http://www.northernriverstimber.com.au/ ... rating.php
http://www.woodstockflooring.com.au/
http://www.midlandbrick.com.au/Brochure ... ny=Midland

As Ebyelyakov mentioned, if you shop around and research thoroughly (it'll be more than a few invested hours) you are more likely to make a more informed decision and find the cheapest price.

I'm getting Sydney blue gum (select) 130x14mm on 12mm plywood over a concrete base. supply and fully installed is costing me $170 per square meter. Now I have no idea whether this is a good price or not. does anyone know? Hope that helps you abit.

I do not know much about Sydney Blue Gum but based on the info here http://www.northernriverstimber.com.au/ ... rating.php it is a not bad kind if timber.

I'm getting Grey Ironbark at $42 per m2 not installed. Considering I'm doing it myself with a help of contractor, the cost of labour is negligible.

I personally (and I'm not a professional - just a thorough researcher and meticulous reader) would be concerned with the dimensions you have, i.e.
- 12 mm plywood seems a bit to thin - a recommended minimum is 15mm
- 14 mm for timber x 130 wide seems a bit too extreme - such combination will more rapidly respond to changes in the level of moisture and therefore, might be more prone to problems of shrinking, cupping and cracking. I decided to minimise risks by going with 90x19 mm timber...

All my ideas from above are based on the following publications:
1. Timber Flooring – VERSION 2 – April 2009 © 2009 Forest & Wood Products Australia - can be found at www.atfa.com.au
2. Timber Manual Datafile P1 from National Association of Forest Industries - google it

Are you aware that the 130mm wide boards nead to be top nailed or trowel glued ?

Thanks for the advice. I didnt even think about the wider boards being more prone to movement, shrinkage. Should I be really worried? Also, is there a min of 15mm for the ply? i remember reading that you can go for 12mm ply for timber flooring? that's gotten me abit worried. My installer didnt mention anything!!

Mickve, I'm not sure what trowel glued is, but i know they are using a glue to stick down the timber to the ply, as well as secret nailing all the boards?

Wonderland, I too am researching timber at the moment. And have been talked out of the 130 wide boards (spotted gum).

I thought the wider the better, but two different floor installers said that they are more prone to movement, cupping etc.

I am now going for the narrower 85mm board (which is A LOT cheaper anyhow )

I've spoken to a few timber guys before i decided on the 130mm boards and none of them mentioned anything about it being more prone to movement/problems!! Well i hope its only a difference of opinion because we have already installed the boards. I just hope we havent made the wrong decision, especially considering they do cost abit more as well!!!

I am getting a bit cynical in my old age ... maybe it's a case of they are harder to get hold of .. and stock of the narrower boards are plentiful ...

I think the wider boards look gorgeous. Do you have any pics?

Sorry but they are correct about the wide board.

Regarding 130mm wide boards.

Traditionally manufacturers (mills) haven't warrantied wider boards if they were not top nailed. However Boral has just started providing warranties for 130mm boards that are secret nailed, however they do need to be glued to specifications.

You can use narrower ply than the recommended 15mm, however you do need to ensure that the subfloor is level. There are fixing charts available for the staple sizes needed for the different sized boards and ply/battens.

Yes to avoid top nails we trowel glue bostich ultraset or something similar.

Hi w,
So you went with raw slimwood then (thinner raw T&G boards)?
Was the installation on the slab or on some subfloor like plywood?
Can you show us some pitcures?

hi everyone, thanks for all the advice. Too late now as the floors are all door, just waiting for the coating now.

Lex, i went with t&g boards, but its the 130x14 as the wider boards dont come in 12mm. They put a waterproof mat down on the concrete slab, then put plywood. The boards are glued and secret nailed onto the plywood. I got my timber off big river timber because they are a big company, and the person installing the floor is a subcontractor of big river, so i assume they are pretty experienced and qualified.

I will try to take some photos to post here. It looks really good, i'm really happy with how things turned out. If we have issues with the wider boards later down the track, we will jsut have to deal with it. And if we dont, well that's just an extra added bonus.

cheers all.

Thanks, wonderland !
I'd love to see your floor. Did you say it was blackbutt? What kind of finish did you have?
The matt underlay - do you know how thick it was??

No, we got sydney blue gum. i wanted the redness in the timber so opted for this. We are just getting a high gloss finish on our floors. The ply was 12mm structural ply.
cheers

Thanks, w.
You also mentioned that they put a waterproof mat directly onto the concrete slab first - do you know what type of mat it was (eg. was it rubber or ...), then they put plywood. Do you know how thick was the mat?
As you can probably see, I am trying to work out the total height
I'd love the real boards (like your slimwood), but they would still be higher than the other flooring types.

Hi Lex,

Sorry for intruding - the waterproof membrane is 200nm (or whatever the measurement units) 1/5 of a millimetre - $136 in Bunnings for 200m2 (a 4x50 m roll). I reckon you can disregard it as adding weight.

Aha, thanks, e! I thought w was talking about some thick rubber style mats which I saw on the net ...
So, it's just a very thin "film" style of backing.
Any idea if it's better to use liquid-style of moisture barrier (paint it onto slab) or plastic film style?
Is any of these better suited in specific flooring type or installation type?