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Solid Timber on Slab: Supply/Install Recommendations (Melb)

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I've decided against the many pre-finished floors out there and want to have solid hardwood floors laid and finished by someone who knows what they're doing. Some of my trades have recommended against doing timber flooring over concrete due to cupping and don't have any referrals for me.

From all the research I've done, timber over concrete is ok provided it is done properly. I've worked out that I need to:
- have the slab tested for moisture level
- apply a moisture proofing sealant (at least 2 coats) instead of using plastic sheeting
- lay 12mm ply sheets
- lay 12mm overlay solid timber boards using glue & secret nail
Good so far, or should be doing something differently? There isn't any joins to carpet, just tiles in the laundry which haven't been laid yet. So if possible they could be raised to match timber?

So far I've only had one quote which was about $150/sqm to supply, install and finish the floor (in Spotted Gum) using 12mm ply and a plastic moisture barrier. I also have someone coming onsite for a quote later in the week.
I've got to hit the yellow pages... but I'd much prefer personal experience with something like this as its not going to be a cheap job and want it done well.

So anyone willing to share any recommendations for timber floor in Melbourne (Eastern Suburbs)? Looking for supply/install/finish as I'm not capable of doing any of it myself.
50 views and no recommendations? Where are people getting their great floors from?

I've had a few quotes now. 2 of them came in around the same price (Connolly's & Completely Floored) and quoted almost identical work so good to not get too much conflicting info.
- 12mm ply over plastic sheeting
- 19mm select spotted gum (one was a boral product, other not sure)
- sand/coat floor and also do timber staircase at the same time

Had a 3rd quote where the guy was adamant that the ply is a waste of time and 13mm direct stick is the best option. Seemed a bit *******.

Seen MasterPlus mentioned here so I'll get a quote from them.
We had our solid Tassie Oak floors supplied/installed from Solid Hardwood Flooring. Sean was who we dealt with, they did a great job and were able to do it without quad even though we had our skirting boards already installed.

www.solidhardwoodflooring.com.au is there website, take a look
I'm going for 12 mm ply with Boral Slimwood (13 mm) glued and secret nailed. The glue is not full trowel, but just beading.

There is a waterproofing plastic, but not painted on as you mentioned.
haywgl
We had our solid Tassie Oak floors supplied/installed from Solid Hardwood Flooring. Sean was who we dealt with, they did a great job and were able to do it without quad even though we had our skirting boards already installed.

http://www.solidhardwoodflooring.com.au is there website, take a look

Added to the list of quotes to get tomorrow. I'll most likely get the floor down before kitchen and final fix so skirting etc isn't an issue. I do want to avoid using quad around the kitchen cabinets

Casa2
I'm going for 12 mm ply with Boral Slimwood (13 mm) glued and secret nailed. The glue is not full trowel, but just beading.

There is a waterproofing plastic, but not painted on as you mentioned.

I'm not sure if there is any benefit going upto the 19mm boards other than floor height? I haven't worked out the height of tiles in the wet area. Gotta speak to the tiler
Solidhardwoodflooring don't do spotted gum, but thanks for the suggestion.

I think i am finished with quotes, got 3 of them all doing plastic barrier, 12mm ply and then boards on top. So in my mind if 3 larger places use this method, it must be for a reason.
As mentioned the 4th claimed ply is a waste of time. So really just have to decide if 19mm boards are worth it over 14mm ones. I don't think so.

Most likely go with MasterPlus as they're about $2k cheaper probably mostly due to the fact they use 14mm boards while the other 2 use 19mm boards (one being a boral product so I'm sure extra markup).

They're telling me that doing the floor after plaster and before kitchen etc isn't a problem. Just make sure the plumbers don't walk around with silicon under their feet. So I can just put paths of old carpet upside down around the house

All that is really left to decide is the finish. I think a semi gloss poly finish (Is this called satin as well or that something else) will be on the cards. Not sure if I like the mirror full gloss look.
just to sum up what you probably already said.
1- Nothing wrong with plastic. It is cheaper and is just as effective. You only need to paint on the moisture barrier if you have direct stick flooring and therefore plastic wouldnt work.

2. 19mm is a structial floor where as overlays arent(12mm etc). You will also tend to get longer lengths in 19mm flooring. However as others have pointed out you do not nesserrily get extra life from thicking 19mm flooring as the top surface is usally about the same.

3. For 19mm it would be best to have atleast 15mm plywood as per the as standards.
Check out http://clintfudgefloorsanding.googlepages.com/ for someone who takes great pride in their work. Probably on the expensive side, but the photos do show a very high quality finish. We are thinking of having him come out and do ours when we are ready, sand, stain and polish
19mm flooring needs to be laid over 15mm ply minimum. 12mm ply is fine for the 12mm overlay flooring.
The secret nail (which is actually a staple) will go through the ply and hit the concrete if 12mm ply is used (providing they use the correct length staple)
The is a special 28mm short staple for use in 12mm/13mm overlay flooring over 12mm ply
borg
2. 19mm is a structial floor where as overlays arent(12mm etc). You will also tend to get longer lengths in 19mm flooring. However as others have pointed out you do not nesserrily get extra life from thicking 19mm flooring as the top surface is usally about the same.
Don't need the lengths, so not really an issue.

Lam
Check out http://clintfudgefloorsanding.googlepages.com/ for someone who takes great pride in their work.
I found that page when googling for spotted gum photos ages ago, his work looks sensational.

borg
3. For 19mm it would be best to have atleast 15mm plywood as per the as standards.
Dukekamaya
19mm flooring needs to be laid over 15mm ply minimum. 12mm ply is fine for the 12mm overlay flooring.
The secret nail (which is actually a staple) will go through the ply and hit the concrete if 12mm ply is used (providing they use the correct length staple)
The is a special 28mm short staple for use in 12mm/13mm overlay flooring over 12mm ply

Didn't know 19mm required 15mm ply as a standard which casts a bit of doubt over places recommending/supplying 19mm on 12mm ply. It's really hard for the average consumer to know what to get!

Thanks for the help all, will lock in the quote for plastic, 12mm ply and 14mm boards when I get a chance.
Having laid 19mm and 12mm soild timber flooring since the early 90's if done correctly there will be no problems. With advancements in the moisture barriers and glues and with the curing of the timber you can and will acheive a great result, the main problem is, that in this industry there is no liecencing so just about anyone can claim they can lay floors. As a consumer always do your research and question the installer. Whilst laying ply over black plastic is common and correct it does raise the height of the flooring overall which doesn't always work with tiles or carpet. Don't always look at the price as you get what you pay for and when spending all that money on the floor don't skimp on a few bucks just for the cheapest option, cause as an installer if quoted too cheap, short cuts need to be taken. Solid timber floors add value to your home and give you many many years of wear.
So in short both direct stick or ply on concrete will work if done correctly and by a qualified installer always ask how long they have been in the industry and what references they have.
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