Solid Timber on Slab: Supply/Install Recommendations (Melb)
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From all the research I've done, timber over concrete is ok provided it is done properly. I've worked out that I need to:
- have the slab tested for moisture level
- apply a moisture proofing sealant (at least 2 coats) instead of using plastic sheeting
- lay 12mm ply sheets
- lay 12mm overlay solid timber boards using glue & secret nail
Good so far, or should be doing something differently? There isn't any joins to carpet, just tiles in the laundry which haven't been laid yet. So if possible they could be raised to match timber?
So far I've only had one quote which was about $150/sqm to supply, install and finish the floor (in Spotted Gum) using 12mm ply and a plastic moisture barrier. I also have someone coming onsite for a quote later in the week.
I've got to hit the yellow pages... but I'd much prefer personal experience with something like this as its not going to be a cheap job and want it done well.
So anyone willing to share any recommendations for timber floor in Melbourne (Eastern Suburbs)? Looking for supply/install/finish as I'm not capable of doing any of it myself.
I've had a few quotes now. 2 of them came in around the same price (Connolly's & Completely Floored) and quoted almost identical work so good to not get too much conflicting info.
- 12mm ply over plastic sheeting
- 19mm select spotted gum (one was a boral product, other not sure)
- sand/coat floor and also do timber staircase at the same time
Had a 3rd quote where the guy was adamant that the ply is a waste of time and 13mm direct stick is the best option. Seemed a bit *******.
Seen MasterPlus mentioned here so I'll get a quote from them.
There is a waterproofing plastic, but not painted on as you mentioned.
We had our solid Tassie Oak floors supplied/installed from Solid Hardwood Flooring. Sean was who we dealt with, they did a great job and were able to do it without quad even though we had our skirting boards already installed.
http://www.solidhardwoodflooring.com.au is there website, take a look
http://www.solidhardwoodflooring.com.au is there website, take a look
Added to the list of quotes to get tomorrow. I'll most likely get the floor down before kitchen and final fix so skirting etc isn't an issue. I do want to avoid using quad around the kitchen cabinets
I'm going for 12 mm ply with Boral Slimwood (13 mm) glued and secret nailed. The glue is not full trowel, but just beading.
There is a waterproofing plastic, but not painted on as you mentioned.
There is a waterproofing plastic, but not painted on as you mentioned.
I'm not sure if there is any benefit going upto the 19mm boards other than floor height? I haven't worked out the height of tiles in the wet area. Gotta speak to the tiler
I think i am finished with quotes, got 3 of them all doing plastic barrier, 12mm ply and then boards on top. So in my mind if 3 larger places use this method, it must be for a reason.
As mentioned the 4th claimed ply is a waste of time. So really just have to decide if 19mm boards are worth it over 14mm ones. I don't think so.
Most likely go with MasterPlus as they're about $2k cheaper probably mostly due to the fact they use 14mm boards while the other 2 use 19mm boards (one being a boral product so I'm sure extra markup).
They're telling me that doing the floor after plaster and before kitchen etc isn't a problem. Just make sure the plumbers don't walk around with silicon under their feet. So I can just put paths of old carpet upside down around the house
All that is really left to decide is the finish. I think a semi gloss poly finish (Is this called satin as well or that something else) will be on the cards. Not sure if I like the mirror full gloss look.
1- Nothing wrong with plastic. It is cheaper and is just as effective. You only need to paint on the moisture barrier if you have direct stick flooring and therefore plastic wouldnt work.
2. 19mm is a structial floor where as overlays arent(12mm etc). You will also tend to get longer lengths in 19mm flooring. However as others have pointed out you do not nesserrily get extra life from thicking 19mm flooring as the top surface is usally about the same.
3. For 19mm it would be best to have atleast 15mm plywood as per the as standards.
http://clintfudgefloorsanding.googlepages.com/ for someone who takes great pride in their work. Probably on the expensive side, but the photos do show a very high quality finish. We are thinking of having him come out and do ours when we are ready, sand, stain and polish
Check out The secret nail (which is actually a staple) will go through the ply and hit the concrete if 12mm ply is used (providing they use the correct length staple)
The is a special 28mm short staple for use in 12mm/13mm overlay flooring over 12mm ply
2. 19mm is a structial floor where as overlays arent(12mm etc). You will also tend to get longer lengths in 19mm flooring. However as others have pointed out you do not nesserrily get extra life from thicking 19mm flooring as the top surface is usally about the same.
Check out http://clintfudgefloorsanding.googlepages.com/ for someone who takes great pride in their work.
3. For 19mm it would be best to have atleast 15mm plywood as per the as standards.
19mm flooring needs to be laid over 15mm ply minimum. 12mm ply is fine for the 12mm overlay flooring.
The secret nail (which is actually a staple) will go through the ply and hit the concrete if 12mm ply is used (providing they use the correct length staple)
The is a special 28mm short staple for use in 12mm/13mm overlay flooring over 12mm ply
The secret nail (which is actually a staple) will go through the ply and hit the concrete if 12mm ply is used (providing they use the correct length staple)
The is a special 28mm short staple for use in 12mm/13mm overlay flooring over 12mm ply
Didn't know 19mm required 15mm ply as a standard which casts a bit of doubt over places recommending/supplying 19mm on 12mm ply. It's really hard for the average consumer to know what to get!
Thanks for the help all, will lock in the quote for plastic, 12mm ply and 14mm boards when I get a chance.
So in short both direct stick or ply on concrete will work if done correctly and by a qualified installer always ask how long they have been in the industry and what references they have.
Related
26/08/2023
6
That's a fantastic result! Happy you got it sorted out. cheers Simeon
6/07/2023
1
Engineering timber is certainly a less fuss option, times cheaper to supply and install and better withstands humidity.
19/08/2023
9
If this is a custom build then I would expect the builder to set out the door frame closer to the wall to avoid the gap between architrave and the wall and or specify…