Owner Build in Southern Flinders Ranges- Cert of Occupancy

Yes the Linea Scyon boards are all 4.2m lengths but the ends are supplied with tongue and groove. As the end to end joints are made, one fills the groove with sealant. This ensures the joins are water proof.
The down side is off-cuts typically cannot be used because they don't have the tongue and groove anymore. (except where they butt into a corner flashing)
The joins are visible if you look closely for them but I widely staggered all my joints. (one does not for example join them all in the middle of a wall.)

I used proprietary aluminium corner and window flashings made specifically for the linea scyon cladding . Some of these flashings have complex cross sections because they both make the corner water proof and also hide the end of the scyon boards. These flashings only came in one length so there was some wastage (I could not reuse any off cuts).

Some of the corner flashings require a double stud underneath them. Unfortunately I did not realise this when I made my wall frames so there was a bit of extra work in removing noggins and inserting the extra studs.

I installed the windows at the last minute as I clad the wall around the specific window, so this allowed me to install the windows and flashings in exactly the correct position.

Thanks very much for the info.

I was looking at using the Scyon Axon, but now looking at the Linea.

Great tip about the double stud, are these for both internal and external walls? I'll let my carpenter know.

I can't tell from the photo, what wall wrap did you use?

The internal corners needed extra studs. My external corners already had double studs.

I initially tried Linea AL external Corner Soakers but did not like them so I changed to Linea external boxed corner with 75mm colorbond corner flashing under.

I used Linea AL internal corner moulds with 75mm colorbond corner flashing under.

I used Linea Universal Adapters around the windows & doors.

I wrapped the house with a breathable foil sarking (I only progressively installed the sarking as I was installing the cladding) to minimise damage to the sarking when I was away in the City.

Do you remember what brand sarking you use?

I'm also looking for a water permeable foil sarking.

I used "Silver Wrap" which has 100's of tiny holes in it to make it breathable as specified in the installation instructions for the Linea Scyon cladding. The manufacturer of the foil sarking is Ametalin. The cost of the sarking was negligible is the over all build cost.

You've done a great job Beetaloo and I've enjoyed reading your story.
I plan to build a timber framed house one day - have already done the design.
Regarding timber framing: Can you recommend some reading material for me that explains the process/methods, steps, hints/tips and more importantly the rules/regulations for timber framing in Australia ?
(Because my site is very remote, my plan is to build the entire house in sections, off site "in the comfort of my own home" and then transport and erect the sections on site.)

I went to my library and searched for books on how to build a house. I only selected books written in Australia so they referred to Australian building regs.
I eventually found a really good book but cannot remember its title any more. It stepped one through the complete building process in detail.
I borrowed this book several times and copied a couple of interesting/relevant construction details.
I also got a copy of the residential light timber framing code and also the NCC - National Construction Code for class 1 buildings.

I made my wall frames on site to minimise freight costs.
The roof trusses were made off-site and the freight and crane costs for this were significant.

My windows were manufactured interstate as they needed to have an approved BAL rating and were not available locally. This required me to pay for a glazing truck (I did not trust a general freight carrier) to travel from interstate and return at my cost. Hopefully you will not have this issue.

My nearest builders supplier is 320km round trip away. To minimise their delivery costs, I was flexible with my delivery dates. I gave them a 2 week window and asked them to wait until they had another delivery in my area so we could share the delivery cost.

Thanks Beetaloo.
By "residential light timber framing code" do you mean the standard AS1684 Residential Timber Framed Construction?
I intend to purchase that standard.
Some time ago I found an Australian book titled "Building a house - framing practices" by Simpson and Hodgson via internet search but have not yet purchased it. Is that perhaps the one you used?

Yes,

AS1684.4 (part 4 is for non-cyclonic areas and includes span tables)

I assume that you are building in a non-cyclonic area.

The NCC National Construction Code for Class 1 buildings is a free download from the NCC web site.

The book I borrowed from the library covered all aspects of building, foundations, setting out, framing and roofing

As I designed my own house, I also needed AS 3959 "Construction of buildings in bushfire prone areas" as my build is in a high fire risk area.

Minor update. The grass is still too green begin to cut fire breaks so I decided to start paving around the house before it gets too hot to work outside. Hopefully some paving will reduce the amount of dust and gravel that is tracked inside.

Looking good

Great posts and an inspiring build, I did a quick Google and looks like it's now forsale.. https://m.realestate.com.au/property-ac ... -131483998