Just for interest sake, I took my new TDS meter out to my new build to test the town water, and see what it was like.
Surprisingly it read 241ppm .... that's 34 times what my unfiltered tank water here is at the rental I'm in.
No wonder I like to drink tank water over town water !
RWT for BASIX (stupid implementation ?)
Page 2 of 2
Hi BP,
You might be interested in the extracts below taken from the Australian Drinking Water Guidelines, page 1,072. The figures are based on the World Health Organisation guidelines 2004.
I think that the table's range is 'liberal' and Australian consumer expectations should prevail for Australian guidelines.
The ADWG is linked below. Note that it is a big file with over 1,200 pages.
http://www.nhmrc.gov.au/_files_nhmrc/pu ... 131216.pdf
You might be interested in the extracts below taken from the Australian Drinking Water Guidelines, page 1,072. The figures are based on the World Health Organisation guidelines 2004.
I think that the table's range is 'liberal' and Australian consumer expectations should prevail for Australian guidelines.
The ADWG is linked below. Note that it is a big file with over 1,200 pages.
http://www.nhmrc.gov.au/_files_nhmrc/pu ... 131216.pdf
Thanks for the link. I might look at it later.
Interesting to see that major cities in Australia TDS values start below 100mg/l and go up to 750mg/l.
Just need to get my head around parts per million (ppm) and how it rates against mg per litre.
Either way, give me tank water any day.
Interesting to see that major cities in Australia TDS values start below 100mg/l and go up to 750mg/l.
Just need to get my head around parts per million (ppm) and how it rates against mg per litre.
Either way, give me tank water any day.
Just need to get my head around parts per million (ppm) and how it rates against mg per litre.
It's the same reading.
1 litre = 1 kilogram.
1 kilogram = 1,000 grams.
1 gram = 1,000 milligrams.
After multiple emails I finally get an answer after 2 months !
This is what we will be getting.
Evolution MkII 3000L slimline tank
RainBank with submersibe pump
I have requested a filter to be installed between the RWT and the washing machine.
What other points do I need to keep in mind ?
I suppose the Rainbank is an electronic device unlike the RainAid, which is mechanical. Would have prefered something mechanical, but this is what we will be getting inthe 'package' !
This is what we will be getting.
Evolution MkII 3000L slimline tank
RainBank with submersibe pump
I have requested a filter to be installed between the RWT and the washing machine.
What other points do I need to keep in mind ?
I suppose the Rainbank is an electronic device unlike the RainAid, which is mechanical. Would have prefered something mechanical, but this is what we will be getting inthe 'package' !
Many builders contract to water tank companies that are dealers for Davey products which is why people end up with RainBanks.
Have a read of the Whirlpool forum thread below about an expensive problem with an automatic mains water switching device that would not happen with a RainAid.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-re ... ?t=2154752
I would recommend having (as an automatic option) the Acquasaver mains water switching device as it is unpowered but because it operates with mains water hydraulic pressure, it is classified and operates as an automatic device. You also need a pressure controller for the pump when using an Acquasaver but these don't cost much. I doubt that you will be given the Acquasaver option though if you are with a project builder.
http://www.acquasaver.com.au/
The manual MainRain would be my first choice on a new build. This also requires the pump to have a pressure controller. The MainRain is a considerably cheaper bullet proof option but a price difference refund would be very difficult to negotiate with a project builder even though you obviously were not informed of the regulatory options or asked what you preferred.
http://www.mainrain.com.au/brochurefeatures.html
Most submersible pump brochures state that the pump must be located above the sediment layer but numerous submersible pumps are not fitted as per the manufacturer's instructions and are simply plonked on the tank's floor. Unless a submersible pump is designed with a decent raised base or otherwise isolated from the tank's floor, the pump will effectively vacuum the tank's floor when in use, resulting in fouled external filters (if fitted) but clean tanks! Dirty cisterns and clogged washing machine filters are a common complaint when filters are not fitted but if the rainwater harvesting system is properly set up, you shouldn't need a filter.
Metal slimline tanks are expensive. Cost and efficiency wise, you are better off with 2 or 3 narrow base round poly tanks that can be used as linked settling tanks. A settling system is where water is diverted to an end tank but the pump is located at the tank at the other end. This means that the water delivered to the pump will be a lot cleaner. Only the first tank will require an overflow pipe, the overflow outlets on the other two tanks needn't be fitted.
Having a submersible pump in a slimline tank also means that the diverted water will (usually) be dropping from a height directly above the pump...not a good idea if the water level is low and you get a sudden downpour. This does not apply with a settling system. You may however be disadvantaged with your tank choice due to the arrangement between the builder and the installer.
Cisterns and washing machines also fill slowly plus washing machines have frequent short stop/starts on the rinse cycle. You don't need a big pump if you are only servicing these fixtures but if you also intend watering the garden, then fitting an 18 mm garden hose with a short 12 mm standard garden hose extension so you can use 12 mm garden hose fittings reduces friction losses and eliminates the need for a large pump. To eliminate the numerous short start/stops, consider fitting a pressure tank but this means eliminating the RainBank. The thread below discusses pressure tanks about 1/2 way through.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72564
The Alternative Technology Association forum thread and the summary's blog link (with photos) that I have linked below may also interest you but again, you are probably locked in with the package as described.
http://www.ata.org.au/forums/topic/15814
One of the two links you last posted shows a slimline tank with a new style of RainBank fitted to the top of the tank with the tank's overflow a short distance away. There is no diverted (inflow) downpipe shown, meaning that the downpipe would be diverted to a top meshed inlet at the middle or other end of the slimline tank. The big problem here is with the overflow outlet's mesh that can gum up and restrict or even block the overflow, causing the tank to over-top. The overflow mesh MUST be accessible for cleaning. The overflow outlet as shown in the photo is inaccessible and although the installation is compliant, it is nevertheless seriously sub standard. Under no circumstances should you accept an installation like the one shown if they supply the RainBank version as shown.
Compliance does not guarantee a good installation, most compliant installations that I see are very much sub standard.
EDIT:
I have just read back through the thread and have realised that this post has repeated a lot of information posted earlier on. I won't edit it out in case some readers don't read the entire thread. Note that I have also included some additional information since posting.
Have a read of the Whirlpool forum thread below about an expensive problem with an automatic mains water switching device that would not happen with a RainAid.
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-re ... ?t=2154752
I would recommend having (as an automatic option) the Acquasaver mains water switching device as it is unpowered but because it operates with mains water hydraulic pressure, it is classified and operates as an automatic device. You also need a pressure controller for the pump when using an Acquasaver but these don't cost much. I doubt that you will be given the Acquasaver option though if you are with a project builder.
http://www.acquasaver.com.au/
The manual MainRain would be my first choice on a new build. This also requires the pump to have a pressure controller. The MainRain is a considerably cheaper bullet proof option but a price difference refund would be very difficult to negotiate with a project builder even though you obviously were not informed of the regulatory options or asked what you preferred.
http://www.mainrain.com.au/brochurefeatures.html
Most submersible pump brochures state that the pump must be located above the sediment layer but numerous submersible pumps are not fitted as per the manufacturer's instructions and are simply plonked on the tank's floor. Unless a submersible pump is designed with a decent raised base or otherwise isolated from the tank's floor, the pump will effectively vacuum the tank's floor when in use, resulting in fouled external filters (if fitted) but clean tanks! Dirty cisterns and clogged washing machine filters are a common complaint when filters are not fitted but if the rainwater harvesting system is properly set up, you shouldn't need a filter.
Metal slimline tanks are expensive. Cost and efficiency wise, you are better off with 2 or 3 narrow base round poly tanks that can be used as linked settling tanks. A settling system is where water is diverted to an end tank but the pump is located at the tank at the other end. This means that the water delivered to the pump will be a lot cleaner. Only the first tank will require an overflow pipe, the overflow outlets on the other two tanks needn't be fitted.
Having a submersible pump in a slimline tank also means that the diverted water will (usually) be dropping from a height directly above the pump...not a good idea if the water level is low and you get a sudden downpour. This does not apply with a settling system. You may however be disadvantaged with your tank choice due to the arrangement between the builder and the installer.
Cisterns and washing machines also fill slowly plus washing machines have frequent short stop/starts on the rinse cycle. You don't need a big pump if you are only servicing these fixtures but if you also intend watering the garden, then fitting an 18 mm garden hose with a short 12 mm standard garden hose extension so you can use 12 mm garden hose fittings reduces friction losses and eliminates the need for a large pump. To eliminate the numerous short start/stops, consider fitting a pressure tank but this means eliminating the RainBank. The thread below discusses pressure tanks about 1/2 way through.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72564
The Alternative Technology Association forum thread and the summary's blog link (with photos) that I have linked below may also interest you but again, you are probably locked in with the package as described.
http://www.ata.org.au/forums/topic/15814
One of the two links you last posted shows a slimline tank with a new style of RainBank fitted to the top of the tank with the tank's overflow a short distance away. There is no diverted (inflow) downpipe shown, meaning that the downpipe would be diverted to a top meshed inlet at the middle or other end of the slimline tank. The big problem here is with the overflow outlet's mesh that can gum up and restrict or even block the overflow, causing the tank to over-top. The overflow mesh MUST be accessible for cleaning. The overflow outlet as shown in the photo is inaccessible and although the installation is compliant, it is nevertheless seriously sub standard. Under no circumstances should you accept an installation like the one shown if they supply the RainBank version as shown.
Compliance does not guarantee a good installation, most compliant installations that I see are very much sub standard.
EDIT:
I have just read back through the thread and have realised that this post has repeated a lot of information posted earlier on. I won't edit it out in case some readers don't read the entire thread. Note that I have also included some additional information since posting.
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