Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on which is the better way to go? Should we use the gyprock product or insulate? We really can't afford to do both...
Looking forward to your opinions on this matter... Thanks!
Sound check vs sound screen
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Hello. I am hoping to get some advice on soundproofing. We have been quoted in our variations for some sound check gyprock and also sound screen insulation. It is for between the upstairs and down (children's bedrooms under the main living area) and around the walls of the master bedroom (shift worker in the house!).
Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on which is the better way to go? Should we use the gyprock product or insulate? We really can't afford to do both...
Looking forward to your opinions on this matter... Thanks!
Does anyone have any experience with or opinions on which is the better way to go? Should we use the gyprock product or insulate? We really can't afford to do both...
Looking forward to your opinions on this matter... Thanks!
Hi Scaredy Cat. Either will help, to an extent, but you have to figure out where the source of the noise will be and what you're putting between the noise and yourself.
I assume the Sound Check Gyprock is for the Ceiling as well as around the main bedroom? The idea of insulating the sound is to stop it from transferring to the surface where you want it to be quiet. In that case, if the sound makes it to the ceiling gyprock, it will still travel through it because sound is a vibration. It's better to stop the travel of sound, so a dense insulating batt that does NOT have contact with both gyprock surfaces will probably be the best compromise if you can't do both. If the master is upstairs as well, then a good solution would be to use the batts as well as putting down an acoustic grade underlay under your carpet upstairs that would be a second layer of noise trapping in both directions. Assuming you have carpets upstairs, of course.
SK
I assume the Sound Check Gyprock is for the Ceiling as well as around the main bedroom? The idea of insulating the sound is to stop it from transferring to the surface where you want it to be quiet. In that case, if the sound makes it to the ceiling gyprock, it will still travel through it because sound is a vibration. It's better to stop the travel of sound, so a dense insulating batt that does NOT have contact with both gyprock surfaces will probably be the best compromise if you can't do both. If the master is upstairs as well, then a good solution would be to use the batts as well as putting down an acoustic grade underlay under your carpet upstairs that would be a second layer of noise trapping in both directions. Assuming you have carpets upstairs, of course.
SK
Hi there,
Soundproofing really can become quite expensive depending upon the results required. I will be building a dedicated Home Theatre in our new home and have invested in a double isolation system that will all but eliminate sound passing from the room.
It is easiest to think of sound like water. There is little use plugging up some of the holes and leave other areas untreated. The sound will effectively follow the path of least resistance. The soundcheck gyprock works by increased mass. Mass is your friend when trying to stop sound penetrating, but it can only do so much. The best and most effective means is decoupling your wall and also increasing the mass. There are a number of products that can achieve this.
In order to decouple your wall, the simplest and easiest way is through using Green Glue Whisper Clips. These screw into the wooden studs of your wall and then a thin hat channel is run on the clips. The gyprock then screws into this hat channel, thus reducing the contact area between the gyprock and your studs. If you remember the old kids telephone of two jam tins and a piece of string, it is much the same concept. Remove the string and the sound no longer carries. By reducing the number of points where the gyprock is attached to your house frame, you will reduce the transference of sound from the room. This will offer a marked improvement. Info on the clips can be found on google. Just do a search on Green Glue Whisper Clips. I paid about 5 bucks per clip and I needed about 250 for a large room (ceiling and 4 walls). For extra soundproofing, I am using double thickness gyprock. Each layer will be about 20mm thick and between each layer is an elastomer product called Green Glue. This sticky, icky material basically absorbs sound energy which travels through the first layer of gyprock and converts the energy to small levels of heat so that it dissipates. All sounds very complicated but its not really and the results are excellent. So, depending on how quiet you want to get, the Batts will offer the minimum level of sound reduction. The higher mass gyprock is better but for the best results, the suggested approach is the double gyprock, green Glue and clips. May add a few grand to the room, but over the life of the home, it is a small price to pay for a good nights sleep.
Good luck.
Greg
Soundproofing really can become quite expensive depending upon the results required. I will be building a dedicated Home Theatre in our new home and have invested in a double isolation system that will all but eliminate sound passing from the room.
It is easiest to think of sound like water. There is little use plugging up some of the holes and leave other areas untreated. The sound will effectively follow the path of least resistance. The soundcheck gyprock works by increased mass. Mass is your friend when trying to stop sound penetrating, but it can only do so much. The best and most effective means is decoupling your wall and also increasing the mass. There are a number of products that can achieve this.
In order to decouple your wall, the simplest and easiest way is through using Green Glue Whisper Clips. These screw into the wooden studs of your wall and then a thin hat channel is run on the clips. The gyprock then screws into this hat channel, thus reducing the contact area between the gyprock and your studs. If you remember the old kids telephone of two jam tins and a piece of string, it is much the same concept. Remove the string and the sound no longer carries. By reducing the number of points where the gyprock is attached to your house frame, you will reduce the transference of sound from the room. This will offer a marked improvement. Info on the clips can be found on google. Just do a search on Green Glue Whisper Clips. I paid about 5 bucks per clip and I needed about 250 for a large room (ceiling and 4 walls). For extra soundproofing, I am using double thickness gyprock. Each layer will be about 20mm thick and between each layer is an elastomer product called Green Glue. This sticky, icky material basically absorbs sound energy which travels through the first layer of gyprock and converts the energy to small levels of heat so that it dissipates. All sounds very complicated but its not really and the results are excellent. So, depending on how quiet you want to get, the Batts will offer the minimum level of sound reduction. The higher mass gyprock is better but for the best results, the suggested approach is the double gyprock, green Glue and clips. May add a few grand to the room, but over the life of the home, it is a small price to pay for a good nights sleep.
Good luck.
Greg
Nice summary, Greg.
In addition to the clips offering a reduction in contact points (less conduction), the decoupling also immediately lowers the resonance point of the assembly. This is directly related to a better ability to control low frequencies.
In addition to the clips offering a reduction in contact points (less conduction), the decoupling also immediately lowers the resonance point of the assembly. This is directly related to a better ability to control low frequencies.
Nice summary, Greg.
In addition to the clips offering a reduction in contact points (less conduction), the decoupling also immediately lowers the resonance point of the assembly. This is directly related to a better ability to control low frequencies.
In addition to the clips offering a reduction in contact points (less conduction), the decoupling also immediately lowers the resonance point of the assembly. This is directly related to a better ability to control low frequencies.
Hi Ted,
Thanks for that. I knew I forgot to mention something. See, I don't waste my time lurking around AVS
Best of luck with your soundproofing project ScaredyCat
See, I don't waste my time lurking around AVS
No time wasting, that's for sure! Thanks.
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