Post build modifications

Hi guys,

Sorry if this has been already discussed.

I am currently building my first home and i wanted to check few general things which i can do post handover to save money. I am a total noob in all this.

You opinions/suggestions would be highly appreciated
If this is a duplicate, please direct me to the appropriate thread.

Electrical:

1- Its a double storey house and they are charging me $105 for each downlight. I dont have any downlights in standard inclusions and one oyster light per room so i will need a lot of downlights.
Question being, should i get it done by the builder or just get the ground floor done. For the first floor then, what do i ask my builder to do? Leave provisions?

2 - Same scenario similar to downlights, dont know yet how much they’ll charge for outlets as havent had my electrical appointment yet.

3- Carpet - Builder is provided standard builder range carpet on first floor, i dont know how that is to be honest. I Would prefer something softer. Any idea how much extra would that be?

4- Tiling, they are providing ceramic tiling which i think would be 300x300. I want to have 600x600 tiles with a shiny look. Any suggestions on that price wise?

5 - i have left Driveway, fencing and landscaping to be done privately as i was told builders cost more always with these things.


6 - Any other things that i should be considering?

These Questions have been answered many times over
Try searching the posts with key words here eg
Projects to Do After New Handover



4. above is a classic where battlers and punters are worse off after handover
Your slab mesh probably requires upgrading for crack control approx $250?
without it those Expensive porcelain large tiles starts looking like cracked Cr@p
6. Proper Drawings and Instructions,Engineering, Compliance Checks, Data, Cost estimate algorithms, 3D Bim
Builders and trades have a habit of overcharging once you have committed to a deposit/contract
Cheers
Chris

A-zed Builders love installing down lights. They have their snouts right into this ‘golden trough’. The electrician’s costs per fitting roughly are; quality SAL downlight $10, Clipsal quick connect socket $1.50, Cable etc $1.00, apprentice labour $7.00. At contract pricing of $105 per installation means that’s some very profitable 90mm holes in the gyprock! I suggest only get them to do or provision the downstairs downlights, where access and wiring is difficult later. Also consider the down lights themselves as some of the basic ones, in my opinion, are truly awful light sources. Good for offices and cleaning but not comfort and ambience!

You seem to have a pretty good wishlist needing a considerable bit of time/money to be handled later or upgraded. I hope your builder is offering much more in terms of building practices/warranties for you to not push for these.

Hey Chris, how does tiles sizing relates to slab mesh performance?

If you have a suspended concrete slab to the first floor down lights have to be done by the builder, canisters have to be cast into the slab

Not exactly, generally, in that case, gyprock ceilings are installed under the slab and downlights are integrated between the gyprock and slab. Sometimes, stretch ceilings are used instead.

The problem with laying larger glossy porcelain tiles are
1. The concrete slabs are usually poorly levelled and have the bare min. slab thickness and reo
2. Slight movements in concrete slabs ie shrinkage, deflections, cracks, etc can be accommodated to a certain degree by screeds, Flexible joints, crack control rebar, glues and grouts,etc,etc
3. the proper engineering is rarely specified ( eg, 2 layers of mesh)
LOL, a bit like polished concrete floor where you have one large brittle material and you are trying to prevent all aspects/defects being noticed visually.
For engineers cracking is acceptable in concrete not on ceramic tiles.
Finally, Where does it leave the home owner after 6 years as the cracks become more noticeable ?
Out of warranty period? tiler blaming the concrete slab <-> the builder blaming the owners tiler?
In NSW the home owner is screwed as there is no Building commission to take your compliant to
Cheers
Chris

My point is if slab is poor and will start cracking, it will be cracking under 300x300 tiles in exactly same way as under 600x600 tiles.

I generally prefer to have slabs with Helix Steel and to be at least 100 mm (better 120 mm).

Second layer of mesh is not really working for slabs under 200 mm.