get sealed as it is installed so as to allow ongoing expansion & contraction of concrete in relation toour climate. The concrete path is below floor level which has a cavity rebate in the slab.
Does concrete foam filler need to be sealed?
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Does this foam in between the concrete and the brick need to be sealed to be compliant? Builder says it does not
get sealed as it is installed so as to allow ongoing expansion & contraction of concrete in relation toour climate. The concrete path is below floor level which has a cavity rebate in the slab.
get sealed as it is installed so as to allow ongoing expansion & contraction of concrete in relation toour climate. The concrete path is below floor level which has a cavity rebate in the slab.
Yes,
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
Yes,
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
Thank you. Is the requirement for a sealant in any of the Australian Standards or is it more of a recommendation and best practice but not actually required?
Yes,
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
The black foam is called abelflex. It actually has a 10mm tear-away to create a well which must be filled with an external grade sealant, something like sika.
Rain is hitting the wall, running down the wall and down between the bricks and the concrete path....to pond around the footings. It is "abnormal moisture conditions" this causes the clays in the soil to take up moisture and expand. But its causing a very localised area to expand, that is what is causing your path to move away from the house.
APPLICATION METHOD / TOOLS
1. Attach to concrete with adhesive like general purpose primer or bitumen paint or a caulking compound during erection of pre-cast concrete labs.
2. Insert into expansion joints, tearing off the zip to leave a well for taking the sealant or caulking compound such as butyl, polysulphide, polyurethane, acrylic and silicone sealants.
3. Zipping - slit through 90% of the thickness to a prescribed depth (standard 10mm) following curing. The zip can readily be torn off, leaving a well to take the sealant or caulking compound.
Thank you. Is the requirement for a sealant in any of the Australian Standards or is it more of a recommendation and best practice but not actually required?
It is in the manufactures installation guide, and AS 3727.1:2016 Section 5 Clause 5.4.3 p17
image p18 Figure 5.4.3
image p18 Figure 5.4.3
There is nothing in the various codes and standards that puts this requirement on the builder to do. I think that is what you are asking.
Don't waste time trying to get the builder to do it. They wont. Find a trade supply store that does bulk boxes of sausage style sealers and do it yourself. It will take you a full day to get around your house to a good standard of finish.
If you go Sika, it will be expensive. I've found Tremco Dymonic to be excellent quality and price. You can pick them up in bulk boxes of 20 sausages at 17 bucks a sausage. Buy the box. trust me, even if you have 2-3 left over, its worth having around.
Also if you have the path already pulling away, you may need attiononal ableflex or foam backing rod to pack the additional gap before you seal. If you try to seal the newly expanded gaps without backing, the sealant will fall between the house and the path and you'll be wasting large amounts of expensive sealant.
Don't waste time trying to get the builder to do it. They wont. Find a trade supply store that does bulk boxes of sausage style sealers and do it yourself. It will take you a full day to get around your house to a good standard of finish.
If you go Sika, it will be expensive. I've found Tremco Dymonic to be excellent quality and price. You can pick them up in bulk boxes of 20 sausages at 17 bucks a sausage. Buy the box. trust me, even if you have 2-3 left over, its worth having around.
Also if you have the path already pulling away, you may need attiononal ableflex or foam backing rod to pack the additional gap before you seal. If you try to seal the newly expanded gaps without backing, the sealant will fall between the house and the path and you'll be wasting large amounts of expensive sealant.
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