I have a really long hallway which is 1100mm W x 11500mm L
I would appreciate if anyone can give suggestions to light it up with Linear LED lights that goes from wall to ceiling
I also looked at installing 3 of these to give daylight impression
https://www.beaconlighting.com.au/yuma- ... t-in-white
also, has anyone seen this?
https://www.kwoking.com/nordic-simple-w ... JoQAvD_BwE
Long hallway lighting suggestions
Page 1 of 1
Is skylight an option?
I've seen the second one before but it was at a commercial data centre, looks cool for a tech facility but I'm not sure about doing it in your home unless it's an underground hallway.
My advice is you can never get enough natural light in a home.
I've seen the second one before but it was at a commercial data centre, looks cool for a tech facility but I'm not sure about doing it in your home unless it's an underground hallway.
My advice is you can never get enough natural light in a home.
Is skylight an option?
I've seen the second one before but it was at a commercial data centre, looks cool for a tech facility but I'm not sure about doing it in your home unless it's an underground hallway.
My advice is you can never get enough natural light in a home.
I've seen the second one before but it was at a commercial data centre, looks cool for a tech facility but I'm not sure about doing it in your home unless it's an underground hallway.
My advice is you can never get enough natural light in a home.
Only Skylight I would install is one with electricity, do not want to cut holes in the roof... (
How long is your hallway?
Make sure that if its over 12m make sure control joints are installed per the Redbook.
Control joints are to be installed:
To coincide with control joints in the supporting frame. (should be marked on plans for all to know)
At changes of framing type or framing direction. (truss design and plans should be updated to show this)
In continuous interior ceiling areas lined with plasterboard, spaced at no more than 12m centres in both directions.
Make sure that if its over 12m make sure control joints are installed per the Redbook.
Control joints are to be installed:
To coincide with control joints in the supporting frame. (should be marked on plans for all to know)
At changes of framing type or framing direction. (truss design and plans should be updated to show this)
In continuous interior ceiling areas lined with plasterboard, spaced at no more than 12m centres in both directions.
Mine IS close to 12m, its around 11.95m including the 5 90mm studs
I do not see the control joint you mentioned in this report
I do not see the control joint you mentioned in this report
On the linear lights - there is an easy way i used to do this in some of the houses i have built (attached detail). I used them in the backs of wardrobes to "illuminate clothes" for my wife - so the "colours would POP". Either that or we are both blind as bats and need all the extra lighting just to see anything.
Ulrich sells a recessed aluminium extrusion with light cover. The EXRS03 is the one i have used. From memory it comes in 2400mm lengths so you can cut it down to whatever length you need. They can be fiddly to install, you need to cut two parallel lines then bond it into the gap. Or you can install them like the detail attached, add two trimmers either side to give you the recess depth. They also have a corner profile EXCR01 etc in the ot
her image if your locating the light in the corners.
The main thing to think about is where to stick the transformer. The tails of the LED can be extended, and normally they stick the transformer behind the light switch that operates it.
I have always found these to be the most economical and good-looking ways to finish LED strip lights.
See attached images for profile reference numbers from the Ullrich Catalogue.
---------
On the Gyprock CJ's
You would only need one in the ceiling as you have plenty of breaks in the wall length over the hallway. Im sure your builders will put one in, its very common practice. They wont figure it in the truss design. It would just be a symbol on the floor plan with an arrow sayin "CJ" - not many builders seem to put them on the plans but the plasterers are generally on the ball with it. The framers just need to run two joists parallel across the ceiling in the location. A super simple job, non structural.
At frame stage, when they measured the gyprock, the gyprock measurer puts crayon marks on the slabs, arrows and sheets sizes to show the installers how they measured the boards (so they install them in the same way as measured).
They will write CJ on the slab where its needed and put two parallel lines on the slab in the location (or just write CJ). If you dont see it, just ask your super/builder where its located and say "cause you want in a "less obtrusive location" or something like that as a conversation starter
Here is the bit from the Rondo Installation Manual taking about ceiling control joints, so you know im not making this up
"Control joints allow for expansion and contraction movements in buildings. Rondo P35 Control Joint section should
also be used when a building board surface abuts a dissimilar wall assembly. It is also recommended by the building
board manufacturers that Rondo P35 Control Joints are installed when continuous ceiling lengths exceed 12m in any direction."
The detail is identical to the wall detail but with different words
Happy building
Ulrich sells a recessed aluminium extrusion with light cover. The EXRS03 is the one i have used. From memory it comes in 2400mm lengths so you can cut it down to whatever length you need. They can be fiddly to install, you need to cut two parallel lines then bond it into the gap. Or you can install them like the detail attached, add two trimmers either side to give you the recess depth. They also have a corner profile EXCR01 etc in the ot
her image if your locating the light in the corners.
The main thing to think about is where to stick the transformer. The tails of the LED can be extended, and normally they stick the transformer behind the light switch that operates it.
I have always found these to be the most economical and good-looking ways to finish LED strip lights.
See attached images for profile reference numbers from the Ullrich Catalogue.
---------
On the Gyprock CJ's
You would only need one in the ceiling as you have plenty of breaks in the wall length over the hallway. Im sure your builders will put one in, its very common practice. They wont figure it in the truss design. It would just be a symbol on the floor plan with an arrow sayin "CJ" - not many builders seem to put them on the plans but the plasterers are generally on the ball with it. The framers just need to run two joists parallel across the ceiling in the location. A super simple job, non structural.
At frame stage, when they measured the gyprock, the gyprock measurer puts crayon marks on the slabs, arrows and sheets sizes to show the installers how they measured the boards (so they install them in the same way as measured).
They will write CJ on the slab where its needed and put two parallel lines on the slab in the location (or just write CJ). If you dont see it, just ask your super/builder where its located and say "cause you want in a "less obtrusive location" or something like that as a conversation starter
Here is the bit from the Rondo Installation Manual taking about ceiling control joints, so you know im not making this up
"Control joints allow for expansion and contraction movements in buildings. Rondo P35 Control Joint section should
also be used when a building board surface abuts a dissimilar wall assembly. It is also recommended by the building
board manufacturers that Rondo P35 Control Joints are installed when continuous ceiling lengths exceed 12m in any direction."
The detail is identical to the wall detail but with different words
Happy building
On the linear lights - there is an easy way i used to do this in some of the houses i have built (attached detail). I used them in the backs of wardrobes to "illuminate clothes" for my wife - so the "colours would POP". Either that or we are both blind as bats and need all the extra lighting just to see anything.
Ulrich sells a recessed aluminium extrusion with light cover. The EXRS03 is the one i have used. From memory it comes in 2400mm lengths so you can cut it down to whatever length you need. They can be fiddly to install, you need to cut two parallel lines then bond it into the gap. Or you can install them like the detail attached, add two trimmers either side to give you the recess depth. They also have a corner profile EXCR01 etc in the ot
her image if your locating the light in the corners.
The main thing to think about is where to stick the transformer. The tails of the LED can be extended, and normally they stick the transformer behind the light switch that operates it.
I have always found these to be the most economical and good-looking ways to finish LED strip lights.
See attached images for profile reference numbers from the Ullrich Catalogue.
---------
On the Gyprock CJ's
You would only need one in the ceiling as you have plenty of breaks in the wall length over the hallway. Im sure your builders will put one in, its very common practice. They wont figure it in the truss design. It would just be a symbol on the floor plan with an arrow sayin "CJ" - not many builders seem to put them on the plans but the plasterers are generally on the ball with it. The framers just need to run two joists parallel across the ceiling in the location. A super simple job, non structural.
At frame stage, when they measured the gyprock, the gyprock measurer puts crayon marks on the slabs, arrows and sheets sizes to show the installers how they measured the boards (so they install them in the same way as measured).
They will write CJ on the slab where its needed and put two parallel lines on the slab in the location (or just write CJ). If you dont see it, just ask your super/builder where its located and say "cause you want in a "less obtrusive location" or something like that as a conversation starter
Here is the bit from the Rondo Installation Manual taking about ceiling control joints, so you know im not making this up
"Control joints allow for expansion and contraction movements in buildings. Rondo P35 Control Joint section should
also be used when a building board surface abuts a dissimilar wall assembly. It is also recommended by the building
board manufacturers that Rondo P35 Control Joints are installed when continuous ceiling lengths exceed 12m in any direction."
The detail is identical to the wall detail but with different words
Happy building
Ulrich sells a recessed aluminium extrusion with light cover. The EXRS03 is the one i have used. From memory it comes in 2400mm lengths so you can cut it down to whatever length you need. They can be fiddly to install, you need to cut two parallel lines then bond it into the gap. Or you can install them like the detail attached, add two trimmers either side to give you the recess depth. They also have a corner profile EXCR01 etc in the ot
her image if your locating the light in the corners.
The main thing to think about is where to stick the transformer. The tails of the LED can be extended, and normally they stick the transformer behind the light switch that operates it.
I have always found these to be the most economical and good-looking ways to finish LED strip lights.
See attached images for profile reference numbers from the Ullrich Catalogue.
---------
On the Gyprock CJ's
You would only need one in the ceiling as you have plenty of breaks in the wall length over the hallway. Im sure your builders will put one in, its very common practice. They wont figure it in the truss design. It would just be a symbol on the floor plan with an arrow sayin "CJ" - not many builders seem to put them on the plans but the plasterers are generally on the ball with it. The framers just need to run two joists parallel across the ceiling in the location. A super simple job, non structural.
At frame stage, when they measured the gyprock, the gyprock measurer puts crayon marks on the slabs, arrows and sheets sizes to show the installers how they measured the boards (so they install them in the same way as measured).
They will write CJ on the slab where its needed and put two parallel lines on the slab in the location (or just write CJ). If you dont see it, just ask your super/builder where its located and say "cause you want in a "less obtrusive location" or something like that as a conversation starter
Here is the bit from the Rondo Installation Manual taking about ceiling control joints, so you know im not making this up
"Control joints allow for expansion and contraction movements in buildings. Rondo P35 Control Joint section should
also be used when a building board surface abuts a dissimilar wall assembly. It is also recommended by the building
board manufacturers that Rondo P35 Control Joints are installed when continuous ceiling lengths exceed 12m in any direction."
The detail is identical to the wall detail but with different words
Happy building
Where were you all these months! I will check this one with the Gyprocker.
While I have you here, let me ask you a quick question....
Do you have actual pictures of the lighting stuff you mentioned?
I have 3 M high hallway ceiling, what lighting do you recommend?
Also, I have raised ceiling 3 M high in another living room, what do you suggest that will look best?
Sorry, experienced people like you are hard to get by... let me take full advantage of this situation
Thanks for the kind words but I can only be half useful.
I’m a bit of a meathead when it comes to all things design and colours.
I’ve attached some images of the recessed led inside a wardrobe. As you can see I don’t major in photography either.
I remember installing them wasnt fun and cutting the gyprock dead straight without tearing the paper was harder than it should have been.
There is another light fitting I came across and put in the current house I’m in, you can order these in different lengths too. I think the one in The photos is 2100mm.
I google a few variations and found these suppliers
https://zlights.com.au/collections/linear-collection
This company looks cool and they are located in Beecroft NSW
https://smithandsmithlighting.com.au/pa ... ng-experts
This black light fitting is easy to install, you can trim the support wires to any length you like. It’s called a led pendant and it’s like this one
I hope this helps you out.
https://onlinelighting.com.au/proline-1 ... k-3.0.html
I’m a bit of a meathead when it comes to all things design and colours.
I’ve attached some images of the recessed led inside a wardrobe. As you can see I don’t major in photography either.
I remember installing them wasnt fun and cutting the gyprock dead straight without tearing the paper was harder than it should have been.
There is another light fitting I came across and put in the current house I’m in, you can order these in different lengths too. I think the one in The photos is 2100mm.
I google a few variations and found these suppliers
https://zlights.com.au/collections/linear-collection
This company looks cool and they are located in Beecroft NSW
https://smithandsmithlighting.com.au/pa ... ng-experts
This black light fitting is easy to install, you can trim the support wires to any length you like. It’s called a led pendant and it’s like this one
I hope this helps you out.
https://onlinelighting.com.au/proline-1 ... k-3.0.html
Mine IS close to 12m, its around 11.95m including the 5 90mm studs
I do not see the control joint you mentioned in this report
I do not see the control joint you mentioned in this report
What? It's a lighting question, the control joint is only needed at 12m centres, a bulkhead or change of direction will suffice as a 'break' in the ceiling, just make sure the battens are 'non' continuous and the joints are back blocked, the coefficient of expansion is marginal with such a narrow hallway, that's why it's 12m in the manual. - A better design solution would be an LED strip or mini break/shadow line to help with the inevitable movement and reduce the chance of cracking.
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