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Hi all,

I've attached a floor plan that I've done up that I'm hoping to build on my block (sorry for the really poor quality - couldn't download a decent quality image from the tool I used - working on that). The carport is in the top right of the block and the "shed" at the bottom left is in the bottom left of the block for reference (couldn't draw the block dimensions in). Being a sloping block we will also be making it split level - the red line shows the proposed split (we laid out the plan on the block last night using line marking paint and by happy accident this aligns almost perfectly with the point on the block where the slope gets steepest).

Background - we were building another design that was developed quickly by the builder. It has been eviscerated by people here and elsewhere - for good reason. Our builder just fired us as our fixed price job is now not profitable after spending 2yrs trying to get council approval. We are taking this opportunity to start again with something that fits the block & our lifestyle better and also fits the style of properties in the area (we are building on a subdivided block in The Basin in Melbourne). And, most importantly, meets the raft of conditions the Council have on our previous design.

Location: Eastern Melbourne at the foot of the Dandenongs.

Goal: KISS and make the home as energy efficient as possible (will be aiming for slab insulation, anticon, R5 roof and R2.5 walls).

Be as mean as you like - I have learned it is better to get it right before we sign with a builder rather than regret it later!



Edit: Upload more recent floorplan
BanjoDan
Hi all,

I've attached a floor plan that I've done up that I'm hoping to build on my block (sorry for the really poor quality - couldn't download a decent quality image from the tool I used - working on that). The carport is in the top right of the block and the "shed" at the bottom left is in the bottom left of the block for reference (couldn't draw the block dimensions in). Being a sloping block we will also be making it split level - the red line shows the proposed split (we laid out the plan on the block last night using line marking paint and by happy accident this aligns almost perfectly with the point on the block where the slope gets steepest).

Background - we were building another design that was developed quickly by the builder. It has been eviscerated by people here and elsewhere - for good reason. Our builder just fired us as our fixed price job is now not profitable after spending 2yrs trying to get council approval. We are taking this opportunity to start again with something that fits the block & our lifestyle better and also fits the style of properties in the area (we are building on a subdivided block in The Basin in Melbourne). And, most importantly, meets the raft of conditions the Council have on our previous design.

Location: Eastern Melbourne at the foot of the Dandenongs.

Goal: KISS and make the home as energy efficient as possible (will be aiming for slab insulation, anticon, R5 roof and R2.5 walls).

Be as mean as you like - I have learned it is better to get it right before we sign with a builder rather than regret it later!



Edit: Upload more recent floorplan

Hey banjoDan

To clarify - when you say KISS - do you mean https://www.kisshouse.co.uk/story/nz-aus/ ?

The majority of passive cooling effects would be hard to pickup from looking at a floor plan.
The big factors to consider would be;
- thermal mass of the ext & int walls
- insulation
- roof ventilation

For example, a single pitched roof with vaulted ceilings would be the best solution in this case with regards to your roof ventilation, but there are a lot of other factors to consider also.

What conditions are applicable from council?
Homebuildguide-Colin
BanjoDan
Hi all,

I've attached a floor plan that I've done up that I'm hoping to build on my block (sorry for the really poor quality - couldn't download a decent quality image from the tool I used - working on that). The carport is in the top right of the block and the "shed" at the bottom left is in the bottom left of the block for reference (couldn't draw the block dimensions in). Being a sloping block we will also be making it split level - the red line shows the proposed split (we laid out the plan on the block last night using line marking paint and by happy accident this aligns almost perfectly with the point on the block where the slope gets steepest).

Background - we were building another design that was developed quickly by the builder. It has been eviscerated by people here and elsewhere - for good reason. Our builder just fired us as our fixed price job is now not profitable after spending 2yrs trying to get council approval. We are taking this opportunity to start again with something that fits the block & our lifestyle better and also fits the style of properties in the area (we are building on a subdivided block in The Basin in Melbourne). And, most importantly, meets the raft of conditions the Council have on our previous design.

Location: Eastern Melbourne at the foot of the Dandenongs.

Goal: KISS and make the home as energy efficient as possible (will be aiming for slab insulation, anticon, R5 roof and R2.5 walls).

Be as mean as you like - I have learned it is better to get it right before we sign with a builder rather than regret it later!



Edit: Upload more recent floorplan

Hey banjoDan

To clarify - when you say KISS - do you mean https://www.kisshouse.co.uk/story/nz-aus/ ?

The majority of passive cooling effects would be hard to pickup from looking at a floor plan.
The big factors to consider would be;
- thermal mass of the ext & int walls
- insulation
- roof ventilation

For example, a single pitched roof with vaulted ceilings would be the best solution in this case with regards to your roof ventilation, but there are a lot of other factors to consider also.

What conditions are applicable from council?

Lol - Keep It Simple Stupid

Council conditions are things like windows that needed to be obscured, etc, use these plants, basic stuff that most councils want yet somehow the builder didn't take into account. I've got plenty of previous posts here about them if interested.
BanjoDan
Homebuildguide-Colin
BanjoDan
Hi all,

I've attached a floor plan that I've done up that I'm hoping to build on my block (sorry for the really poor quality - couldn't download a decent quality image from the tool I used - working on that). The carport is in the top right of the block and the "shed" at the bottom left is in the bottom left of the block for reference (couldn't draw the block dimensions in). Being a sloping block we will also be making it split level - the red line shows the proposed split (we laid out the plan on the block last night using line marking paint and by happy accident this aligns almost perfectly with the point on the block where the slope gets steepest).

Background - we were building another design that was developed quickly by the builder. It has been eviscerated by people here and elsewhere - for good reason. Our builder just fired us as our fixed price job is now not profitable after spending 2yrs trying to get council approval. We are taking this opportunity to start again with something that fits the block & our lifestyle better and also fits the style of properties in the area (we are building on a subdivided block in The Basin in Melbourne). And, most importantly, meets the raft of conditions the Council have on our previous design.

Location: Eastern Melbourne at the foot of the Dandenongs.

Goal: KISS and make the home as energy efficient as possible (will be aiming for slab insulation, anticon, R5 roof and R2.5 walls).

Be as mean as you like - I have learned it is better to get it right before we sign with a builder rather than regret it later!



Edit: Upload more recent floorplan

Hey banjoDan

To clarify - when you say KISS - do you mean https://www.kisshouse.co.uk/story/nz-aus/ ?

The majority of passive cooling effects would be hard to pickup from looking at a floor plan.
The big factors to consider would be;
- thermal mass of the ext & int walls
- insulation
- roof ventilation

For example, a single pitched roof with vaulted ceilings would be the best solution in this case with regards to your roof ventilation, but there are a lot of other factors to consider also.

What conditions are applicable from council?

Lol - Keep It Simple Stupid

Council conditions are things like windows that needed to be obscured, etc, use these plants, basic stuff that most councils want yet somehow the builder didn't take into account. I've got plenty of previous posts here about them if interested.

hahaha - I've honestly never heard that before!

I'll have a look back in the posts now
unable to read the dimensions to attempt a reproduction and variations to your plan but there are no north facing windows, big windows facing south west in the bedroom, there's a lot of wasted space in the master suite and if you have small children it will be a hike to go upstairs and then down again if the kids need you in the night..what are the small spaces next to the upstairs powder room, are there any good views in what direction, do you plan for a driveway down to the rear shed, what is the total width and length of the block, the allowed set back needed between front boundary and carport and maximum total sqm that you don't want to exceed??
Excellent questions oklouise!

Yes, the dimensions are pretty hard to read. The downside of using a free tool to create it (I don't have the energy to reproduce it right now and am working on how to get a more readable copy out of it - I've attached a better copy if you ignore the mismatch part way down).

I feel it's a bit hard to create north facing windows with the orientation of the block (I could put one on the left hand wall (when looking at plan) of the living room but more than likely it would end up needing to be obscured due to overlooking rules (one of the problems with the last plan) - hence the large window at the front instead.

The large windows at the rear will be high in the wall - start at 1.7m above floor level (again due to overlooking rules) hence why I made them wider. Figured they are high enough it shouldn't be too bad.

Master - yes, agree it is a little odd but it allows for us to do things like put the wife's sewing in there or a desk for WFH or even a sitting area. No little kids anymore so that's not an issue. Because of the slope on the block we have to do split level or by the time we get to the rear of the house we will need big expensive retaining walls and fill.

Next to the powder room upstairs (originally wasn't there but added to save guests walking all the way to the back of the house for the loo) is a hallway, walk in linen/storage and study.

No views sadly. We are down too low for that and trees/neighbour's houses block them. Only views will be whatever we create in the garden. Out in the backyard will be a large trampoline (takes up much of the yard).

No driveway to the rear shed - in fact shed probably won't stay there - just added it to give me a reference as to where the boundary of the block is. We have easements down the back so need to make sure there is room for access by utilities/council if required. Plan is to put retaining in so that area to "left" of block until end of alfresco can be level and then let it slope back to natural ground level towards the back.

Block is 15.3 wide x 29.5 deep (with a small cutout at the top "left" for the end of the common driveway). It's a battleaxe block so we don't have a street set back. I'm not sure what setback applies to us (need to check with Council) but I have set my plan at the same (actually a teency bit further) as the previous plan which Council was OK with. The only change was that I have stuck the carport in the front - it sits alongside the front neighbour's double carport.

I don't have a max for sqm although we obviously need to be within the max % permissible by Council - alas as per most things it depends what you look at to determine what this should be. I think we are within the permissable.

BanjoDan
Excellent questions oklouise!

Yes, the dimensions are pretty hard to read. The downside of using a free tool to create it (I don't have the energy to reproduce it right now and am working on how to get a more readable copy out of it - I've attached a better copy if you ignore the mismatch part way down).

I feel it's a bit hard to create north facing windows with the orientation of the block (I could put one on the left hand wall (when looking at plan) of the living room but more than likely it would end up needing to be obscured due to overlooking rules (one of the problems with the last plan) - hence the large window at the front instead.

The large windows at the rear will be high in the wall - start at 1.7m above floor level (again due to overlooking rules) hence why I made them wider. Figured they are high enough it shouldn't be too bad.

Master - yes, agree it is a little odd but it allows for us to do things like put the wife's sewing in there or a desk for WFH or even a sitting area. No little kids anymore so that's not an issue. Because of the slope on the block we have to do split level or by the time we get to the rear of the house we will need big expensive retaining walls and fill.

Next to the powder room upstairs (originally wasn't there but added to save guests walking all the way to the back of the house for the loo) is a hallway, walk in linen/storage and study.

No views sadly. We are down too low for that and trees/neighbour's houses block them. Only views will be whatever we create in the garden. Out in the backyard will be a large trampoline (takes up much of the yard).

No driveway to the rear shed - in fact shed probably won't stay there - just added it to give me a reference as to where the boundary of the block is. We have easements down the back so need to make sure there is room for access by utilities/council if required. Plan is to put retaining in so that area to "left" of block until end of alfresco can be level and then let it slope back to natural ground level towards the back.

Block is 15.3 wide x 29.5 deep (with a small cutout at the top "left" for the end of the common driveway). It's a battleaxe block so we don't have a street set back. I'm not sure what setback applies to us (need to check with Council) but I have set my plan at the same (actually a teency bit further) as the previous plan which Council was OK with. The only change was that I have stuck the carport in the front - it sits alongside the front neighbour's double carport.

I don't have a max for sqm although we obviously need to be within the max % permissible by Council - alas as per most things it depends what you look at to determine what this should be. I think we are within the permissable.


your plans don't appear to allow for the thickness of walls and enough circulation space and there doorways missing into the bedrooms and the stairs into the middle of the downstairs lounge make the rooms very difficult to furnish comfortably so based on your block and estimated average room sizes my suggestion allow for parking and a reversing bay, includes all your original rooms within an overall floor area of 60% of your block size for a total floor area of 270 sqm....the downstairs and upstairs don't overlap to keep the wall and roof structures simpler, only one stair that don't steal furniture space or need an extra hall, the outside space between lounge and upstairs dining area would be best used as a terraced garden without a roof to allow northern sun into the downstairs lounge, there's option for extra storage or multi purpose space accessed from either or both sides of the master bedroom and/or lounge and the upstairs study is much bigger to allow for a generous desk, sewing, hobby bench or single bed and to help improve heating, cooling and privacy there's an airlock and porch at front entry, a mudroom between garage and entry and the upstairs powder room can be easily accessed from indoors or outside, the kitchen is more open to the dining and living areas with a separate pantry, the laundry with storage room and, depending on your roof style, there could be a raked ceiling with south facing clerestory windows along the dividing all between upstairs and down
oklouise
BanjoDan
Excellent questions oklouise!

Yes, the dimensions are pretty hard to read. The downside of using a free tool to create it (I don't have the energy to reproduce it right now and am working on how to get a more readable copy out of it - I've attached a better copy if you ignore the mismatch part way down).

I feel it's a bit hard to create north facing windows with the orientation of the block (I could put one on the left hand wall (when looking at plan) of the living room but more than likely it would end up needing to be obscured due to overlooking rules (one of the problems with the last plan) - hence the large window at the front instead.

The large windows at the rear will be high in the wall - start at 1.7m above floor level (again due to overlooking rules) hence why I made them wider. Figured they are high enough it shouldn't be too bad.

Master - yes, agree it is a little odd but it allows for us to do things like put the wife's sewing in there or a desk for WFH or even a sitting area. No little kids anymore so that's not an issue. Because of the slope on the block we have to do split level or by the time we get to the rear of the house we will need big expensive retaining walls and fill.

Next to the powder room upstairs (originally wasn't there but added to save guests walking all the way to the back of the house for the loo) is a hallway, walk in linen/storage and study.

No views sadly. We are down too low for that and trees/neighbour's houses block them. Only views will be whatever we create in the garden. Out in the backyard will be a large trampoline (takes up much of the yard).

No driveway to the rear shed - in fact shed probably won't stay there - just added it to give me a reference as to where the boundary of the block is. We have easements down the back so need to make sure there is room for access by utilities/council if required. Plan is to put retaining in so that area to "left" of block until end of alfresco can be level and then let it slope back to natural ground level towards the back.

Block is 15.3 wide x 29.5 deep (with a small cutout at the top "left" for the end of the common driveway). It's a battleaxe block so we don't have a street set back. I'm not sure what setback applies to us (need to check with Council) but I have set my plan at the same (actually a teency bit further) as the previous plan which Council was OK with. The only change was that I have stuck the carport in the front - it sits alongside the front neighbour's double carport.

I don't have a max for sqm although we obviously need to be within the max % permissible by Council - alas as per most things it depends what you look at to determine what this should be. I think we are within the permissable.


your plans don't appear to allow for the thickness of walls and enough circulation space and there doorways missing into the bedrooms and the stairs into the middle of the downstairs lounge make the rooms very difficult to furnish comfortably so based on your block and estimated average room sizes my suggestion allow for parking and a reversing bay, includes all your original rooms within an overall floor area of 60% of your block size for a total floor area of 270 sqm....the downstairs and upstairs don't overlap to keep the wall and roof structures simpler, only one stair that don't steal furniture space or need an extra hall, the outside space between lounge and upstairs dining area would be best used as a terraced garden without a roof to allow northern sun into the downstairs lounge, there's option for extra storage or multi purpose space accessed from either or both sides of the master bedroom and/or lounge and the upstairs study is much bigger to allow for a generous desk, sewing, hobby bench or single bed and to help improve heating, cooling and privacy there's an airlock and porch at front entry, a mudroom between garage and entry and the upstairs powder room can be easily accessed from indoors or outside, the kitchen is more open to the dining and living areas with a separate pantry, the laundry with storage room and, depending on your roof style, there could be a raked ceiling with south facing clerestory windows along the dividing all between upstairs and down

Oh my god - that's amazing! I love it!! I can't believe you put this together. What did you do that in? And would you be prepared to share it with me so we could use this?

There are a few things that probably need altering (just as with the one I drew up I figured there would be changes once a pro got involved - although not to this extent!) - for instance I think we are too far into the backyard as I believe the bottom 3m needs to be clear for the easements.

My next step was/is to get in contact with Council to get an idea from them if they may be accepting of the plan or if there are issues they can see with it.
BanjoDan
oklouise
BanjoDan
Excellent questions oklouise!

Yes, the dimensions are pretty hard to read. The downside of using a free tool to create it (I don't have the energy to reproduce it right now and am working on how to get a more readable copy out of it - I've attached a better copy if you ignore the mismatch part way down).

I feel it's a bit hard to create north facing windows with the orientation of the block (I could put one on the left hand wall (when looking at plan) of the living room but more than likely it would end up needing to be obscured due to overlooking rules (one of the problems with the last plan) - hence the large window at the front instead.

The large windows at the rear will be high in the wall - start at 1.7m above floor level (again due to overlooking rules) hence why I made them wider. Figured they are high enough it shouldn't be too bad.

Master - yes, agree it is a little odd but it allows for us to do things like put the wife's sewing in there or a desk for WFH or even a sitting area. No little kids anymore so that's not an issue. Because of the slope on the block we have to do split level or by the time we get to the rear of the house we will need big expensive retaining walls and fill.

Next to the powder room upstairs (originally wasn't there but added to save guests walking all the way to the back of the house for the loo) is a hallway, walk in linen/storage and study.

No views sadly. We are down too low for that and trees/neighbour's houses block them. Only views will be whatever we create in the garden. Out in the backyard will be a large trampoline (takes up much of the yard).

No driveway to the rear shed - in fact shed probably won't stay there - just added it to give me a reference as to where the boundary of the block is. We have easements down the back so need to make sure there is room for access by utilities/council if required. Plan is to put retaining in so that area to "left" of block until end of alfresco can be level and then let it slope back to natural ground level towards the back.

Block is 15.3 wide x 29.5 deep (with a small cutout at the top "left" for the end of the common driveway). It's a battleaxe block so we don't have a street set back. I'm not sure what setback applies to us (need to check with Council) but I have set my plan at the same (actually a teency bit further) as the previous plan which Council was OK with. The only change was that I have stuck the carport in the front - it sits alongside the front neighbour's double carport.

I don't have a max for sqm although we obviously need to be within the max % permissible by Council - alas as per most things it depends what you look at to determine what this should be. I think we are within the permissable.


your plans don't appear to allow for the thickness of walls and enough circulation space and there doorways missing into the bedrooms and the stairs into the middle of the downstairs lounge make the rooms very difficult to furnish comfortably so based on your block and estimated average room sizes my suggestion allow for parking and a reversing bay, includes all your original rooms within an overall floor area of 60% of your block size for a total floor area of 270 sqm....the downstairs and upstairs don't overlap to keep the wall and roof structures simpler, only one stair that don't steal furniture space or need an extra hall, the outside space between lounge and upstairs dining area would be best used as a terraced garden without a roof to allow northern sun into the downstairs lounge, there's option for extra storage or multi purpose space accessed from either or both sides of the master bedroom and/or lounge and the upstairs study is much bigger to allow for a generous desk, sewing, hobby bench or single bed and to help improve heating, cooling and privacy there's an airlock and porch at front entry, a mudroom between garage and entry and the upstairs powder room can be easily accessed from indoors or outside, the kitchen is more open to the dining and living areas with a separate pantry, the laundry with storage room and, depending on your roof style, there could be a raked ceiling with south facing clerestory windows along the dividing all between upstairs and down

Oh my god - that's amazing! I love it!! I can't believe you put this together. What did you do that in? And would you be prepared to share it with me so we could use this?

There are a few things that probably need altering (just as with the one I drew up I figured there would be changes once a pro got involved - although not to this extent!) - for instance I think we are too far into the backyard as I believe the bottom 3m needs to be clear for the easements.

My next step was/is to get in contact with Council to get an idea from them if they may be accepting of the plan or if there are issues they can see with it.

i use a vintage CAD program that is no longer available but as you already know the basic programs don't create the plans as you need to start with the size and restrictions of the block and an understanding of standard building practices that are either from personal knowledge or only included in sophisticated professional programs and work backwards from there...if you can identify any other obvious issues i can adjust this rough plan and then you'll need to discuss with council and employ a local professional to redraw to suit local restriction ..i've attached a black empty plan that might be easier to read and copy increased the rear setback to 3m and if you list the location and preferred size of each window i can add in suitable windows but i'm only able to make a JPEG copy of the plan that you are very welcome to use and then that can be redrawn to allow for differences in wall thickness, building materials, BASIX restriction etc and that's much too detailed for this format but, once you're confident about the external walls and window locations, you may have some other preferences for alternative kitchen arrangements and that can be planned separately





oklouise
i use a vintage CAD program that is no longer available but as you already know the basic programs don't create the plans as you need to start with the size and restrictions of the block and an understanding of standard building practices that are either from personal knowledge or only included in sophisticated professional programs and work backwards from there...if you can identify any other obvious issues i can adjust this rough plan and then you'll need to discuss with council and employ a local professional to redraw to suit local restriction ..i've attached a black empty plan that might be easier to read and copy increased the rear setback to 3m and if you list the location and preferred size of each window i can add in suitable windows but i'm only able to make a JPEG copy of the plan that you are very welcome to use and then that can be redrawn to allow for differences in wall thickness, building materials, BASIX restriction etc and that's much too detailed for this format but, once you're confident about the external walls and window locations, you may have some other preferences for alternative kitchen arrangements and that can be planned separately






Yeah, I started with the block and knowing that I wanted the car accommodation in the top "right" corner and just started building from there. What should wall widths be by the way as the tool I used allows you to configure that when drawing.

The window you added to the master I think needs to come out - it will just collect western sun. I suspect also the windows in Bed 4 and the study will end up needing to be obscured as the neighbour's house is just there but that will come out when we have a professional do up the final drawings.

Yes please, if you can give me a JPEG that is a great place for us to start and we are already well ahead of where we would have been without your help. I cannot tell you how appreciative I am!!

By the way, the kitchen is awesome and we love it!!
BanjoDan
oklouise
i use a vintage CAD program that is no longer available but as you already know the basic programs don't create the plans as you need to start with the size and restrictions of the block and an understanding of standard building practices that are either from personal knowledge or only included in sophisticated professional programs and work backwards from there...if you can identify any other obvious issues i can adjust this rough plan and then you'll need to discuss with council and employ a local professional to redraw to suit local restriction ..i've attached a black empty plan that might be easier to read and copy increased the rear setback to 3m and if you list the location and preferred size of each window i can add in suitable windows but i'm only able to make a JPEG copy of the plan that you are very welcome to use and then that can be redrawn to allow for differences in wall thickness, building materials, BASIX restriction etc and that's much too detailed for this format but, once you're confident about the external walls and window locations, you may have some other preferences for alternative kitchen arrangements and that can be planned separately






Yeah, I started with the block and knowing that I wanted the car accommodation in the top "right" corner and just started building from there. What should wall widths be by the way as the tool I used allows you to configure that when drawing.

The window you added to the master I think needs to come out - it will just collect western sun. I suspect also the windows in Bed 4 and the study will end up needing to be obscured as the neighbour's house is just there but that will come out when we have a professional do up the final drawings.

Yes please, if you can give me a JPEG that is a great place for us to start and we are already well ahead of where we would have been without your help. I cannot tell you how appreciative I am!!

By the way, the kitchen is awesome and we love it!!

wall thicknesses depend on chosen building materials and i use 250 external and 100 internal as anything else becomes too complex to produce for a rough draft and the fine details will be polished by a professional with a better program that we have access to....and depending on your local climate and subject to the standard passive building design recommendation and Basix (see yourhome.gov.au for suggestions) i'm not always so keen to be very strict about eg avoiding all western windows as firstly your block doesn't have strict east west alignment and unless you have mild weather all year round, it's sometimes good to have a little late afternoon sunshine especially if that might be the only view or opportunity for cross ventilation if privacy can be controlled with frosted glass and the overheating is limited to a short period of time and can be controlled with external blinds if necessary but ideal window locations can be finalised with your designer, the plans i've already posted are Jpegs and glad that you both like the kitchen
Thanks again for everything. I appreciate it immensely!
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