Things you forget - summary page 32
Page 32 of 62
This is starting to look like a long list. I am adding a few things to my check list. Thanks to all.
This is starting to look like a long list. I am adding a few things to my check list. Thanks to all.
Just to add to the skylights in bathrooms thing. We don't have room or budget for a skylight into our ensuite and no way to put a window in so what I'm planning on doing is constructing part of the wall in glass bricks and having a frosted glass door. Still private but should let light in from the master so you can shower in the day without having to turn the light on. When it's built we'll see if it works!
This list has been so invaluable! Thanks to all the contributors, and I'll be adding my own when we get nearer to foundations!
ADMINS ......Thanks for changing the thread title !!
25th July 2013 Update....
BEFORE you sign anything, have you read this thread .........
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66212
13th June 2013
Updated list from Page 27
As always, latest updates are IN RED
This allows anyone following the thread to quickly see new things in the list.
Latest update also includes new section...Things to check in your PCI Inspection
SUGGESTION 1: If you carry out maintenance on the list, please remove existing red tags, and mark the NEW text with red ................
SUGGESTION 2: Where both applicable and appropriate, consider inserting web-links to external products.
SUGGESTION 3: Get a Mod to update the thread title to reflect the new location of the revised list.
Thanks guys for a great resource !!
If there is one recurring theme throughout these posts it's check, check and triple-check your plans !!
Check your elevations, your window and door placements (and opening sides), check your electrical points, light switches and GPO positions.
Ensure these are fitted at the height and position (not behind doors) that you want.
Think about EVERYTHING you want to hang on walls, pictures, televisions, speakers, coat hooks, clothes dryer, toilet paper, towels.... and put extra wood in to support them.
Think about EVERYTHING you have that uses electrical power, where are you going to plug it in ?
Think about your home entertainment requirements, speaker, video, telephone, data and audio cables.
Another recurring theme is when you've done all that, take plenty of photographs during the build, especially during the framing stage, with a tape measure or similar visible in the picture
Site works and administration:
• Keep diary of all dates once construction starts and all notes of conversations, emails, costs etc with builder in case something needs to be discussed and clarified
• Don’t get builder to do everything just what can’t be completed post build. Save 30% mark-up on items like carpets, floor tiles, wardrobe shelving, paving, painting, fireplaces etc
• Consider getting you flooring laid as part of the builders contract so that it is covered by builders insurance
• Ask for excess sand to be removed from site if not required
• Shop around and compare inclusions between builders, if you want something that isn’t offered by one you may be able to get it included or at least find out the price difference
• Visit builders selection rooms before signing contract to find out what is included and how much it costs
• Ask council/builder for refund of kerb / path damage bond if it has been paid
• Apply for stamp duty refund if built within guidelines and timeframe
• If you are doing a knockdown rebuild and have gas, make sure you allow for abolishment fees for gas / electrical services if applicable
• Check you haven’t paid land tax on improved land
• Ask bank how much they value your property once completed
• Find out land value from the Valuer General
• Check builder doesn’t bury any rubbish on site
• Obtain all warranties, instruction manuals, serial numbers for all products installed in the house from the builder
• Ensure copies of your plans and personal details are not dumped into skip
• Make sure contract reflects that the start date is the date that work commences onsite and not the later date after provision of evidence of funding.
• Check that contract only allows for rainy days being claimed before roofing is installed and only if there has been more than 5mm of rain.
• Make sure you know the fall/slope of your land, the flatter your lot the less site costs you’ll incur, most site costs go to cut and fill as well as building retaining walls. Most volume builders won’t build on sites with a fall greater than 3 metres.
• Check the orientation of your block, if the front is north facing then ideally your living areas should be in the front of the house with the bedrooms on the cooler east side, if the rear is north facing, best location for living area is at the back.
• Check the Building Commission's website for a list of builders that it has prosecuted:
(Victoria) http://www.buildingcommission.com.au/ww ... 35-m-s.asp
• The other thing we did was get an independent build inspector on the final visit. We pretended he was thru the bank and they wouldn't release funds until everything was fixed prior to handover
• At the end of your build, prior to final inspection, check your provisional sums and ask your builder to confirm the final PS costings. Query them on it and ask to see a breakdown of invoices for the PS work performed. You should be entitled to a refund for "under-costs" or items not used (ie, they PS you for a concrete pump but did not use one)
• Wear gumboots before going to your site Keep a pair in your car if building over your wet season
• If you are keeping any disturbed earthworks / rocks on site ensure you tell the builder where you want them stockpiled, can you get a bob-cat to the pile once the house is built or will it be in the way ?
• Ensure ALL measurements are on your plans regarding placement of powerpoints gas outlets etc, check the height is correct for these items, also check height of external wall-mounted lights
House:
• Install frames on open doorways in case you want to install doors later
• If you can’t afford to install a door in certain areas and rooms, install a fastwall lintel so it’s easier and cheaper to install later
• Do any doors come with security locks?
• Ask what locks are keyed-alike so you don’t end up with multiple keys to lock up doors
• Are door stops included and installed?
• Consider installing a secure internal door from garage into house instead of lightweight non lockable standard door
• Consider rebating external stacker/sliding doors so that the door sill is flush with the concrete slab and there is no ledge
• Check what type of timber the external doors are made of, as cheap timber will warp after being exposed to elements after 12 months, consider using fibreglass external doors instead
• Upgrade carpet underlay
• Can skirting boards be laid by builder after handover if organising own flooring installation?
• Check building specifications contract about skirting for tiles, floor tile is sometimes counted as skirting tile and builder will only tile skirting to 200mm, if you want full height skirting you may need to pay extra
• Do you have fly screens and window locks?
• Check all windows open in preferred direction
• Check which windows are fixed and which ones can be opened, important if you want cross air ventilation
• Check location of windows is exactly where you want on final plan before signing off. Also check window outlook, would you get a better view if a window was on a different wall ?
• Check window heights....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HOLH ... window.JPG
• Check all windows are the same (sliding/awning) and from the same manufacturer so you don’t have two sets of keys
• Check window position, are they in the center of the rooms or do they look centered from the outside of the house ? Where do you want them to be ?
• Think about location of water tanks, clothesline, bbq, shed, vege patch, letterbox type
• Perhaps include letterbox in building contract, if you want to build one after handover consider materials and ask builder to leave any leftover bricks behind
• Insulate west wall for radiant heat with glare-shield or something similar, see your energy assessor to see if the whole house should be done
• Ensure insulation is installed correctly.........
http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/pro ... 01/3917618
• Install or extend eaves
• If you want passive heating/cooling and the rear of your house is north facing, locate veranda/pergola/alfresco to the side and not the back, preferably the west side as extra shading to the house from the sun
• Keep your floor-plan shallow, the sun can’t penetrate more than 4 metres through standard 7 foot windows if you want lots of natural light and you don’t want to install skylights.
• Check the location of the crossover matches the location of the garage for the house you want to build, while you can reverse the floor-plan it may impact negatively on your energy efficiency if your living areas are on the opposite side to where you want them to get the most sun and light.
• Consider double glazing for your windows as appropriate or consider a "High performance" glass
• Check location of manhole, in relation to ducted heating if it is too close to all the big ducts then you can’t access any other part of the roof space
• Duckboards in ceiling cavity
• "Whirly Bird" or other roof ventilator(s) . Solar powered ones also available
• Bathrooms to have floor to ceiling tiling at time of tender or contract
• Check height of tiling in bathroom - if you are not tiling to the ceiling, make sure it will accommodate the vertical rail of a hand-held shower
• Sliding (mirror) wardrobe doors
• If you are having an attic pull down man hole thing ... in your garage, clear of door motor and tracks
• Lock on any door from the garage to the house
• Solid door and deadlocks for security
• Add sliding cavity door to ensuite so bedroom or WIR doesn't get full of steam
• Put in a door in the hallway between the front and back of house to shut it off
• Consider inter blind door for laundry
• Clothes hamper built into laundry cupboards
• Hanging rail under laundry overhead cupboards
• If you have a large foyer/entrance, consider asking for an extra linen cupboard/storage cupboard designed in. You can still leave enough room for a pretty table and mirror but have enough cupboard space to store things away and keep your new house looking tidy
• Double doors to media room / lounge can look good
• Seals on external doors / internal and external garage doors / roller doors
• Some people say skylights in every room, others say they wouldn't want daylight all the time in their pantry or WIR. Your call !
Structural:
• Warranty if you install things yourself (ie you put tiles down and later slab cracks, who will replace the tiles)
• Be aware of the INTERNAL dimensions of your garage. Can you park a 4WD drive in there WITH a tow bar fitted?
• Allow for wall thickness and door / pillar thickness too
• Rear garage roller door - allows incredible access (Double-hinge doors may be an even better option)
• Skylights to bathrooms / toilets / hallways can help save energy costs
• If fitting a skylight to the bedroom make sure it can be "switched off"
• White Ant treatment / barrier / chemical / re-treatment (Photos of pipe locations)
• Ask for a big shelving unit or a cabinet in the garage
• Perhaps consider taller doors if you're raising your ceiling height
• See if you can make the staircase wider than normal for moving stuff upstairs
• Hand-rail on both sides of the stairs
• Have your insect screens and window locks supplied at the same time as the windows
• Insist on a three-coat paint job (1 * sealer, 2 * top coats) / Use a premium paint product for a longer-lasting finish
• Ask for 2 rolled coats of paint on the inside. Otherwise some painters might spray the first coat and roll the second. This can sometimes result in walls that scratch easily, streaked and over spray on window frames
• Eaves for energy saving
• Raised ceilings
• Check cornices on bulkheads…..Do you want cornices there?
• For split level homes make sure the builder does brick stairs if you are tiling as you can't tile wooden stairs
• Double rebated entry door jambs. Double rebated door jambs allows you to fit a fly wire or security door without the need for costly modifications
• Check if security doors (especially front) are included
• Install extra noggings / studs / trimmers for mounting heavy pictures, TV's, projectors, screens
• As above for curtain tracks / blinds etc
• Tiles laid with appropriate adhesive
• Consider sealing external holes where vermin could enter, fire resistant mesh / expanding foam
• Noggings for hooks for school bags / jackets / dog leads in laundry / hall / cupboard as required
• Consider making the windows "standard" sizes..See what ready-made blinds / curtains are available and make the windows these sizes to save tailor-made costs
• Internal insulation, particularly to help cut down sound noise, what's in the room behind the wall where the oven / toilets / split system airconditioner / water pipes are ??
• If you're serious about reducing sound transmission, Google is your friend, but look for "Sound insulation" (different to thermal insulation) "door seals" including top and bottom / stud construction /
http://www.raven.com.au .........Search for Noise
• Also, Where is the garage, will you need SoundCheck plasterboard or additional insulation so opening the roller dor, having the car coming in / going out doesn't wake someone ?
• Do you want translucent (no see through) glass on the front door
Lighting:
• Consider lights in the roof with switch near manhole, or power-point so you can use a string of "party lights"
• Consider power points in the floor for table and floor lamps so you don’t have to run extension leads across the floor and behind furniture
• Check that light fixtures also includes the light globes
• Install light and power point in walk-in pantry (consider sensor light ?)
• Install outdoor light near clothesline (switch in laundry ??)
• Consider external lights around perimeter of house so wiring goes through the bricks
• Light switch inside access door from garage into house so you can turn on hall light before entering the house at night
• Dim lights (LED or sensor) in hallway(s) for night-lighting (150mm - 600mm above floor level)
• Stairwell lighting...Maybe small LED lights in the wall (wall washers)
• How will you access / change the stair light if the fitting is "above" the stairs ?
• A small light in the feature niche in the en-suite that’s low voltage (for midnight pees
• 12v/LED Lighting - check that they EACH have appropriate and properly fitted covers in the ceiling space. Don't want to be singing the Bloodhound Gang "The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire!"
• Sensor lights and exhaust fan in toilets. Save energy costs as they will turn themselves off
• We have downlights in the eaves at the back of our house - they are fantastic - both for entertaining and so much better than flood/spot lights
Electrical:
• Do you want three-phase power ?
• If you are getting three-phase power the electrical supplier probably charges extra for this meter, is the meter cost included in your building contract ?
• Install as many power points and TV points as you can, it’s cheaper now than later
• Install power point in hallways for vacuuming.
• Install power point near cordless phone
• Install power point(s) for charging mobile phones (kitchen / hall / bedroom / study as applicable to you)
• Powerpoints with built-in USB Charging
Something like this...... http://sockitz.com.au/
• Powerpoint near slow-combustion wood heater for fan forced function
• Install power points on internal back walls for external lighting, sensor lights etc
• Consider installing extra power points in garage for second fridge and dryer
• Consider double power point installed in front eaves for Xmas lights
• Consider power point in ceiling cavity can be useful for Christmas lights along roof perimeter
• Remember external power point to connect pump for water tanks or along internal wall closest to tanks
• Provision for power and lighting in shed (Run conduit if necessary to eventual shed location)
• Consider power point in broom cupboard if you have rechargeable dust buster or vacuum cleaner
• Install electrical conduit under driveway or path to provide 12 volt electricity for garden lighting
• Check heights of power points and antenna points (or some sort of "rear access") for wall mounted tv (don't forget VCR / PVR / Audio if required)
• Install door bell, important if you have a big house and living areas at rear of house
• Drill hole in brick(s) for brickies to use these brick(s) at doorbell / external light(s) locations
• Check location of light switches, if installing double doors where none existed originally ensure the light switches aren’t hidden behind doors when opened
• Make sure electrical cabling allows for bats insulation to external walls
• Allow extra TV points and power points in main living area so you can change orientation of the room and position of the TV
• Cable from garage / carport to inside behind front door to put switch to open / close roller doors from inside
• If not installing ducted heating /cooling install lights in the ceiling cavity with light switch next to manhole opening
• Install household surge protector at meter
• If you have under bench microwave, consider installing an extra power switch at nearest power point so it can be easily switched on/off to save power
• Move electrical switchboard into garage (or under stairs in two storey house) for security and easier access
• Install single GPO in meter box for reticulation system
• Install lots of conduits from ceiling cavity into internal wall, you don’t need to connect them all and the electrician can install blank plates ready for future use when needed
• Add a conduit for phone and TV cable for Foxtel installation, if it’s on a cavity wall there is no problem if it isn’t it’s a real pain.
• Install conduits in single brick external walls
• Install junction boxes to run outside lights, 5 downlights under eaves are equivalent to same power usage as two exterior lights
• Install junction boxes instead of lights if unsure of light selections
• Consider installing outdoor TV point
• Talk to electrician about multiple circuits for load-spreading
• If considering pool think about getting circuit for pool equipment now
• Cable trays in ceiling for power & data cables
• 32 Amp power outlet in garage - within 5 years we will see a far greater uptake of Hybrid / Electric cars, these vehicle will require a standard 32 Amp outlet
• Power points in the master bedroom en suite for electric tooth brushes, hair iron and dryer on BOTH (for DH & DW) sides of vanity, could be fitted under / on side of vanity / cupboard to keep cords tidy
• Smoke detector locations
• Consider a waterproof outdoor power point for future pool or area where you may need power
• Add "Master" switch near front door to allow all "non-essential" circuits to be turned off when leaving the house
• Light(s) under stairs, both in the "entry" AND in the "return"
• Power point for washing machine / clothes dryer
• If you have stairwell lighting, how are you going to change the globe ? Do you need a ladder or is there a better option ?
• See end for DATA suggestions
Plumbing:
• Solar water heating
• Rain water tanks for garden watering / car washing
• Rainwater plumbing for washing machine / laundry / toilets as per regulations in your State
• 2 recycled water taps
• Move laundry taps to be down in the cabinet next to the machine
• Double storey house? ... Have your builder connect a tap to exterior balconies
• Check downpipe locations, last thing you want is a downpipe in front of your feature wall.
• Insulate cold water pipe and hot water pipe.
• Install capped water point and power points to the roof if you intend on getting evaporative cooling installed later
• If installing evaporative cooling, run in the PVC drainpipe for excess water in brick cavity at pre-lay
• If you are having wall-mounted split system airconditioner(s) on an INTERNAL (i.e not an external ) wall, ask your builder about a TUNDISH for the condensate drain
• Consider floor drainage holes in laundry, bathroom and kitchen. Makes cleaning easier and handy if appliances flood/leak (need replenishing with water to keep water-seal from sewer)
• Install hot water system as close as possible to kitchen as that is where you use small amounts of hot water the most
• If your house is long consider two hot water units
• Check the location of your HWS, it might be in the way between where your laundry exit is and the location of your clothesline. You might not have enough room to get past easily, especially if its on blind side of house
• If you are having a gas instantaneous HWS (or solar with gas boosted) consider getting the heater fitted into a recessed box, most of the heater manufacturers make them
• Also, check the location of your HWS to ensure that there is "side-of-the-house" access as required
• Check that there will be room for the side gate to open and the HWS tank is not in the way
• Make sure your hot water heater is seated on a concrete footing (or slab) rather than on top of the ground
• Provision for grey-water collection from laundry, baths and showers if not connecting straight away
• Consider locations of outside taps, do you need two right next to each other if they will be split by a pool fence, so you can have one in the pool area
• Pre lay any storm-water pipes under paving, paths and driveways, saves digging up later
• Consider pre-laying the toilet vent PVC pipe in the wall cavity so is not visible other than outlet through roof
• Install extra outdoor taps for backyard as garden hose is often not long enough to reach entire space
• Make sure taps are placed at correct spots on drawings
• Check location of downpipes
• Consider placement of Front Loader Washing Machine / Dryer...Extend laundry bench and position of washing machine taps / power point(s) as required
• If you have a two-story house how will the water supply and drain pipes get up there ? Do they need to box in cupboards or is there a better way ? Can they be out-of-the-way ?
• Use excess insulation bats to insulate around your bath before it is boxed in
• If you have a two-story house with all the bathrooms upstairs, consider a shower in the downstairs powder room in case someone (say) breaks a leg and cannot climb the stairs
Services:
• For ducted vacuuming measure the distance between ducts on the plans to ensure the hoses are long enough to reach the entire house or invest in a longer hose
• Check site for closest gas point, water point and phone conduit, builder will use the closest path to connect these services which may not be what you want/expect.
• Consider exhaust fan in the laundry or opening window // check that venting from exhausts in bathrooms and kitchen goes outside, not to roofs space. If you have sarking under your tiles you may not be able to vent into the roof space
• Lay a 4” PVC pipe under driveway before it’s laid so water pipe can be laid for reticulated water to front garden
• Check drainage for backyard, ensure drains connected to downpipes
• Ensure security sensors will not be behind curtains, doors etc….
• Multiple Outdoor taps (particularly on a large home)
Heating / Cooling:
• Multiple Split system Air Con units that run off a single compressor. Cool only the rooms being used, can work out cheaper on energy costs
• Provision for split air conditioners if installing later, think about location in relation to external walls
• If installing a split system air conditioner, run a separate circuit from the indoor unit to a junction box on external wall for the outdoor unit and an interconnecting cable between the two units.
• Check the location of ceiling vents for heating and cooling in bedrooms so they aren’t directly above occupants heads when beds are moved in
• Consider zoned heating so bedrooms and living areas are on separate lines
• Ducted air conditioning vent in laundry and down stairs toilet if required
• Under-floor heating, either for whole house or just wet areas (or at least your ensuite
Kitchen:
• Check size of fridge recess as most Korean fridges Samsung, LG etc are 900mm wide which is standard width of recess, ask to increase to 1000mm to cover all brands.
• Check fridge depth if you might consider one of the “larger” units. Don't forget to allow clearance for "French doors or draws on some larger fridges
• If you may want a "large" fridge at some later time, consider having the cavity built the required size but temporary "filling" the excess space with a small broom cupboard or similar
http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/up ... jNaX_c.jpg
• If the fridge is in the pantry check which way fridge dor opens with regard to clearance of the pantry door, so you have to have to actually enter the pantry to open the fridge door ?
• Provision for water tap in fridge recess for future proofing
• Alternatively don’t install water tap behind fridge, install it inside kitchen cupboards instead
• And maybe a water filter too ?
• Check dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, fridge, microwave spaces will fit the models you want
• Check height of rangehood so you don’t hit your head when cooking over stove
• Check cupboard height
• Size of pot draws... builder is offering 3 sets of pot draws, but two of them are so skinny that you can't fit any thing in them (one is oversized)
• Get adjustable shelves in kitchen cupboards for different sized items
• Useful link if you want those soft closing drawers and want a more affordable option
http://www.tim-and-tina.com/
• Soft-close doors ALSO consider for all other cupboards / vanities / linen etc..
• Proximity of windows to gas cooktop - will a breeze coming in the window affect the cooking flame?
• Careful where dishwasher is positioned - you don't want to have to close the dishwasher to open the cupboard that clean dishes go in
• Ensure you specify in your contract that splashback must be installed as 'one piece' 'no joins' 'single sheet of glass', because the builder may use "off-cuts" and install your splashback as 3 pieces (for example)
• Mitered edges, waterfall benches in kitchen
• Location of overhead cupboards in kitchen, is the face flush with wall? Ours wasn’t and I had to get it amended
• Height of kitchen bench
• More cupboards in the kitchen. Storage is never enough
• if appropiate consider have your pantry door made as a joinery door for a seamless look
• Install power points on kitchen island....One the end facing "out" or in the face at the ends, where do you want them ?
• Consider having a water filter installed at the kitchen sink
• Proximity of windows to gas cook-top - will a breeze coming in the window affect the cooking flame?
• Light and exhaust fan in pantry if required, but maybe NOT a skylight, it can be best to store food in dark conditions
• Location of waste bin (also recycling / green waste). Consider built-in bins or slide-out bins
• Concealed powerpoints for charging your phone / tablet (drop down door or slide-up-and-in-draw
http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r59 ... 83a3-1.jpg
• If you have an undermount sink are you having a draining board ?
Bathroom:
• Think about window size in bathrooms, big windows can make bathrooms feel cold
• Frosted windows on toilets/bathrooms or consider painted white for better night-time privacy
• Don't have toilet windows that cannot be properly closed / sealed (ie, those with just fly-wire at the top)
• Check which way shower doors open and stipulate door opening direction in contract for all doors (entry, pantry, wardrobes, shower, internal)
• Height of shower screen, Important if you have put in higher ceilings
• Ask for tiles to be cleaned and sealed in wet areas so grout doesn’t stain, especially around toilet bowls
• Check location of taps in shower so you don’t have to retract arm through the water after turning hot water on
• Wall mount bathroom taps saves water pooling around taps and easier to clean
• Consider installing an open shower recess instead of shower cabinet
• If you're having a double-shower, get two shower-heads
• Consider adding glass-shield to both sides of shower screens
• Consider nib walls between shower recess and vanity
• Think about where you want a medicine cabinet?
• Vanitys, Do they have draws or cupboards, What do you want ?
• Do you want privacy locks in bathrooms?
• Small alcoves (or glass shelves) in the showers to put shampoos and soap so they don't all end up on the shower floor (Scala glass shelf from Reece)
(http://www.reece.com.au/bathrooms/products/2261358 )
• If you have the habit of placing a bathmat outside shower door, make sure that it is not in the way where the bathroom door opens/closes
• Now I have frameless showers screens installed, with silicon down the sides between the glass and wall, it would have been better to have inset channels in the wall before the tiles went in
• Consider "Glass bricks" for one bathroom wall (but I'd select the non-see-through ones
Bedroom:
• Think about sliding doors for built in robes, not just for saving space but also so you’re not restricted on placement of furniture
• Delete all shelving for walk in robes and built in robes if sourcing own shelving after handover and ensure clothes rails aren’t installed as well
• Consider increasing width of built in robes, standard width is 500mm which catches on clothes when closing door
• Check line of sight when people walk in front door and master suite door is open
• Do the walls need sound insulation, what is on the other side of the walls, toilet cistern, TV ??
Laundry:
• Check that laundry trough has bypass drain
• Consider pull out or pull-down ironing board in laundry for quick ironing jobs
• Drying cupboard in laundry, install heating duct in cupboard to dry clothes
• Lots of linen cupboard space
• Consider a “hanging rod” fitted under overhead cupboards
• Consider ventilation in the laundry
• Sliding entry door, easier when sorting through clothes (takes less internal room)
• I used a 'drop-in' style laundry tub - into a long run of bench top (same laminate as kitchen) for a streamlined look
• Tall cupboard in laundry minus shelves to take vacuum cleaner, ironing board & brooms
• If you will be wall-mounting your dryer get the chippy to install timber for the brackets, if you are going for a large (USA style) gas dryer, fit vent in walls
http://jpmark.com.au/Text/1173135234406 ... 1867-4775/
• Drain in laundry floor in case washing machine floods
• Broom / mop / ironing board storage
• Place for cats litter tray (would a sliding door to the laundry help ?)
• As well as extra noggins / trimmers for wall mounted clothes dryers don't forget an adjacent powerpoint
• Overhead cupboards
• Built in hamper for dirty clothers
• Leave a cupboard (600mm) out, later tell people it's so when you sell it the buyers can out a washing machine or something there....Meanwhile, your fur-kid has a cubby
• Pull-out spray tap for filling buckets on the floor, washing fur-kids.......
Living Areas:
• Check measurements of furniture, allow 12mm for render on walls and don’t forget floor coverings as well when calculating width/height for recesses, alcoves etc
• Ask for wider openings to passageways than the standard, makes it easier to move furniture without having to pull them apart, scratch or bump into corners
• At framing stage, take photos of walls in all rooms before gyprock goes on so you know location of studs and noggins for later You will need this help
• Remember curtains and carpet reduce echo in large open plan areas
• Install sound insulation in internal walls
• If you love hanging lots of pictures, photos etc get builder to install an extra row of nogging so you have a solid row of wood to hang from instead of plasterboard
• Consider installing doors to close off open plan areas, provides greater flexibility when kids get older
• Leave enough space at the side of windows or doors for window coverings. (we have a sliding door with a window either side in our master bedroom and there's not a great deal of space for curtains to pull back against the wall, so they don't cover the window.)
Alfresco / Patio
• Check ceiling height in alfresco is high enough if you want to install a ceiling fan
• Check material used for ceiling roof in alfresco is for outdoors and not indoors
• Install outdoor gas point for a BBQ / heaters or similar)
• Consider external light switches in alfresco
• Consider external power points in alfresco
• Consider speakers / sound for this area (speaker / amp location)
• Consider an extra tap for an outdoor alfresco
• Consider using stainless steel where possible (BBQ frames / lights / fan etc)
• Room to actually fit the BBQ / Sink as desired
•
• Insulation above the alfresco ceiling (may not be included)
• Provision for a Bug Zapper (LED lighting in your alfresco may not attract insects though
• Dimmer switches for alfresco lighting, Probably don't need them "full bright" late in the evening
• Gas / power points for outdoor fire
• Tap for fur-kids water bowl
Garage:
• Consider installing manhole in garage so tradesman can do all the work from inside the garage and not the house
• Lock on garage-access manhole
• Insulation above the garage ceiling (may not be included)
• Check height of garage door in case it needs to be raised for 4WD vehicles and hatchbacks
• Consider workshop/storeroom on side of garage, allows extra room for opening car doors, storing bicycles rather than paying for shed later
• Ensure driveway is cut into the gutter where it joins the road so car doesn’t touch the bottom when pulling into driveway
DATA / HOME ENTERTAINMENT
• Foxtel - Wants data (Check out how many Data points you need, it might be one or two depending if you're on cable or satellite)
• TV - Wants data
• HD Media Players - Wants data
• DVD players - Wants data
• Computer - Wants data
• Printer - Wants data
• TV and / or data point for the fridge
• Networked hard drives - Wants data
• IP Security cameras...Wants data
• Home Security system often requires a second dedicated phone point
• A proper Comms external enclosure... + FTTH Internal Lead In to have an External FTTH ONT mounted inside it.. something like this:
http://www.brenclosures.com.au/nbn-enclosure.htm
• Or get it as part of the full enclosure kit like this
http://www.hagerbr.com.au/enclosures/do ... 0/4386.htm
• A FTTH Compliant Internal Lead In
• Think about (central) location for wireless router
• Location for network hub / Central data / comms location
• Get all your cables for ceiling speakers in whilst building
• Also cables for your LCD / Plasma displays and projector
AFTER THE BUILD ......
P C I
• Check things (downlights etc) that are supposed to be "central" or "lined up" actually are central or lined up
25th July 2013 Update....
BEFORE you sign anything, have you read this thread .........
viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66212
13th June 2013
Updated list from Page 27
As always, latest updates are IN RED
This allows anyone following the thread to quickly see new things in the list.
Latest update also includes new section...Things to check in your PCI Inspection
SUGGESTION 1: If you carry out maintenance on the list, please remove existing red tags, and mark the NEW text with red ................
SUGGESTION 2: Where both applicable and appropriate, consider inserting web-links to external products.
SUGGESTION 3: Get a Mod to update the thread title to reflect the new location of the revised list.
Thanks guys for a great resource !!
If there is one recurring theme throughout these posts it's check, check and triple-check your plans !!
Check your elevations, your window and door placements (and opening sides), check your electrical points, light switches and GPO positions.
Ensure these are fitted at the height and position (not behind doors) that you want.
Think about EVERYTHING you want to hang on walls, pictures, televisions, speakers, coat hooks, clothes dryer, toilet paper, towels.... and put extra wood in to support them.
Think about EVERYTHING you have that uses electrical power, where are you going to plug it in ?
Think about your home entertainment requirements, speaker, video, telephone, data and audio cables.
Another recurring theme is when you've done all that, take plenty of photographs during the build, especially during the framing stage, with a tape measure or similar visible in the picture
Site works and administration:
• Keep diary of all dates once construction starts and all notes of conversations, emails, costs etc with builder in case something needs to be discussed and clarified
• Don’t get builder to do everything just what can’t be completed post build. Save 30% mark-up on items like carpets, floor tiles, wardrobe shelving, paving, painting, fireplaces etc
• Consider getting you flooring laid as part of the builders contract so that it is covered by builders insurance
• Ask for excess sand to be removed from site if not required
• Shop around and compare inclusions between builders, if you want something that isn’t offered by one you may be able to get it included or at least find out the price difference
• Visit builders selection rooms before signing contract to find out what is included and how much it costs
• Ask council/builder for refund of kerb / path damage bond if it has been paid
• Apply for stamp duty refund if built within guidelines and timeframe
• If you are doing a knockdown rebuild and have gas, make sure you allow for abolishment fees for gas / electrical services if applicable
• Check you haven’t paid land tax on improved land
• Ask bank how much they value your property once completed
• Find out land value from the Valuer General
• Check builder doesn’t bury any rubbish on site
• Obtain all warranties, instruction manuals, serial numbers for all products installed in the house from the builder
• Ensure copies of your plans and personal details are not dumped into skip
• Make sure contract reflects that the start date is the date that work commences onsite and not the later date after provision of evidence of funding.
• Check that contract only allows for rainy days being claimed before roofing is installed and only if there has been more than 5mm of rain.
• Make sure you know the fall/slope of your land, the flatter your lot the less site costs you’ll incur, most site costs go to cut and fill as well as building retaining walls. Most volume builders won’t build on sites with a fall greater than 3 metres.
• Check the orientation of your block, if the front is north facing then ideally your living areas should be in the front of the house with the bedrooms on the cooler east side, if the rear is north facing, best location for living area is at the back.
• Check the Building Commission's website for a list of builders that it has prosecuted:
(Victoria) http://www.buildingcommission.com.au/ww ... 35-m-s.asp
• The other thing we did was get an independent build inspector on the final visit. We pretended he was thru the bank and they wouldn't release funds until everything was fixed prior to handover
• At the end of your build, prior to final inspection, check your provisional sums and ask your builder to confirm the final PS costings. Query them on it and ask to see a breakdown of invoices for the PS work performed. You should be entitled to a refund for "under-costs" or items not used (ie, they PS you for a concrete pump but did not use one)
• Wear gumboots before going to your site Keep a pair in your car if building over your wet season
• If you are keeping any disturbed earthworks / rocks on site ensure you tell the builder where you want them stockpiled, can you get a bob-cat to the pile once the house is built or will it be in the way ?
• Ensure ALL measurements are on your plans regarding placement of powerpoints gas outlets etc, check the height is correct for these items, also check height of external wall-mounted lights
House:
• Install frames on open doorways in case you want to install doors later
• If you can’t afford to install a door in certain areas and rooms, install a fastwall lintel so it’s easier and cheaper to install later
• Do any doors come with security locks?
• Ask what locks are keyed-alike so you don’t end up with multiple keys to lock up doors
• Are door stops included and installed?
• Consider installing a secure internal door from garage into house instead of lightweight non lockable standard door
• Consider rebating external stacker/sliding doors so that the door sill is flush with the concrete slab and there is no ledge
• Check what type of timber the external doors are made of, as cheap timber will warp after being exposed to elements after 12 months, consider using fibreglass external doors instead
• Upgrade carpet underlay
• Can skirting boards be laid by builder after handover if organising own flooring installation?
• Check building specifications contract about skirting for tiles, floor tile is sometimes counted as skirting tile and builder will only tile skirting to 200mm, if you want full height skirting you may need to pay extra
• Do you have fly screens and window locks?
• Check all windows open in preferred direction
• Check which windows are fixed and which ones can be opened, important if you want cross air ventilation
• Check location of windows is exactly where you want on final plan before signing off. Also check window outlook, would you get a better view if a window was on a different wall ?
• Check window heights....
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-HOLH ... window.JPG
• Check all windows are the same (sliding/awning) and from the same manufacturer so you don’t have two sets of keys
• Check window position, are they in the center of the rooms or do they look centered from the outside of the house ? Where do you want them to be ?
• Think about location of water tanks, clothesline, bbq, shed, vege patch, letterbox type
• Perhaps include letterbox in building contract, if you want to build one after handover consider materials and ask builder to leave any leftover bricks behind
• Insulate west wall for radiant heat with glare-shield or something similar, see your energy assessor to see if the whole house should be done
• Ensure insulation is installed correctly.........
http://www.abc.net.au/radionational/pro ... 01/3917618
• Install or extend eaves
• If you want passive heating/cooling and the rear of your house is north facing, locate veranda/pergola/alfresco to the side and not the back, preferably the west side as extra shading to the house from the sun
• Keep your floor-plan shallow, the sun can’t penetrate more than 4 metres through standard 7 foot windows if you want lots of natural light and you don’t want to install skylights.
• Check the location of the crossover matches the location of the garage for the house you want to build, while you can reverse the floor-plan it may impact negatively on your energy efficiency if your living areas are on the opposite side to where you want them to get the most sun and light.
• Consider double glazing for your windows as appropriate or consider a "High performance" glass
• Check location of manhole, in relation to ducted heating if it is too close to all the big ducts then you can’t access any other part of the roof space
• Duckboards in ceiling cavity
• "Whirly Bird" or other roof ventilator(s) . Solar powered ones also available
• Bathrooms to have floor to ceiling tiling at time of tender or contract
• Check height of tiling in bathroom - if you are not tiling to the ceiling, make sure it will accommodate the vertical rail of a hand-held shower
• Sliding (mirror) wardrobe doors
• If you are having an attic pull down man hole thing ... in your garage, clear of door motor and tracks
• Lock on any door from the garage to the house
• Solid door and deadlocks for security
• Add sliding cavity door to ensuite so bedroom or WIR doesn't get full of steam
• Put in a door in the hallway between the front and back of house to shut it off
• Consider inter blind door for laundry
• Clothes hamper built into laundry cupboards
• Hanging rail under laundry overhead cupboards
• If you have a large foyer/entrance, consider asking for an extra linen cupboard/storage cupboard designed in. You can still leave enough room for a pretty table and mirror but have enough cupboard space to store things away and keep your new house looking tidy
• Double doors to media room / lounge can look good
• Seals on external doors / internal and external garage doors / roller doors
• Some people say skylights in every room, others say they wouldn't want daylight all the time in their pantry or WIR. Your call !
Structural:
• Warranty if you install things yourself (ie you put tiles down and later slab cracks, who will replace the tiles)
• Be aware of the INTERNAL dimensions of your garage. Can you park a 4WD drive in there WITH a tow bar fitted?
• Allow for wall thickness and door / pillar thickness too
• Rear garage roller door - allows incredible access (Double-hinge doors may be an even better option)
• Skylights to bathrooms / toilets / hallways can help save energy costs
• If fitting a skylight to the bedroom make sure it can be "switched off"
• White Ant treatment / barrier / chemical / re-treatment (Photos of pipe locations)
• Ask for a big shelving unit or a cabinet in the garage
• Perhaps consider taller doors if you're raising your ceiling height
• See if you can make the staircase wider than normal for moving stuff upstairs
• Hand-rail on both sides of the stairs
• Have your insect screens and window locks supplied at the same time as the windows
• Insist on a three-coat paint job (1 * sealer, 2 * top coats) / Use a premium paint product for a longer-lasting finish
• Ask for 2 rolled coats of paint on the inside. Otherwise some painters might spray the first coat and roll the second. This can sometimes result in walls that scratch easily, streaked and over spray on window frames
• Eaves for energy saving
• Raised ceilings
• Check cornices on bulkheads…..Do you want cornices there?
• For split level homes make sure the builder does brick stairs if you are tiling as you can't tile wooden stairs
• Double rebated entry door jambs. Double rebated door jambs allows you to fit a fly wire or security door without the need for costly modifications
• Check if security doors (especially front) are included
• Install extra noggings / studs / trimmers for mounting heavy pictures, TV's, projectors, screens
• As above for curtain tracks / blinds etc
• Tiles laid with appropriate adhesive
• Consider sealing external holes where vermin could enter, fire resistant mesh / expanding foam
• Noggings for hooks for school bags / jackets / dog leads in laundry / hall / cupboard as required
• Consider making the windows "standard" sizes..See what ready-made blinds / curtains are available and make the windows these sizes to save tailor-made costs
• Internal insulation, particularly to help cut down sound noise, what's in the room behind the wall where the oven / toilets / split system airconditioner / water pipes are ??
• If you're serious about reducing sound transmission, Google is your friend, but look for "Sound insulation" (different to thermal insulation) "door seals" including top and bottom / stud construction /
http://www.raven.com.au .........Search for Noise
• Also, Where is the garage, will you need SoundCheck plasterboard or additional insulation so opening the roller dor, having the car coming in / going out doesn't wake someone ?
• Do you want translucent (no see through) glass on the front door
Lighting:
• Consider lights in the roof with switch near manhole, or power-point so you can use a string of "party lights"
• Consider power points in the floor for table and floor lamps so you don’t have to run extension leads across the floor and behind furniture
• Check that light fixtures also includes the light globes
• Install light and power point in walk-in pantry (consider sensor light ?)
• Install outdoor light near clothesline (switch in laundry ??)
• Consider external lights around perimeter of house so wiring goes through the bricks
• Light switch inside access door from garage into house so you can turn on hall light before entering the house at night
• Dim lights (LED or sensor) in hallway(s) for night-lighting (150mm - 600mm above floor level)
• Stairwell lighting...Maybe small LED lights in the wall (wall washers)
• How will you access / change the stair light if the fitting is "above" the stairs ?
• A small light in the feature niche in the en-suite that’s low voltage (for midnight pees
• 12v/LED Lighting - check that they EACH have appropriate and properly fitted covers in the ceiling space. Don't want to be singing the Bloodhound Gang "The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire!"
• Sensor lights and exhaust fan in toilets. Save energy costs as they will turn themselves off
• We have downlights in the eaves at the back of our house - they are fantastic - both for entertaining and so much better than flood/spot lights
Electrical:
• Do you want three-phase power ?
• If you are getting three-phase power the electrical supplier probably charges extra for this meter, is the meter cost included in your building contract ?
• Install as many power points and TV points as you can, it’s cheaper now than later
• Install power point in hallways for vacuuming.
• Install power point near cordless phone
• Install power point(s) for charging mobile phones (kitchen / hall / bedroom / study as applicable to you)
• Powerpoints with built-in USB Charging
Something like this...... http://sockitz.com.au/
• Powerpoint near slow-combustion wood heater for fan forced function
• Install power points on internal back walls for external lighting, sensor lights etc
• Consider installing extra power points in garage for second fridge and dryer
• Consider double power point installed in front eaves for Xmas lights
• Consider power point in ceiling cavity can be useful for Christmas lights along roof perimeter
• Remember external power point to connect pump for water tanks or along internal wall closest to tanks
• Provision for power and lighting in shed (Run conduit if necessary to eventual shed location)
• Consider power point in broom cupboard if you have rechargeable dust buster or vacuum cleaner
• Install electrical conduit under driveway or path to provide 12 volt electricity for garden lighting
• Check heights of power points and antenna points (or some sort of "rear access") for wall mounted tv (don't forget VCR / PVR / Audio if required)
• Install door bell, important if you have a big house and living areas at rear of house
• Drill hole in brick(s) for brickies to use these brick(s) at doorbell / external light(s) locations
• Check location of light switches, if installing double doors where none existed originally ensure the light switches aren’t hidden behind doors when opened
• Make sure electrical cabling allows for bats insulation to external walls
• Allow extra TV points and power points in main living area so you can change orientation of the room and position of the TV
• Cable from garage / carport to inside behind front door to put switch to open / close roller doors from inside
• If not installing ducted heating /cooling install lights in the ceiling cavity with light switch next to manhole opening
• Install household surge protector at meter
• If you have under bench microwave, consider installing an extra power switch at nearest power point so it can be easily switched on/off to save power
• Move electrical switchboard into garage (or under stairs in two storey house) for security and easier access
• Install single GPO in meter box for reticulation system
• Install lots of conduits from ceiling cavity into internal wall, you don’t need to connect them all and the electrician can install blank plates ready for future use when needed
• Add a conduit for phone and TV cable for Foxtel installation, if it’s on a cavity wall there is no problem if it isn’t it’s a real pain.
• Install conduits in single brick external walls
• Install junction boxes to run outside lights, 5 downlights under eaves are equivalent to same power usage as two exterior lights
• Install junction boxes instead of lights if unsure of light selections
• Consider installing outdoor TV point
• Talk to electrician about multiple circuits for load-spreading
• If considering pool think about getting circuit for pool equipment now
• Cable trays in ceiling for power & data cables
• 32 Amp power outlet in garage - within 5 years we will see a far greater uptake of Hybrid / Electric cars, these vehicle will require a standard 32 Amp outlet
• Power points in the master bedroom en suite for electric tooth brushes, hair iron and dryer on BOTH (for DH & DW) sides of vanity, could be fitted under / on side of vanity / cupboard to keep cords tidy
• Smoke detector locations
• Consider a waterproof outdoor power point for future pool or area where you may need power
• Add "Master" switch near front door to allow all "non-essential" circuits to be turned off when leaving the house
• Light(s) under stairs, both in the "entry" AND in the "return"
• Power point for washing machine / clothes dryer
• If you have stairwell lighting, how are you going to change the globe ? Do you need a ladder or is there a better option ?
• See end for DATA suggestions
Plumbing:
• Solar water heating
• Rain water tanks for garden watering / car washing
• Rainwater plumbing for washing machine / laundry / toilets as per regulations in your State
• 2 recycled water taps
• Move laundry taps to be down in the cabinet next to the machine
• Double storey house? ... Have your builder connect a tap to exterior balconies
• Check downpipe locations, last thing you want is a downpipe in front of your feature wall.
• Insulate cold water pipe and hot water pipe.
• Install capped water point and power points to the roof if you intend on getting evaporative cooling installed later
• If installing evaporative cooling, run in the PVC drainpipe for excess water in brick cavity at pre-lay
• If you are having wall-mounted split system airconditioner(s) on an INTERNAL (i.e not an external ) wall, ask your builder about a TUNDISH for the condensate drain
• Consider floor drainage holes in laundry, bathroom and kitchen. Makes cleaning easier and handy if appliances flood/leak (need replenishing with water to keep water-seal from sewer)
• Install hot water system as close as possible to kitchen as that is where you use small amounts of hot water the most
• If your house is long consider two hot water units
• Check the location of your HWS, it might be in the way between where your laundry exit is and the location of your clothesline. You might not have enough room to get past easily, especially if its on blind side of house
• If you are having a gas instantaneous HWS (or solar with gas boosted) consider getting the heater fitted into a recessed box, most of the heater manufacturers make them
• Also, check the location of your HWS to ensure that there is "side-of-the-house" access as required
• Check that there will be room for the side gate to open and the HWS tank is not in the way
• Make sure your hot water heater is seated on a concrete footing (or slab) rather than on top of the ground
• Provision for grey-water collection from laundry, baths and showers if not connecting straight away
• Consider locations of outside taps, do you need two right next to each other if they will be split by a pool fence, so you can have one in the pool area
• Pre lay any storm-water pipes under paving, paths and driveways, saves digging up later
• Consider pre-laying the toilet vent PVC pipe in the wall cavity so is not visible other than outlet through roof
• Install extra outdoor taps for backyard as garden hose is often not long enough to reach entire space
• Make sure taps are placed at correct spots on drawings
• Check location of downpipes
• Consider placement of Front Loader Washing Machine / Dryer...Extend laundry bench and position of washing machine taps / power point(s) as required
• If you have a two-story house how will the water supply and drain pipes get up there ? Do they need to box in cupboards or is there a better way ? Can they be out-of-the-way ?
• Use excess insulation bats to insulate around your bath before it is boxed in
• If you have a two-story house with all the bathrooms upstairs, consider a shower in the downstairs powder room in case someone (say) breaks a leg and cannot climb the stairs
Services:
• For ducted vacuuming measure the distance between ducts on the plans to ensure the hoses are long enough to reach the entire house or invest in a longer hose
• Check site for closest gas point, water point and phone conduit, builder will use the closest path to connect these services which may not be what you want/expect.
• Consider exhaust fan in the laundry or opening window // check that venting from exhausts in bathrooms and kitchen goes outside, not to roofs space. If you have sarking under your tiles you may not be able to vent into the roof space
• Lay a 4” PVC pipe under driveway before it’s laid so water pipe can be laid for reticulated water to front garden
• Check drainage for backyard, ensure drains connected to downpipes
• Ensure security sensors will not be behind curtains, doors etc….
• Multiple Outdoor taps (particularly on a large home)
Heating / Cooling:
• Multiple Split system Air Con units that run off a single compressor. Cool only the rooms being used, can work out cheaper on energy costs
• Provision for split air conditioners if installing later, think about location in relation to external walls
• If installing a split system air conditioner, run a separate circuit from the indoor unit to a junction box on external wall for the outdoor unit and an interconnecting cable between the two units.
• Check the location of ceiling vents for heating and cooling in bedrooms so they aren’t directly above occupants heads when beds are moved in
• Consider zoned heating so bedrooms and living areas are on separate lines
• Ducted air conditioning vent in laundry and down stairs toilet if required
• Under-floor heating, either for whole house or just wet areas (or at least your ensuite
Kitchen:
• Check size of fridge recess as most Korean fridges Samsung, LG etc are 900mm wide which is standard width of recess, ask to increase to 1000mm to cover all brands.
• Check fridge depth if you might consider one of the “larger” units. Don't forget to allow clearance for "French doors or draws on some larger fridges
• If you may want a "large" fridge at some later time, consider having the cavity built the required size but temporary "filling" the excess space with a small broom cupboard or similar
http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/up ... jNaX_c.jpg
• If the fridge is in the pantry check which way fridge dor opens with regard to clearance of the pantry door, so you have to have to actually enter the pantry to open the fridge door ?
• Provision for water tap in fridge recess for future proofing
• Alternatively don’t install water tap behind fridge, install it inside kitchen cupboards instead
• And maybe a water filter too ?
• Check dishwasher, washing machine, dryer, fridge, microwave spaces will fit the models you want
• Check height of rangehood so you don’t hit your head when cooking over stove
• Check cupboard height
• Size of pot draws... builder is offering 3 sets of pot draws, but two of them are so skinny that you can't fit any thing in them (one is oversized)
• Get adjustable shelves in kitchen cupboards for different sized items
• Useful link if you want those soft closing drawers and want a more affordable option
http://www.tim-and-tina.com/
• Soft-close doors ALSO consider for all other cupboards / vanities / linen etc..
• Proximity of windows to gas cooktop - will a breeze coming in the window affect the cooking flame?
• Careful where dishwasher is positioned - you don't want to have to close the dishwasher to open the cupboard that clean dishes go in
• Ensure you specify in your contract that splashback must be installed as 'one piece' 'no joins' 'single sheet of glass', because the builder may use "off-cuts" and install your splashback as 3 pieces (for example)
• Mitered edges, waterfall benches in kitchen
• Location of overhead cupboards in kitchen, is the face flush with wall? Ours wasn’t and I had to get it amended
• Height of kitchen bench
• More cupboards in the kitchen. Storage is never enough
• if appropiate consider have your pantry door made as a joinery door for a seamless look
• Install power points on kitchen island....One the end facing "out" or in the face at the ends, where do you want them ?
• Consider having a water filter installed at the kitchen sink
• Proximity of windows to gas cook-top - will a breeze coming in the window affect the cooking flame?
• Light and exhaust fan in pantry if required, but maybe NOT a skylight, it can be best to store food in dark conditions
• Location of waste bin (also recycling / green waste). Consider built-in bins or slide-out bins
• Concealed powerpoints for charging your phone / tablet (drop down door or slide-up-and-in-draw
http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r59 ... 83a3-1.jpg
• If you have an undermount sink are you having a draining board ?
Bathroom:
• Think about window size in bathrooms, big windows can make bathrooms feel cold
• Frosted windows on toilets/bathrooms or consider painted white for better night-time privacy
• Don't have toilet windows that cannot be properly closed / sealed (ie, those with just fly-wire at the top)
• Check which way shower doors open and stipulate door opening direction in contract for all doors (entry, pantry, wardrobes, shower, internal)
• Height of shower screen, Important if you have put in higher ceilings
• Ask for tiles to be cleaned and sealed in wet areas so grout doesn’t stain, especially around toilet bowls
• Check location of taps in shower so you don’t have to retract arm through the water after turning hot water on
• Wall mount bathroom taps saves water pooling around taps and easier to clean
• Consider installing an open shower recess instead of shower cabinet
• If you're having a double-shower, get two shower-heads
• Consider adding glass-shield to both sides of shower screens
• Consider nib walls between shower recess and vanity
• Think about where you want a medicine cabinet?
• Vanitys, Do they have draws or cupboards, What do you want ?
• Do you want privacy locks in bathrooms?
• Small alcoves (or glass shelves) in the showers to put shampoos and soap so they don't all end up on the shower floor (Scala glass shelf from Reece)
(http://www.reece.com.au/bathrooms/products/2261358 )
• If you have the habit of placing a bathmat outside shower door, make sure that it is not in the way where the bathroom door opens/closes
• Now I have frameless showers screens installed, with silicon down the sides between the glass and wall, it would have been better to have inset channels in the wall before the tiles went in
• Consider "Glass bricks" for one bathroom wall (but I'd select the non-see-through ones
Bedroom:
• Think about sliding doors for built in robes, not just for saving space but also so you’re not restricted on placement of furniture
• Delete all shelving for walk in robes and built in robes if sourcing own shelving after handover and ensure clothes rails aren’t installed as well
• Consider increasing width of built in robes, standard width is 500mm which catches on clothes when closing door
• Check line of sight when people walk in front door and master suite door is open
• Do the walls need sound insulation, what is on the other side of the walls, toilet cistern, TV ??
Laundry:
• Check that laundry trough has bypass drain
• Consider pull out or pull-down ironing board in laundry for quick ironing jobs
• Drying cupboard in laundry, install heating duct in cupboard to dry clothes
• Lots of linen cupboard space
• Consider a “hanging rod” fitted under overhead cupboards
• Consider ventilation in the laundry
• Sliding entry door, easier when sorting through clothes (takes less internal room)
• I used a 'drop-in' style laundry tub - into a long run of bench top (same laminate as kitchen) for a streamlined look
• Tall cupboard in laundry minus shelves to take vacuum cleaner, ironing board & brooms
• If you will be wall-mounting your dryer get the chippy to install timber for the brackets, if you are going for a large (USA style) gas dryer, fit vent in walls
http://jpmark.com.au/Text/1173135234406 ... 1867-4775/
• Drain in laundry floor in case washing machine floods
• Broom / mop / ironing board storage
• Place for cats litter tray (would a sliding door to the laundry help ?)
• As well as extra noggins / trimmers for wall mounted clothes dryers don't forget an adjacent powerpoint
• Overhead cupboards
• Built in hamper for dirty clothers
• Leave a cupboard (600mm) out, later tell people it's so when you sell it the buyers can out a washing machine or something there....Meanwhile, your fur-kid has a cubby
• Pull-out spray tap for filling buckets on the floor, washing fur-kids.......
Living Areas:
• Check measurements of furniture, allow 12mm for render on walls and don’t forget floor coverings as well when calculating width/height for recesses, alcoves etc
• Ask for wider openings to passageways than the standard, makes it easier to move furniture without having to pull them apart, scratch or bump into corners
• At framing stage, take photos of walls in all rooms before gyprock goes on so you know location of studs and noggins for later You will need this help
• Remember curtains and carpet reduce echo in large open plan areas
• Install sound insulation in internal walls
• If you love hanging lots of pictures, photos etc get builder to install an extra row of nogging so you have a solid row of wood to hang from instead of plasterboard
• Consider installing doors to close off open plan areas, provides greater flexibility when kids get older
• Leave enough space at the side of windows or doors for window coverings. (we have a sliding door with a window either side in our master bedroom and there's not a great deal of space for curtains to pull back against the wall, so they don't cover the window.)
Alfresco / Patio
• Check ceiling height in alfresco is high enough if you want to install a ceiling fan
• Check material used for ceiling roof in alfresco is for outdoors and not indoors
• Install outdoor gas point for a BBQ / heaters or similar)
• Consider external light switches in alfresco
• Consider external power points in alfresco
• Consider speakers / sound for this area (speaker / amp location)
• Consider an extra tap for an outdoor alfresco
• Consider using stainless steel where possible (BBQ frames / lights / fan etc)
• Room to actually fit the BBQ / Sink as desired
•
• Insulation above the alfresco ceiling (may not be included)
• Provision for a Bug Zapper (LED lighting in your alfresco may not attract insects though
• Dimmer switches for alfresco lighting, Probably don't need them "full bright" late in the evening
• Gas / power points for outdoor fire
• Tap for fur-kids water bowl
Garage:
• Consider installing manhole in garage so tradesman can do all the work from inside the garage and not the house
• Lock on garage-access manhole
• Insulation above the garage ceiling (may not be included)
• Check height of garage door in case it needs to be raised for 4WD vehicles and hatchbacks
• Consider workshop/storeroom on side of garage, allows extra room for opening car doors, storing bicycles rather than paying for shed later
• Ensure driveway is cut into the gutter where it joins the road so car doesn’t touch the bottom when pulling into driveway
DATA / HOME ENTERTAINMENT
• Foxtel - Wants data (Check out how many Data points you need, it might be one or two depending if you're on cable or satellite)
• TV - Wants data
• HD Media Players - Wants data
• DVD players - Wants data
• Computer - Wants data
• Printer - Wants data
• TV and / or data point for the fridge
• Networked hard drives - Wants data
• IP Security cameras...Wants data
• Home Security system often requires a second dedicated phone point
• A proper Comms external enclosure... + FTTH Internal Lead In to have an External FTTH ONT mounted inside it.. something like this:
http://www.brenclosures.com.au/nbn-enclosure.htm
• Or get it as part of the full enclosure kit like this
http://www.hagerbr.com.au/enclosures/do ... 0/4386.htm
• A FTTH Compliant Internal Lead In
• Think about (central) location for wireless router
• Location for network hub / Central data / comms location
• Get all your cables for ceiling speakers in whilst building
• Also cables for your LCD / Plasma displays and projector
AFTER THE BUILD ......
P C I
• Check things (downlights etc) that are supposed to be "central" or "lined up" actually are central or lined up
Well done again PD. This list is probably the single best article on this site.
The Building Commission ( is that what it is called in Victoria? ) or the Dept. of Fair Trading ( NSW ) should employ you to write a guide to building PD !
I have referred a number of my clients involved in the building process to this ever expanding summary.
Stewie
The Building Commission ( is that what it is called in Victoria? ) or the Dept. of Fair Trading ( NSW ) should employ you to write a guide to building PD !
I have referred a number of my clients involved in the building process to this ever expanding summary.
Stewie
Well done again PD....The Building Commission....should employ you to write a guide to building PD !
Stewie
Stewie
Thanks for your kind words Stewie.
I can only take credit for a couple of dozen or so of them as being my original ideas, the other 500 or whatever are of course contributions from so many others, to all of them the thanks goes.
I'm just a humble word-smith and editor
Cheers,
P_D
Something else to go on the list in the Garage section. If building in areas vulernable to cyclones make sure your garage door is cyclone wind rated. A recent law has just come out that all new homes in cyclone areas (north of bundy) because garage doors were a common failure point up here during cyclone yasi and can do a fair bit of damage. Will probably reduce the insurance cost too, i hope.
here is the link
http://www.masterbuilders.asn.au/buildi ... nd-updates
cheers
pd
here is the link
http://www.masterbuilders.asn.au/buildi ... nd-updates
cheers
pd
Thank you so much to everyone that contributed to this list, it took so long to read and i now have pages andpages of things to check but im sure it will all come in so handy, such valuable information i would of forgotten about.
Like Renski said, thanks to everyone for this list, and to PD for maintaining it! It has proven invaluable for us
Great list, but I wish it had better grammar and spelling. i.e. FOXTEL - wants data, should be 'requires coaxial cabling'. etc and less acronyms, so non technical people can understand the requirements.
thanks for the updated list!
Great list, but I wish it had better grammar and spelling. i.e. FOXTEL - wants data, should be 'requires coaxial cabling'. etc and less acronyms, so non technical people can understand the requirements.
Thank you for your response.
I agree that the list is not totally grammatically correct and has spelling errors in it.
For my part, when I "update" the list if I notice any obvious grammatical, spelling or technical errors in the immediate vicinity of where I am typing, these I do correct.
However, I have not had the time to go through the entire list and check all 624 lines for errors, yes, I just loaded the document into Word and counted them !!
Also, the list is intended as a "Guide" to things that people may forget, things that they hadn't even thought of, things that could be done differently to what they had thought of doing, a heads-up if you will.
It is NOT a definitive guide of everything that must be done, to use your example of Foxtel, the Original Poster (OP) had posted "Foxtel - Wants data".
Not being a plumber, electrician, air-conditioning / refrigeration mechanic or Foxtel Installer I take all of these posts at face value, and don't "edit the facts" unless I know them to be wrong or feel I can add more information.
I have done some research and found that in a pre-wire for Foxtel the requirements are .......
***********************************************************************
From the home control hub to the wallplate.....
2 * Foxtel Approved Cables (3* if stand alone FTA)
2 * Cat 6 cables
From the access point.....
4 * Foxtel Approved Cables to the home control hub for Satellite
1 * Foxtel Approved Cables to the home control hub for Cable
Foxtel approved cable must be RG6 Quad Shield Cable certified as being suitable for Foxtel
Double power point
http://www.foxtel.com.au/cms/groups/web ... 016352.pdf
***********************************************************************
This would have changed the OP's line from one line to nine lines.
Would "The list" really benefit if every item was expanded to a nine-line check-list for each and every item and became around 5,000 lines long ?
It's reasonably long now, hence my attempt to group it into sections !!
So yes, Maybe the OP could have written all of the above, but while I realised Foxtel needed coaxial cable I *personally* didn't know that it ALSO needed data cabling, so in the particular instance you mentioned, for me, "Foxtel needs data" was something that I didn't know and something that I probably needed to know, and as such, the post was relevant to me at least !!
So, for me, if I was considering getting Foxtel, instead of saying to my pre-wire guy....
"I want Foxtel coaxial cable run to....."
I would say....
"I want Foxtel coaxial and data cable run to...."
I think that the whole point of the person who started the list was just this, to create a space where members could put in things that they had missed, that they wished they knew ahead of time and where their experience could benefit others.
I don’t think it was intended as a step-by-step list of everything that must be done in order to construct a new house.
Also, please don't forget that many of the posts are written by people who may not have a university-degree grasp of the English language, or indeed people for whom English is not their first language.
I would much rather people with less English skills then say, yourself, feel free to contribute to this thread without fear of having their language skills criticised than feeling too embarrassed to post for fear that others may mock or criticise their language skills rather than considering the intent of what they are trying to say.
When my kids were in school and used to play sport, the daughter netball and the son football and soccer, I was always so very grateful for the many parents who gave so freely of their time to run the teams and umpire.
Sure, occasionally the umpires made a “bad call”, but I saw that as a result of them not being professional umpires, just parents helping out, giving up their time on their weekends so my kids could enjoy sport and I really grew to appreciate volunteers in our community who did their best when they could be doing other things.
In My Humble Opinion.
P_D
Who cares about the grammar, we just appreciate the hugely helpful list that saved so many of us from making huge mistakes or missing critical details!
Keep up the great work, and know that the last thing most of care about it the grammar.
HD
Keep up the great work, and know that the last thing most of care about it the grammar.
HD
Dear Pepsi_Drinker,
I never for one moment wanted to upset you in any way, and do commend the hard work has gone in maintaining this list.
All I wanted to say that a wrong or misrepresented information sometimes can be more harmful than help, to people who have no clue.
I'm sure there are many users here on this forum who can correct and have an input to the list, which I think is a living file that will keep growing.
You do not need uni degree to have some form of correct grammar and spelling. Again, there is a difference between "wants data" and "requires data cable". No matter how obvious the "wants data" is to majority of people, "requires data cable" would make sense to 99.99% of people reading. Does not need to have full technical details as you mention.
I have taken some of this list and added mine, corrected and used it for myself, and I know how hard it is to keep maintaining.
Don't feel obligated to give all your time. Ask for help. Many would love to contribute any which way.
Again, THANK YOU so much for the list.
I never for one moment wanted to upset you in any way, and do commend the hard work has gone in maintaining this list.
All I wanted to say that a wrong or misrepresented information sometimes can be more harmful than help, to people who have no clue.
I'm sure there are many users here on this forum who can correct and have an input to the list, which I think is a living file that will keep growing.
You do not need uni degree to have some form of correct grammar and spelling. Again, there is a difference between "wants data" and "requires data cable". No matter how obvious the "wants data" is to majority of people, "requires data cable" would make sense to 99.99% of people reading. Does not need to have full technical details as you mention.
I have taken some of this list and added mine, corrected and used it for myself, and I know how hard it is to keep maintaining.
Don't feel obligated to give all your time. Ask for help. Many would love to contribute any which way.
Again, THANK YOU so much for the list.
Well, if you can't stand the incomplete nature of the list, read the whole thread. I have (twice - second time around taking notes). It takes a while, but so does planning a build - especially if you're a perfectionist and likes to check and double check whether or not something has been forgotten.
Well, if you can't stand the incomplete nature of the list, read the whole thread. I have (twice - second time around taking notes). It takes a while, but so does planning a build - especially if you're a perfectionist and likes to check and double check whether or not something has been forgotten.
I think my comments are taken out of proportion here.
I never said the list was incomplete. I just wanted the list to be better presented, since so much effort and time has been put into it.
Surly some of us here can contribute for its presentation. After all, it did help lot of us during our planning and build stage.
Collaboration is the key for everyone's benefit and success.
Pepsi_Drinker has done a great job of presenting a user-friendly list that will save many of us a lot of time by not having to read the thread from beginning to end. Must have taken you a while, Pepsi_Drinker--thank you for doing that. Vatche, if you improve on it, that would be awesome and everyone will be grateful to you too, but in the meantime we have a pretty good guide to help us through the process. Thanks everyone who has contributed.
Amazing thread! Thanks to everyone who has contributed - I've now added copious notes to my already long list for prestart.
Quote:
I can only take credit for a couple of dozen or so of them as being my original ideas, the other 500 or whatever are of course contributions from so many others, to all of them the thanks goes.
I'm just a humble word-smith and editor !!
I'm just a humble word-smith and editor !!
No mate, you are much more than that.--->
A lecturer I had at Uni once said to me copying from one source is plagiarism.
Copying from two or more is research !
Where would we be without copy and paste ?
Ha ! I'd be lost for sure.
Vatche - there is always this excellent guide by forum member "Pugs" with other contributors as well if you go into the Home Theatre and Automation forum
"A Guide to Terminology and Acronyms"
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=41846
Maybe PD could include the link in the Data/ Home Entertainment summary ?
YMMV - IYKWIM
Something else I just learned from this post here
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=64763
is that most HDMI cables won't fit down a standard 25mm conduit.
If you are pre-wiring your home theatre for cables and have installed 25mm conduit to enable you to run those HDMI cables through after hand-over you may not be able to - or one at the most not two or more. You may be forced to either buy special HDMI cables or have the sparky install bigger conduit - 32mm maybe. That however may not be possible for structural reasons.
Stewie
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