Porter Davis homes

I'm on a phone at the moment, but do any of these help? http://www.knaufinsulation.com.au/en-au ... uides.aspx

Thanks Drew01. I'd love to know if anyone knows what clearance (if any) is required around the LED down lights Argus sells. It seems to me the large (sometimes up to 40-50cm) sections that have been left devoid of insulation around each electrical wire for a downlight, is way too much, and while it might make installation for the sparky after plastering easier, completely negates my thousands of dollars worth of SoundScreen!



KDR Chadwick 41 Eastern Suburbs

Why not ring Argus?

Had the garage door issue resolved today. The wrong springs were installed; they needed a different set for their 5.7m wide door; not the usual stuff.

Better call PD directly, Argus has possibly the worst customer service I've encountered. Never returns calls, doesn't install to spec and don't turn up to appointments.

Another blog update;

http://buildingdownunder.blogspot.com.a ... ix-up.html

Did you or anyone get any photos of Juliana Brown laminate? I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Yes thank you Drew01. I was hoping someone might have an idea out of hours.

FYI - To cut a long story short. Regulations state clearance required around each LED downlight is either what the manufacturer of the downlight state, or 50mm either side of the light. I contacted CSR Bradford themselves and obtained the insulation industry installation standards (ICANZ). We spoke with Argus but they directed us back to PD as apparently it's the individual electricians that order the LEDs, and they usually buy the cheapest ones that are on sale at the time (no standard light, which surprised us considering we thought we chose a specific one at WOS). Our BC directed us back to our SS.

Bottom line, our SS contacted the insulation contractors, and 4th time lucky, with their boss there to ensure it was done correctly, our SoundScreen insulation was actually cut to size, with strapping between the joists to help it stay in place and with only 100mm holes cut out for the future down lights.

So glad our 'independent' picked up the issue and we stood our ground and it was finally fixed before the plaster was installed. (despite the weeks delay it cost us)


KDR Chadwick 41 Eastern Suburbs

There's also no guarantee they'll be new - the ones installed in our Waldorf were second hand. We had a couple electrician come through the house recently to do a quote to change our batten lights. What they found were all of our LED downlights are 1st gen LEDs that could not have been purchased as new recently.

It explains why 7 of our downlights have given up shortly after handover, they are supposed to last years.

We will have Porter Davis installing downlights on ours; this has me worried. Is there any way Darbecca can check for this?

I think anyone can check as long as they have the experience. All you need to do is remove each LED globe to check the model.

I'm not sure if using second hand globes constitute as a defect... as long as they work and are to spec right?

I'd be taking the attitude that you are building a new house! My builder mates won't even reuse a light switch in a different job if it's been installed for 10 minutes

It's a BIG assumption that they are second hand, did anyone consider a large bulk purchase that is still being run down?

Good point, Chris... End of the day, the house is warrantied, so you get them back to fix the big ticket items anyway

New Old Stock

Hey, experts out there, what do you think of this - has my door bowed and is it acceptable?

So the bottom of the door comes out by about 5mm (top is fine) which means the front of the door isn't touching the door seal and we are getting lots of dust, moisture and insects through the gap.

In theory, a good carpenter will gap a door so you can run your finger along a consistent gap around the top and sides...

But if you're getting bugs, dust and moisture, you've got an issue you're not happy with - it would bug me...

Is the door warped or the frame or of square?

Thanks Drew, I'll take a better photo tonight.

The door looks square when looking face on, but looking from the side the bottom left part of the door is protruding from the inside.

The frame seems to be fine.

As a quick fix I have applied an extra 6mm rubber seal over the bottom portion of PD's black rubber seal, it's a bit better but not perfect.

If you've got a long spirit level, use the side of it as a straight edge to see what is out of square

I'll try that tonight, thanks!

(I'm constantly amazed by how much you know)