Which oil would you use? Western Red Cedar window frames

Our windows for our new home have *just* been installed (yesterday!!!). They look absolutely magic =)





We've been told by the builder that they recommend we get out there this weekend and oil them. I was hoping to get a few opinions on what oil to use, and why.

We were thinking of using linseed oil as it is a natural product and non-fumey, but it needs to be mixed with turps anyway (fumey) and doesn't provide any UV protection (so they will age to a grey colour). I really don't want to lose the beautiful colouring of my lovely window frames!!

Anyone? Thanks in advance!! =)

The surface treatment of timber windows should have been done in the factory. Best is three coates with stain which is designed to protect the timber from UV (e.g. Sikkens) applied with the spraygun. Site painting is very bad pracice and it shortens the lifespan of the window.

I reckon your builder has got those windows in far too early - I wonder how many will get damaged in the rest of the build. He could have waited till the roof was on and then the sun problem would be at least diminished. And he is in effect placing all the onus on you to protect the windows all prior to handover. I think I would be telling him to ensure the windows are protected from both sun and other physical damage until you get in the place.

And I must admit I don't understand why you would want to stain western red cedar windows. You buy these things for the timber effect, and the grain and the smell - not for some artificial stained colour.

Having said all that I don't know what would be the best oil or protective coat to put on them. Go to a good paint shop and enquire.

cheers

I don't want to stain them - I want to OIL them. I want to protect them from the sun to avoid losing the colour. Please re-read my post

While I appreciate the comments, neither of these is actually of any use to me. Obviously there is nothing that I can do as the windows are already there, and telling me that the surface treatment should have been done in factory is also not of particular use. It's a tad too late for that, and it isn't something that our builders were willing to put into our contract as they don't generally work with these types of windows. It was a special request because we didn't want aluminium frames (poor insulation) or cheap timber that needs painting. We want the beautiful, natural wood grain. We want to look after it.

Can anyone recommend a (non-stain) oil that I can use on my beautiful western red cedar windows to protect them? I'm in Adelaide, so UV WILL be a big problem. I want to try to keep the colour (which is why I'm not sure that linseed oil is the correct answer), but I would also like to use a product that is as natural as possible.

Hi, I can't help you, but can I suggest you PM Dukekamaya? He is probably the best qualified to help you out. As it seesm quite urgent, it may be an idea to PM him in case he misses this post.

Gorgeous windows by the way, good luck.

I have used a number of different products over the years on cedar, and found the best result by using the Intergrain products (DWD or ultraclear). The paint specialist recommended it to me after using some of the other well known products and expressing my dissatisfaction.

See you local supplier and ask them about the Intergrain treatments (look them up on the web). if the window aren't treated with anti fungal, ensure you do it as the first step.

Every two to three years should be good, and they will look as good as day one. Dont use linseed oil or the like, it doesn't maintain the look and appeal of the windows.

good luck

Thanks so much, joles and ozberg =) Will look up the intergrain products and get cracking on it tomorrow! =) Much appreciated

We all would like the timber natural.
However the reality is that it won't last in the sun unless you have a large roof over it. The stain shows the woodgrain very well but it is dark enoughto protect from UV.
You disregard my advice to listen to those who tell you now what you want to hear but I know from 20 years experience with timber joinery that insufficient surface protection can cause cracking and warping if exposed to the sun.
Good luck!!

I certainly didn't say what the poster wanted to hear, but I did express my experience with maintenance on western Red Cedar windows for the Australian climate. My windows were treated witha number of products, including sikkens, and in "my experience and opinion" the Intergrain products were the most durable, and actually the easiest to apply.

This is only my opinion, and i wouldn't ever lay claim to be an "expert", in windows or anything else! Always someone more learned out there. We should all be open to other views and experiences, even those that are self proclaimed "experts".

I didn't say it has to be Sikkens but it needs to have some level of pigmentation
and it needs a number of coatings if applied with the brush to protect from UV. Or don't you have UV in Australia???

Jesus - this thread was never meant to be a set of flame wars...

windowexpert - your "advice" read more along the lines of "you shoulda woulda coulda, but you didn't, so live with the problem" - fine, you mentioned sikkens, but you said nothing about why it should have a pigment, then went on to again tell me why our site is all wrong. Believe it or not, we actually are planning on having a roof at some stage - we just need to wait for our builder to do it. If you give me reason why I should stain, then stain I will... If I ask for natural look and oil, you tell me off for what I have (regardless of whether it was my choice or just what our builder has done and we now have to live with), ignore my request for natural look and go on to mention staining my windows, I assume that you've ignored what I'm really asking for and are busy jumping on the slap-me-on-the-wrist wagon.

As it turns out, Intergrain DWD has a partial tint. I did a whole bunch of reading up on both DWD and Sikkens. Seems that Ozberg isn't the only one who recommends DWD over sikkens, so DWD is what we have used. Ozberg certainly didn't tell me "what I wanted to hear" - I would have preferred to hear "linseed oil doesn't protect from UV, but here is an oil that does". Ozberg gave me some really useful, valuable information. I used that information to LEARN what I could about it, then acted upon it. Ozberg (being the non-expert and all) gave a far more useful response. End of story.

We only managed one coat this weekend (stupidly hot weather), but will be doing additional coats during the evenings this week after work hours.

Can we quit the petty squabbling and start acting like grownups now?

Thanks again, Ozberg - you rock =)

Glad to be of some sort of assistance Somewoman. I find it gets very confusing out their in retail world. So many products, and so may sales persons.

BTW - we are going all aluminium or UPVC this time round.

We are concentrating on making our house as solar passive as we can, while still meeting our needs as a family home and work-from-home/office space for two people. The aluminium windows on offer from our builder were never an option for us.

uPVC would have been great!! We also would have loved the option of thermal-break aluminium. Unfortunately our builder wouldn't go for either of those options!!! We had a choice of aluminium or wood, and were just able to upgrade the wood to western red cedar. After that the choices were either let them paint it (LIKE HELL!!) or if we wanted "natural" finish we have to do it ourselves...

We only found out that the windows were arriving the day before they were installed, and even then it was one of the contractors who told me. Our site supervisor didn't even bother to let us know until the day AFTER they were installed, at which time he said "you need to get them oiled as soon as you can". Ummm, thanks for the warning! Looking at the information labels on the windows, we void our warranty on the wood if it isn't protected within 30 days of installation, so we really needed to get onto it. The DWD looks awesome!! There are a few slightly patchy bits (mostly where my husband was working!!), but I expect them to come out better on the next coat.

Good thing we had nothing else planned for this weekend, and were able to find a baby sitter for our one year old =\

Re: the patchy bits. Once its been on for a few minutes dont go back over it. otherwise you give it "acne"!! Our WRC front door on the house was as good as new after DWD. Everyone the estate agent brought to see it commented.

Once you move in and start washing windows, dont go near the windows with the pressure cleaner unless it has a gentle "fan" type setting. Otherwise you will have the electric sander and the DWD out again

Good luck with the rest of your house.

And in 5 years he will come and fix your windows

Thanks again for your negativity. I can't believe you actually think you're helpful. A few people skill certainly wouldn't go amiss, and you should lose the sarcasm as you just don't do it well.

The main problem with DWD is that as its essentially a transparent paint it can get quite 'built-up' with several recoats and it has problems with peeling. The only remesy is to then resand. I'm not saying its a bad product, I have actually used it on all my internal solid meranti doors, architraves and window reveals.
Personally I would have used Sikkens but I am saying its the best period - everyone will have differnet opinions and experience with different products.

At any rate, any exterior timber subject to the Aussie (esp. afternoon) sun is going to need regular maintanance. How regular just depends on what was used to coat it.

In reference to pigments - pigments are what gives a product UV stabilisation and protection, without it they are not suitable for outdoor use.

Somewoman, good thing you didn't use an oil - probably the worst thing to use outdoors is a traditional oil. Oils are evaporated by the sun and also absorb dirt - the reason why garden furniture often goes black.

Dukekamaya, thanks for your input! =)

so oil is definitely out for outdoors... Would it be ok to use an oil for the internal parts of the frames? We have only done the exterior so far as the weather on the weekend was so hot and there was so much work to be done

Its much safer to use the same product in and out.
In an extreme case you can get warping on a door or window as different coatings can actually have a different 'pull'. This has happened especially on doors where it may have a lacquer on one side an water based acylic paint on the other.
There is no reason you can't use an outdoor product like DWD indoors, as I said I have it on all my internal doors etc

The other issue is that the most important part of a door as far as sealing goes is the bottom edge. This obviously means you will have to take yours off.
All door warranties are void if the bottom edge is not sealed.