Hi,
I've quite a few posts about south facing blocks and the general agreement is that they are not great as they are not getting enough sun and increased levels of moisture might cause mold to grow. This all make sense. What I'm wondering is whether this is still a concern in Brisbane ?
Regards
Pawel
South facing block
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South facing as in that is the front of your house so North is where the loungeroom and alfresco areas are?
Stewie
Stewie
Generally south-facing seems to be preferred over north-facing, as it means you get the northern sun into the windows at the back, rather than being mostly wasted on a garage out the front. It also means the house doesn't shade the back yard so much in winter. Brisbane probably is a different story though, because then you're not so much worried about winter heating. It may also be worth thinking of directions for access to cooling breezes and cross-ventilation, rather than just for solar conditions as well.
Sorry, by south facing I mean the back of the house (living areas) face south.
In a hot climate I'd even say that a South facing backyard is not so much of a bad thing. Our existing back of the house faces North and we have a large timber deck which in summer can get mighty hot so we have shade sails up over it from October through to March. In the other months where it is colder the autumn through to spring sun is just wonderful. Our neighbour across the road has the opposite to us obviously and in winter his rear deck which has a permanent acrylic roof over it can get a bit cold. Summer though and his rear area is noticeably cooler then our deck.
Stewie
Stewie
Thanks Stewie D.
That's an interesting question pawelpabich, unfortunately I don't know the answer
The go-to website for Aussie efficient sustainable design (the government's YourHome website), doesn't really offer much advice on orientation for passive solar design for Brisbane (Climate Zone 2). Just saying to "Use appropriate levels of passive shaded north-facing glass as heating requirements increase in more southerly and inland regions". Instead, recommending orientating the house for cooling breezes.
http://www.yourhome.gov.au/passive-desi ... gn-climate
I would guess that for Brisbane (depending on which direction cooling breezes come from), there is still some advantage to having north facing living areas. Mainly for passive solar heating in winter, & day lighting (who doesn't like nice & bright living areas). Just make sure you're careful with eave lengths, I would expect that they could be slightly larger than somewhere like Sydney, just to make sure that all summer northern sunshine is eliminated. Winter sunshine would be reduced slightly, but that wouldn't be a great loss in Brisbane.
As Stewie D mentioned, other shading devices can be used, like shade sails & pergolas. Just make sure that the area to the north of your house is not concrete, pavers, or other high thermal mass materials. These will absorb sun throughout the day, & re-radiate that heat for many, many hours. As Stewie says, even timber can get hot. Better to have vegetation here, grass & plants.
For your climate summer heat is the main worry. So I'd be trying to eliminate all western windows (hopefully these aren't required for cross-ventilation. I'd also be locating rooms that are rarely used on this side of the house. Such as the garage, laundry, bathrooms, & rarely used guest rooms. Definitely try to avoid locating bedrooms on the west, particularly if they have western windows.
Good luck with the build!
The go-to website for Aussie efficient sustainable design (the government's YourHome website), doesn't really offer much advice on orientation for passive solar design for Brisbane (Climate Zone 2). Just saying to "Use appropriate levels of passive shaded north-facing glass as heating requirements increase in more southerly and inland regions". Instead, recommending orientating the house for cooling breezes.
http://www.yourhome.gov.au/passive-desi ... gn-climate
Quote:
Zone 2: Warm humid summer, mild winter (Coastal Queensland from midway between Townsville and Mackay south to just below Coffs Harbour).
Main characteristics
High humidity with a definite ‘dry season’
Hot to very hot summers with mild winters
Distinct summer/winter seasons
Moderate to low diurnal (day–night) temperature range, which can vary significantly between regions (e.g. inland to coastal)
Key design objectives
Eliminate auxiliary heating and substantially reduce cooling with appropriate passive design.
Key responses
Design considerations
Always site for exposure to cooling breezes and design for cross-ventilation.
Use thinner plans and design openings to encourage movement of breezes through and within the building (see Passive cooling).
Always design for night-time sleeping comfort.
Provide screened and shaded outdoor living areas.
Windows and shading
Avoid overuse of glazing.
Use low SHGC glazing in all cases and low U-value glazing in regions with cooler winters or hotter summers (see Glazing).
Shade all east and west-facing walls and glass year round (see Shading).
Shade south-facing walls north of the tropic of Capricorn.
Use appropriate levels of passive shaded north-facing glass as heating requirements increase in more southerly and inland regions.
Use 100% openable windows area such as louvre or casement.
Insulation
In areas where no winter heating is required, use multiple layers of reflective foil in ceiling/roof to create a one-way valve effect.
Insulate internal wall surfaces from any external thermal mass (e.g. brick veneer).
Refer to Insulation for recommended minimum insulation levels.
Use highly breathable reflective vapour barriers in walls and add bulk insulation to rooms that are air conditioned.
Use roof spaces to provide heat loss/gain buffer zones by ventilating them in summer and sealing them in winter with fans or ‘smart’ ventilators (see Passive cooling).
Line open ventilated spaces with reflective foil insulation and design to remove condensation.
Avoid installing bulk insulation in ceilings and walls unless winter heating is used.
Heating and cooling
Avoid auxiliary heating as it is unnecessary with good design.
Check typical heating/cooling requirements in the local area to determine appropriate passive heating levels (consult your local thermal performance expert).
Provide ceiling fans in all living and sleeping spaces.
Use high energy rated cooling appliances in selected rooms if this is required.
Construction systems
Where summer ground temperatures exceed 19°C at 3m depth, use elevated lightweight floors.
Consider using earth coupled slabs in all areas where deep ground temperatures are less than 19°C in summer.
Use lightweight wall construction where day–night temperature ranges are low and add thermal mass as these ranges exceed 6°C.
Choose light coloured roof and wall materials.
Main characteristics
High humidity with a definite ‘dry season’
Hot to very hot summers with mild winters
Distinct summer/winter seasons
Moderate to low diurnal (day–night) temperature range, which can vary significantly between regions (e.g. inland to coastal)
Key design objectives
Eliminate auxiliary heating and substantially reduce cooling with appropriate passive design.
Key responses
Design considerations
Always site for exposure to cooling breezes and design for cross-ventilation.
Use thinner plans and design openings to encourage movement of breezes through and within the building (see Passive cooling).
Always design for night-time sleeping comfort.
Provide screened and shaded outdoor living areas.
Windows and shading
Avoid overuse of glazing.
Use low SHGC glazing in all cases and low U-value glazing in regions with cooler winters or hotter summers (see Glazing).
Shade all east and west-facing walls and glass year round (see Shading).
Shade south-facing walls north of the tropic of Capricorn.
Use appropriate levels of passive shaded north-facing glass as heating requirements increase in more southerly and inland regions.
Use 100% openable windows area such as louvre or casement.
Insulation
In areas where no winter heating is required, use multiple layers of reflective foil in ceiling/roof to create a one-way valve effect.
Insulate internal wall surfaces from any external thermal mass (e.g. brick veneer).
Refer to Insulation for recommended minimum insulation levels.
Use highly breathable reflective vapour barriers in walls and add bulk insulation to rooms that are air conditioned.
Use roof spaces to provide heat loss/gain buffer zones by ventilating them in summer and sealing them in winter with fans or ‘smart’ ventilators (see Passive cooling).
Line open ventilated spaces with reflective foil insulation and design to remove condensation.
Avoid installing bulk insulation in ceilings and walls unless winter heating is used.
Heating and cooling
Avoid auxiliary heating as it is unnecessary with good design.
Check typical heating/cooling requirements in the local area to determine appropriate passive heating levels (consult your local thermal performance expert).
Provide ceiling fans in all living and sleeping spaces.
Use high energy rated cooling appliances in selected rooms if this is required.
Construction systems
Where summer ground temperatures exceed 19°C at 3m depth, use elevated lightweight floors.
Consider using earth coupled slabs in all areas where deep ground temperatures are less than 19°C in summer.
Use lightweight wall construction where day–night temperature ranges are low and add thermal mass as these ranges exceed 6°C.
Choose light coloured roof and wall materials.
I would guess that for Brisbane (depending on which direction cooling breezes come from), there is still some advantage to having north facing living areas. Mainly for passive solar heating in winter, & day lighting (who doesn't like nice & bright living areas). Just make sure you're careful with eave lengths, I would expect that they could be slightly larger than somewhere like Sydney, just to make sure that all summer northern sunshine is eliminated. Winter sunshine would be reduced slightly, but that wouldn't be a great loss in Brisbane.
As Stewie D mentioned, other shading devices can be used, like shade sails & pergolas. Just make sure that the area to the north of your house is not concrete, pavers, or other high thermal mass materials. These will absorb sun throughout the day, & re-radiate that heat for many, many hours. As Stewie says, even timber can get hot. Better to have vegetation here, grass & plants.
For your climate summer heat is the main worry. So I'd be trying to eliminate all western windows (hopefully these aren't required for cross-ventilation. I'd also be locating rooms that are rarely used on this side of the house. Such as the garage, laundry, bathrooms, & rarely used guest rooms. Definitely try to avoid locating bedrooms on the west, particularly if they have western windows.
Good luck with the build!
Related
1/06/2024
0
Help!! I’m meant to start building soon and have only really just learnt about orientation. Im reading so much that no grass will grow on the heavily shaded south…
7/09/2023
6
The warning is on the sticker on the door too. Second the aluminium powdercoat
6/12/2023
3
It might be a bit darker in the mornings but the light is still light, so you should be getting it. Similar to what you see from your western windows