Goodafternoon
I am just after some opinions.
We received our Gas account last week and I was surprised that our account was $850.
It is not a financial issue and we are very used to high bills. I wont sacrifice my comfort regardless however it was the highest Gas bill that we have received.
Does anyone think it may be remotely possible that something may be wrong with our Ducted heating system ?
Whom would it be best to call regarding this if there may in fact be a problem ?
Thank You
Investigating My ducted heating system
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How many hours a day do you run it, and at what temperature? How big is the house?
Hi,
There could be several reasons why you have a high bill. In my experience, the following reasons are most common:
(1) High ceilings (9 feet and over): The rule of thumb is , for every foot above 8', you would spend $2/sq mt , assuming a fixed set point of temperature.
(2) Insulation levels: You would need (in Victoria) at least an R3.5 insulation level on the roof - this is where a lot of heat escapes from.
(3) Very high set point: I have found (personally) that for a given house ( I have lived in 2 very different houses) , that 19 Deg set point seems to be optimal from a comfort point and running cost point of view. 19 Deg is not that cold (basically some warm clothing and slippers would do the trick) , and it does not force the heater to be on all the time.
(4) Insufficent heating capacity: This is very common now-a-days with cost cutting in the building industry. The building is obliged to install a heater that just about makes it within the heating requirements of the house.
Anyway, the above is a guide based on my expereinces. You would need to analyse your situation and hopefully my expereinces above would help you make sense of your high bill.
There could be several reasons why you have a high bill. In my experience, the following reasons are most common:
(1) High ceilings (9 feet and over): The rule of thumb is , for every foot above 8', you would spend $2/sq mt , assuming a fixed set point of temperature.
(2) Insulation levels: You would need (in Victoria) at least an R3.5 insulation level on the roof - this is where a lot of heat escapes from.
(3) Very high set point: I have found (personally) that for a given house ( I have lived in 2 very different houses) , that 19 Deg set point seems to be optimal from a comfort point and running cost point of view. 19 Deg is not that cold (basically some warm clothing and slippers would do the trick) , and it does not force the heater to be on all the time.
(4) Insufficent heating capacity: This is very common now-a-days with cost cutting in the building industry. The building is obliged to install a heater that just about makes it within the heating requirements of the house.
Anyway, the above is a guide based on my expereinces. You would need to analyse your situation and hopefully my expereinces above would help you make sense of your high bill.
When I went up in to our roof I found the inlet duct was not even attached to the heating unit, it was just hanging off. So I wouldn't be remotely surprised if there was an issue with your heating system.
If you're comfortable with doing so I would go into the roof and take a look around. You can also check for insulation that was moved aside to install cables or lights or whatever and put it back into place. Be careful with downlights and insulation though, as I believe there's some minimum distance between downlights and insulation to stop you burning your house down.
Not surprisingly we had an improvement in heating efficiency once the duct was actually connected! Previously we were heating air from the roof cavity.
We have a 33 square house with 2550 ceilings on both floors, and our last gas bill was $546. We also use gas for cooking and for the hot water. During the day it's set to 20-22 degrees, and at night time 20. The actual temperature is 1 or 2 degrees lower, so we set the thermostat higher than the temperature we need.
If you're comfortable with doing so I would go into the roof and take a look around. You can also check for insulation that was moved aside to install cables or lights or whatever and put it back into place. Be careful with downlights and insulation though, as I believe there's some minimum distance between downlights and insulation to stop you burning your house down.
Not surprisingly we had an improvement in heating efficiency once the duct was actually connected! Previously we were heating air from the roof cavity.
We have a 33 square house with 2550 ceilings on both floors, and our last gas bill was $546. We also use gas for cooking and for the hot water. During the day it's set to 20-22 degrees, and at night time 20. The actual temperature is 1 or 2 degrees lower, so we set the thermostat higher than the temperature we need.
How many hours a day do you run it, and at what temperature? How big is the house?
Hi
Thankyou so much for your reply.
The past 2 months in particular the heating really has not been off at all with the exception of a few days here or there where I might turn it off for a few hours or down to 20 degrees during the day.
Generally throughout the day I have it between 25-30 degrees.. If I go out I will decrease the temp to 20.
The house is approx 33 squares.
Hi,
There could be several reasons why you have a high bill. In my experience, the following reasons are most common:
(1) High ceilings (9 feet and over): The rule of thumb is , for every foot above 8', you would spend $2/sq mt , assuming a fixed set point of temperature.
(2) Insulation levels: You would need (in Victoria) at least an R3.5 insulation level on the roof - this is where a lot of heat escapes from.
(3) Very high set point: I have found (personally) that for a given house ( I have lived in 2 very different houses) , that 19 Deg set point seems to be optimal from a comfort point and running cost point of view. 19 Deg is not that cold (basically some warm clothing and slippers would do the trick) , and it does not force the heater to be on all the time.
(4) Insufficent heating capacity: This is very common now-a-days with cost cutting in the building industry. The building is obliged to install a heater that just about makes it within the heating requirements of the house.
Anyway, the above is a guide based on my expereinces. You would need to analyse your situation and hopefully my expereinces above would help you make sense of your high bill.
There could be several reasons why you have a high bill. In my experience, the following reasons are most common:
(1) High ceilings (9 feet and over): The rule of thumb is , for every foot above 8', you would spend $2/sq mt , assuming a fixed set point of temperature.
(2) Insulation levels: You would need (in Victoria) at least an R3.5 insulation level on the roof - this is where a lot of heat escapes from.
(3) Very high set point: I have found (personally) that for a given house ( I have lived in 2 very different houses) , that 19 Deg set point seems to be optimal from a comfort point and running cost point of view. 19 Deg is not that cold (basically some warm clothing and slippers would do the trick) , and it does not force the heater to be on all the time.
(4) Insufficent heating capacity: This is very common now-a-days with cost cutting in the building industry. The building is obliged to install a heater that just about makes it within the heating requirements of the house.
Anyway, the above is a guide based on my expereinces. You would need to analyse your situation and hopefully my expereinces above would help you make sense of your high bill.
Thankyou kindly for your reply.
I am happy that you have mentioned a few possible factors. The house does have 9+ foot ceilings, as far as insulation goes and what type that I couldnt tell you - the house however is approx 8 years old.
Thankyou once again
When I went up in to our roof I found the inlet duct was not even attached to the heating unit, it was just hanging off. So I wouldn't be remotely surprised if there was an issue with your heating system.
If you're comfortable with doing so I would go into the roof and take a look around. You can also check for insulation that was moved aside to install cables or lights or whatever and put it back into place. Be careful with downlights and insulation though, as I believe there's some minimum distance between downlights and insulation to stop you burning your house down.
Not surprisingly we had an improvement in heating efficiency once the duct was actually connected! Previously we were heating air from the roof cavity.
We have a 33 square house with 2550 ceilings on both floors, and our last gas bill was $546. We also use gas for cooking and for the hot water. During the day it's set to 20-22 degrees, and at night time 20. The actual temperature is 1 or 2 degrees lower, so we set the thermostat higher than the temperature we need.
If you're comfortable with doing so I would go into the roof and take a look around. You can also check for insulation that was moved aside to install cables or lights or whatever and put it back into place. Be careful with downlights and insulation though, as I believe there's some minimum distance between downlights and insulation to stop you burning your house down.
Not surprisingly we had an improvement in heating efficiency once the duct was actually connected! Previously we were heating air from the roof cavity.
We have a 33 square house with 2550 ceilings on both floors, and our last gas bill was $546. We also use gas for cooking and for the hot water. During the day it's set to 20-22 degrees, and at night time 20. The actual temperature is 1 or 2 degrees lower, so we set the thermostat higher than the temperature we need.
Thankyou kindly for your reply and telling me about your situation.
As far as me climbing up into the roof is probably out of the question
The majority of the time I am in the house on my own as my husband works away and is flying in and out most of the time - besides he has no clue when it comes to anything to do with anything like that
Do you think I should call a plumber ? Or someone from a heating maintainence place ?
Thankyou once again
How many hours a day do you run it, and at what temperature? How big is the house?
Hi
Thank you so much for your reply.
The past 2 months in particular the heating really has not been off at all with the exception of a few days here or there where I might turn it off for a few hours or down to 20 degrees during the day.
Generally throughout the day I have it between 25-30 degrees.. If I go out I will decrease the temp to 20.
The house is approx 33 squares.
There is your problem.
Most heating systems are at their most efficient when between 18 and 21 degrees.
For every degree over 21° it could cost you 15% more according to this
http://www.sustainability.vic.gov.au/re ... iances.pdf
Also 25-30 seems really hot.
Are you naked in your house most of time?
Also do you really need to run the heater when you go out?
Turn the heater down and put a jumper on. Have a blanket handy for if you want to sit on the couch or chair.
There are many ways to reduce heating costs. The above will help a lot.
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