Brivis Buffalo EMS 20 error code 62 - solved.

This tip may help anyone battling with the mysterious error code 62 displayed on the Networker indoor controller attached to the Brivis EMS 20 ducted heating unit.

This unit is controlled by the NG1/lo heater control module, fitted inside the main heater unit outside the house. It is the tan coloured plastic box with the LCD screen behind the service door on the flue end. it is connected to the "Networker" by a dual cable that looks like speaker cable (but isn't).

Within the NG1/lo module is a printed circuit board fitted with the usual array of electronic components soldered to the relevant points on the board. These include several small solenoids, disguised as anonymous black boxes. There are also other "normal" type components like a control IC chip, diodes, transistors and resistors as well as tiny mystery components that look like tiny silicon chips.

Error code 62 in my case was generated after the EMS 20 cut out for no apparent reason during operation of the heating cycle.

I spend a Bl**dy fortune on service calls and spares, replacing the gas solenoid valve unit, hot surface ignitor, no flame sensor and so on chasing the elusive problem.

I looked at the NG1/lo module, but outwardly it seemed fine. Service technicians told me that this module is worth several hundred dollars to replace, so I battled on with the heater cutting out just when I needed it most.

An auto electrician friend told me that soldered joints on automotive PC boards can suffer from "crystallisation" when repeatedly heated and cooled by car heater / aircon systems. This causes older car electrical systems to mysteriously fail without any clue as to why. His solution - go over the PC board with a small soldering iron and retouch the soldered joints by briefly melting the solder and allowing it to reharden. This has been done by him very successfully to save EFI circuitry in "dud" EFI control units. This process restores electrical conductivity to the soldered joints by getting rid of the tiny electrical resistance air gaps caused by the crystallisation process. Crystallised joints are not obvious to the eye.

I applied this idea to the NG1/lo PC board - and it worked! My guess is that because the NG1/lo is INSIDE the heater it is subject to significant hot / cold temperature fluctuations - causing the crystallisation in soldered joints on the PC board and a loss of electrical continuity.

I simply disconnected the power lead, undid the single screw visible on the top right face of the unit under the removable cover on the right side of the NG1/lo, slid the unit to the left to unhook it from the mounting lugs on the heater, removed the various plugs / connectors from the sockets on the back of the NG1/lo, disconnected the "Networker" control cable (making notes as I went) and undid the 3 screws holding the two halves of the case together. With a cheap and small sized soldering iron, I touched the hot tip against each bead of solder in turn, just until the solder melted, then quickly withdrew the tip, letting the solder harden off. I DID NOT do this to the control IC chip or the tiny silicon chip looking things - but everything else got a going over.

Reassembly was the reverse of the disassembly, using my notes as guidance. Power on, and hasn't missed a beat yet! Remember, you will void any warranty by doing this - in my case the warranty ran out years ago. If you are not familiar with soldering then please don't do this - this stuff is all at your own risk and I offer this experience of mine to simply to inform others.

Thanks for the info

I am having the same problem and will cut out 2-3 times a day and if I am lucky will not cut out for a day or 2.

Had the unit for approx. 11 years and has not missed a beat.
Is this a common fault ? I called up Brivis service and they quoted $197 call out fee and suggested it was the igniters. She said that this is for quote only and parts are extra. This is one hell of a call out fee so I said no thanks I will pass with that idea and keep on pressing the reset button.

Thank you very much! I did same steps with your instruction and it took off the error code 62!!!!!!!!!!

thanks a lot~~~!!!!!

luddite mate what a post
I was getting that error several times a day, followed your instructions and [touch wood] havent had an issue for 4 days
I didnt hold out much hope for it, taking the board out was easy but when I saw the board had sooo many soldered points of varying sizes I thought this will never work, pulled the fuse off and it allowed me to remove totally from the plastic half case
I worked my way around it only doing the largest ones, maybe did 30 joints? some where too small to contemplate melting, anyway, maybe the soldering had nothing to do with it? maybe it was taking it out and blowing the dust off it and reconnecting that fixed it? Whatever, it saved me a call out [Brivis quoted $225 call out for 1st hr plus parts but they couldnt get there for 2 weeks!!!!!!!!!], i'm also picking they would have charged me for a new board
so thanks again luddite, I owe you a beer

p.s. the wife didnt even notice it had been repaired.........

A decade plus later.... thank you Luddite for such a brilliantly helpful post!

My Brivis heater was having exact same issues. Kept having to press reset button, multiple times a day, living in fear of it dying in this cold locked down winter.

Really liked your logic...made sense ...so employed electronics nerd son with soldering iron to follow your instructions...didn’t take long...he found it all pretty simple.

Upshot is, a few weeks later heater hasn’t missed a beat! Son is amazed & I’m so relieved to have reliable heating again!

You are most certainly NO Luddite! An absolute genius ....& I’m EVER so grateful!

Thanks again... I owe you at least a slab of beer...

Really good to read this thread as it also shows the importance of having a great descriptive thread title that helps others when they are doing forum searches for answers to problems.