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Framing question

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I'm really unhappy with this section of framing, it just looks amateur. The double top plate has been packed with green tongue, is this acceptable? Anyone out there can help me out with some expertise I'd be grateful.


I would be getting an engineer out there pretty quickly! You are an exposed site with no sheilding, so most likely N5 possibly N4 wind rating, there is no strapping or tie-down. Your horizontal member under the wesbeam isn't supported on the left side. It looks like they have made the opening too wide, hence the beam not being flush on each end against the stud, and the chipboard packers interesting method!!
Avandia


I'm really unhappy with this section of framing, it just looks amateur. The double top plate has been packed with green tongue, is this acceptable? Anyone out there can help me out with some expertise I'd be grateful.


Avandia

You are correct. There are a number of things wrong and I would suggest you get an engineer or a building inspector, but I will point out the main things that concern me:

1. The work is messy so I would be tearing it down whether it complied or not. They are rushing their cuts and not measuring properly.

2. The lintel/header above the windows is supported by a single jackstud at each end ( which is fine) but there should be a full height king stud on either side. If I am out onsite with some framing today I will take a photo of how it should look.

3. I don't believe there should be blocking or spacing between the steel column and the frame. The frame should be tied into the column on each side and whilst it looks like this is sort of happening through the blocks, I would prefer to see a whole stud connected ( FYI I am not sure if I am technically correct on this but that is the way we do it)

4. I am also pretty sure you cant use particle board as part of your top plates, I think that goes without saying as it wont be MGP 10 rated. It would seem they are just using off cuts to pack out.

5. I would be getting some advice on the size of the headers and the type of timber that has been used. The right hand window looks wrong. Its hard to tell from the picture but it looks like a 150mm when it possibly should be larger. Its hard to know without seeing the architectural and engineering drawings to understand what loads are being carried and how it all ties together.

Anyway, the bottom line is you are correct to be concerned.

All the best

Simeon
Thank you so very much for the information. The strange thing is the majority of the framing in other areas has been done as you recommended but for some reason they trashed that area.

They're still putting in the tie down rods. Interestingly, the engineer specified quite a lot of mgp15 wood in the structure, they have used none.

I will engage a structural engineer to check it complies with the plans.

One other question, they just cut the top of the steel columns, there is no top plate with fasteners attaching the top of the post to the top plates. Surely this is not ok?
Avandia
Thank you so very much for the information. The strange thing is the majority of the framing in other areas has been done as you recommended but for some reason they trashed that area.

They're still putting in the tie down rods. Interestingly, the engineer specified quite a lot of mgp15 wood in the structure, they have used none.

I will engage a structural engineer to check it complies with the plans.

One other question, they just cut the top of the steel columns, there is no top plate with fasteners attaching the top of the post to the top plates. Surely this is not ok?

is there any chance you can post some photos of the steel so I can understand what you mean?

Edit: I am so dumb, there was a photo already

I have been staring at the photo and not putting two and two together.

I would love to see your structural plans as I am wondering why there is a steel column holding up your top plates. Normally you would have a steel column holding up a steel beam rather than being connected directly to timber. But if it is meant to be connected to the timber than it should have flanges at the top.

If you can post your structural plan that would be great
You are correct that the top end of the post should be capped.
The post is there to support the transfer of loads down the post to the slab, and then on into the ground. By not having a plate/cap on the top the post will slowly cut into the timber. The load is only transfered via the wall thickness of the steel (a couple of mm). It will have the same effect as pressing a cookie cutter into dough. It won't cut all the way through, most likely 3mm to 10mm overtime. The 3-10mm allowable movement overtime will cause the opportunity for other parts to also move, causing cracking, or worst.
Your frame is lacking workmanship skill and care and regardless of anything else it is a breach of builders warranty and a defect.
To me it looks like form 4 technical school woodwork kids put it together( apology to kids).
If a steel post is supposed to be there then it must have a base plate bolted to slab, cleats for connection to timber beams and any studs also fixed to steel, and a welded cap.
Your beam over the opening has been cut too short and should bearing on two studs.
Check your engineering drawings first.
You have not employed legitimate carpenters that is with oath
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Ok, that's good to know, thank you.

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