7.7 cents per kW, for you to supply them with peak electricity. That's disgusting. I wouldn't bother.

Legally, no water from your neighbours property is allowed to enter your house. BTW even though your decking will be at the neighbour's level. As far as water concerned, nothing has changed.

If only for cars, 6 m x 6m If adding a workbench, add 0.5 m to the length If adding storage, add 0.3 m (preferably to the width)

Went to the SRCC website (http://www.solar-rating.org) and compared an Apricus AP-30C evacuated tube panel to a Solahart flat panel. There are different climates and application so I took Water Heating- Warm Climate, since compared to the US, Australia would be considered a warm climate. Also took t...

The proof is on page 36 of the book "Solar Water Heating" by Bob Ramlow and Benjamin Nusz. There is a graph that shows that only when the collector inlet temperatre is less than 75 C above ambient, flat panels are more effecient. This would only happen for sub zero Celcius environments. Th...

Wow, are 20 cm setback. That's small! Someone must have approved the construction, in which case it should be fine. (I assume it's a 20 cm setback and not a 20 cm protrusion into the neighbours property.)

Just normal solar hot water panels are fine. (Evacuated tubes are not as good as flat solar hot water panels.)

The plastic is referred to as a vapour barrier, not waterproofing. My structural engineer reminded me of this every time I called the plastic sheet under the slab waterproofing. I

It would probably be cheaper to use solar hot water panels and use these to heat the slab. In summer the hot water can be directed to the domestic hot water. What do you think?

Are we talking about a 150 cm setback being actually 120 cm?

If the details are in your contract then the builder must fix it at no additional cost.

As Adam mentioned, it's important to know who changed the ground level. Not only do they need to pay 100% of the retaining wall cost, but it also needs to fit the retaining wall entirely within their property. Then, you would each go 50/50 in the cost of the fence, although you mention the fence is ...

I have a conventional (not waffle pod) concrete slab and I'vput in edge insulation. It is 25 mm expanded polystyrene mounted vertically around the perimeter. I was aiming for 1 metre down, but it turned out to be more like 600 mm. In any case, it's the first 100 mm that are the most important, etc.

Just thought I'd add a picture so we all know what it looks like. http://www.caroma.com.au/ProductImages/Products/4570/4570/thumb-jpeg-800px-24bpp.jpg

What about vertical blinds. They block out, are versatile and timeless.

As kylie40 said, go to the Basix website (https://www.basix.nsw.gov.au/information/index.jsp ) and play around. You can find out first hand what effects there are for various changes.

I used Boral Slimwood (13 mm) over 12 mm ply. 19 mm timber may not work out.

I wish I knew what is used in Western Australia for white setting walls.

kexkez, it sounds as if the white set just fills the voids in the render. Mind is a mm or so thick and easily dents. I know it was mainly lime and a small proportion of gypsum, but I expected a harder finish.