You’d have to check the stormwater plan, every house should have an overflow, imagine if you the bottom house on the street and the stormwater couldn’t cope, you have all the neighbours water coming up out of your stormwater grates and flooding your house. If everyone has one , each yard floods a bit.

Levelling compound also works well for this, you can feather it and it doesn’t self level at this low thickness , you can build up in layers if need be.

A site plan is needed but not necessarily a site survey by a surveyor. It will come down to the detail required. On a new build with no fences it is really handy to make sure everything is in the right spot, for a renovation it’s not really needed, more likely an ident survey at the end.

is it deliberate crossfall to shed rainwater? pretty dumb otherwise.

yes you can install there but I would make sure the supply is hardwired via the brackets to a GPO in the other room on the other side of the wall. You can use an extra switch GPO and a wiser mech from Clipsal or something from Sonoff which is controlled with your phone.

yep I think not urgent, screws not likely to come loose, hand tighten a few and you’ll get an idea of how good condition the batten is, I think the battens should be good still at 14 years. You could hsppilh leave it another 3-4 years, the cold gal is really not achieving much.

The rust won’t spread to the roof sheets, spraying them will look patchy as the colorbond will already be faded. The rust is only cosmetic (to a point) I’d wait until enough have rusted to make replacement worthwhile and use either C4 or C5 screws. https://www.no1roofing.com.au/climaseal-5-roofing-s...

could be anything but it looks like styrofoam

styrofoam insulation expol or something similar

it does not need replacing

Sheathing is a US term, they sheath their houses in plywood, we only use sections of ply for bracing. No requirement for reflective foil/ membrane here either but you can add one if you like. It is not an external wall assuming the underfloor space is closed off. The insulation can be kept in place ...

it’s just a split from the two skew nails, no problem at all, ideally you should have more bearing distance but it’s not going to fail.

looks like it is done properly, are you in a cyclone area? Some carpenters don’t get this right, your’s is great, harder to patch but super strong.

I’d consider somfy rechargeable motors, that will save some money and maybe run the other cables yourself, a custom builder should be fine with that, just make it clear that your work is unwarranted.

That’s lots of complex stuff you are asking for, gets expensive quick with a project builder, you really need a custom builder who lets you or your trade have access for this. I did about 20 blinds, 40 data points including 6 POE cameras etc, $17k not unreasonable for rough in but not cheap. Lots of...

If it’s the sliding sash then lift it out and take it to a glazier. If it is fixed, I’d still get a glazier to come out. A broken window and a cut up hand is not worth the saving.

Perspex screwed to the window architrave frame internally, airtight. The large air gap makes a huge difference and it’s cheap. The Branxton hotel had this over hundred year old double hung windows and I couldn’t hear B doubles rolling past 10m away. You need aircon though!

it’s efflorescence and you can’t paint over it. I’m no expert but it’s salt left behind after water penetration.

sounds pretty fair to me