If you live in WA and have any irrigation that is not working properly or at all please post here and I will answer your questions.
There isn't much info on Aussie irrigation so this offer may help someone.
If you live elsewhere in Australia and are able to use irrigation still I am only happy to help out too


edit> I will post some info up on various things to fix retic that commonly go wrong when I make more time.

Heyya Fu Manchu

In the next 6 months i will be undertaking turfing my back yard.

Im trying to get my head around subsurface drip retic for under that turf.
Have you had any experiance with this stuff?

Alternatively any tips for designing a pop-up system for the lawn. (about 150m2)

Im on mains water, down at Aubin Grove, but the pressure is quite poor.

thanks for any replies

timbo yes I have, and I would absolutly recomend the sub surface irrigation.
can't go into it too much but getting the right info on this can be hard and fraught with "miss information" (she works at most irrigation shops and big outlets ).
pop ups are great but look at using MP rotators as they will be more efficient in delivering the water than standard pop ups.
If you choose Std pop ups then rainbird, hunter, or toro are the brands to go for and select the 12' nozzles to go with them.
I can better answer your question on Friday morning at the latest as time is at a premium right now so sorry .
If one of the mods can help I would like to post some photos of the netafim subsurface irrigation installed correctly. (I don't use photo bucket etc )

From experience with Perth water pressures we "generally" get enough water pressure to have 5 full pop ups working per station but i do suggest doing a flow test from your tap which is closest to the mains as you won't acheive this if as you say you have poor water pressure.
This may make the subsurface drip irrigation by netafim perfect for your needs and not waste a drop of water to the air ...
more in a day or so



more later

thanks for that reply so far.

I am really keen on the subsurface stuff, but as you say, struggling to find info.

Do you have any idea of costings

Try this website:

http://www.kisss.net.au/

We are installing this in our proposed back lawn. As an idea - to install the irrigation system, turf underlay, turf (Empire Zoysia) - it's $16/m2 for a 400m2 backyard

Pricey - but lawns look great with the stuff.

well it won't be cheap up front but will save large amounts of water.
the water corp will give you a healthy rebate as well.

You will need to use the 19mm netascape tube under the lawn.
You will need an adjustable flow solonoid valve to regulate the water pressure to the system and make sure that you use an air bleed valve at the highest point, a flush valve at the end of line, and under turf you will need to use a plate filter that has been treated with a herbicide to prevent grass roots growing into it. It is only under lawns that this can be a problem and with use of the right filter you will have hassel free results.

Airbleed valves stop debris from being sucked into the drippers when the water shuts off. no moving parts and simple to use.
The flush vavle lets 2ltrs of water through each time the system turns on keeping it clean and flowing. It has no real moving parts and doesn't need to be replaced.

In garden beds the netafim 6mm tube with drippers every 15cm is the type you want and doesn't require the filter with the herbicide.

You really should use a netafim plate filter as well. they are about $90 with the herbicide and for gardens about $30. They are very easy to clean and install. Using inline filters will cause problems as they don't screen the smaller particles out and will lead to blockages.

The bleed valves are about $10 and again very easy to install.
The expense is more in the parts leading upto the driplines. eg. PVC tees or black poly tees. you will use lots of them.

Your design will need to look like a clothes line (:)) by that i mean you will need white PVC pipe to feed water at both ends and the netascape is layed out 300mm apart and 300mm deep like the cord on a wash line. Having the water fed at both ends keeps water pressure even.
from the centre of the line at the furthest end you will need to tee another line off to lead up to the flush valve. That way and debris that may get in there somehow will always be flushed away. The flush valve is a great thing to put under a tree where the 2ltrs of water will be useful.

I'll cost some parts up today for you to give you some idea as to what is involved money wise.

Thankyou so much for your detailed response.

ill have to do some calcs on m of pipe & bits needed

Hey stonecutter thanks for the link
That system is fantastic but I have never worked with it .
I have only read bits and pieces in various ag mags and the like about it.
It does seem to have the same parts etc but just take the concept that bit further and makes it that bit more efficent.
Either way, sub surface irrigation is a very smart way to go especially for lawns.
Some gardens can benifit from the humidity that sprays create. I guess a combination in those cases of the two systems can allow a much reduced use of above ground irrigation to certain gardens.

subsurface irrigation will give a anyone using it a better and heathier lawn.

I would also suggest installing a rain sensor to any irrigation system. It mounts to say a gutter and has two wires that run to the controller. When the rain falls at the set rate it switches your controller off till the next time.

You can go to your local Bunnings or total eden and pick up a flow rate chart that will tell you what your flow rate is. you need to remove any tap fittings from the tap nearest your mains and time how long it takes to fill a 9ltr bucket. In Bunnings you will find the info for that in the Pope DIY catalogues in their irrigation section.

I would suggest you cost up the system using white PVC pipe and fittings.
The pipe is more expensive but the tees and elbows etc are cheaper.
You will need class 12-18 under drives etc and class 9 for the rest. class 9 is cheaper. use 20mm pipe.
tees are around the $1 mark as are elbows and couplings (to join lengths of pipe together )
Valves with flow control (rainbird or Irritol "jar tops") are around the $30 mark and are the brands I would recomend.
The 13mm Netascape tube is about $120 from Bunnings for 30m after the rebate. (keep the barcode for a rebate from the WA gov. http://portal.water.wa.gov.au/portal/pa ... Irrigation)
I know that sometimes AWS irrigation shops can deliver 6m lengths to your home.
the Netafim herbicide filter sutible for systems used under lawns is only available through shops like custom irrigation in Balcatta or total eden or AWS (used to be Hugals) and costs around $100 as i mentioned before but very nessesary. (I'd imagine the KISSS set up would need similar filters).

I agree about sprays - just come back from 3 weeks in Vietnam - in the south a lot of restaurants have fans with water sprays attached to keep cool.

I will have to check if we are allowed sprays in NSW with water restrictions (but on recycled water, which has different restrictions to normal tap water)

even after all the great info from fumanchu, i have gone with a popup system for the back.

In the end it comes down to the $$$.

I did however pick up the toro precision pop up with 75mm shaft & most of the bits n peices needed for the setout. They have a really cool head on them that is infinatley adjustable up to 360d

Just to see how they went i hooked them up to the tap with a *** connection, it leaked, the sprinklers were down on pressure and I retired early for a bourbon

The front landscaper (on contract from estate developer) has piped from the water meter to the backyard and its now up to me to plumb in the rest of the pipe solenoids etc and connect to controller box. Hopefully having this direct feed main pipe will lift the pressures somewhat.

All up it has cost me $140 so far for 11 popups, black polypipe, riser etc.
Now to get the solenoids sorted.

Thanks again for your advice, it wasn't ignored

I have installed most of my reticulation in the back garden.

I have:

- A grey water recovery system installed in accordance with WAHD requirements and council requirements.
- A series of 12 inch Pop ups
- A spare station with pipe protruding

My issue is I need to make the reticulation SWMBO proof. She seems to delight in digging it up, putting a spade through it or any other combination of damage you can think of - hence my use of 12 inch pop ups.

With my spare station I would like to use sub-mulch method. I have enough 'purple' dripper left over to use this as the sub - mulch dripper.

I have two questions first can I make this SWMBO proof somehow or am I destined to spend every weekend fixing it up?

Is there any reason I can't use my pretty 'purple' dripper on mains water?

Thanks in advance.

no worries there. It was a win anyway because of the cool lonk to the kisss product

It is great to hear you bought a decent pop-up brand too

the solonoids are dead easy and it is best for fixing later to keep them as together as you can. that way in the future when they need repairs (and they will) it won't be such a nightmare.)

I really hope the "landscapers" did a professional job as right now in Perth the industry is riddled with cowboys who are installing very substandard systems on behalf of developers. they will install say $100-300 system and be paid for a job costing much more! ripping off everyone involved from the water corp to the homeowner in the longrun. They will be weeded out before long to help the industry regain some credit here in Perth. we get some horror stories from the Ellenbrook area in particular. One lady had just a metre of 19mm poly with 4mm tube running from that all over the whole front garden with a labrinth of drippers off that! she couldn't figure out why her plants were dying! I wonder how much the landscaper made on that job!

anyway run the wires to the valves under the main line and secure them there with electrical tape. that way you won't put the shovel through them to easy. when joining the wires try to always use silicone joiners rather than just twisting them together and taping them. this will stop faults occuring later and these can be a real cause to sink some bourbons to calm your mind! I bet the landscapers just twisted the wires and taped them

The pipe suppling your back garden should be 25mm. 20mm is a substandard size but can get you by

remember your water pressure is not much chop so maybe run the equivelent of 3 full sprays on each station or better still 3 half spray per station in your back garden.

Howmany are in the front off each station? that will give you an idea on what you can get away with.

never done a grey water set up yet. the purple colour is mostly to indicate that it is a grey water system in use when repairing if the water source is unknown. green is for rain water. brown is mains. i wouldn't imagine that the drippers inside are different at all.


also the good old urban dictionary came in great to find out that SWAMBO is what some may call the minister for finace and war.

stopping her digging through the retic is very easy. just modify the shovel or spade concerned by cutting the blade part off and handing her the handle. throw the blade part away.

(this method is equally useful for the ladies who's husbands are doing the same thing )

Fu Manchu your advice is fantastic and much appreciated. I noticed you recommending Empire Zoysia in another thread. Our landscaper laid ST91 and I feel it is crap. Initially it was beautiful but eventually dead patches appeared around the lawn. There are lots of weeds which I do try and manage. It has actually put me off lawn as it has been very very high maintenance just trying to keep it looking nice. I told the landscaper I wanted low maintenance. I am seriously thinking of ripping up our ugly grass which has only been down for around two years and trying the Empire Zoysia to see how it goes. But then again if I cant even manage ST91 will I have any luck with Empire Zoysia.

the turf thread mentioned...
http://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=1472

Hey Fu,

Just wondering, since you posted this, are their any other recommendations you'd make for irrigation systems or are you still a fan of the brands above? At our new home we are building we are planning to have an irrigation system for the front and backyard (total of 3 taps) to water our grass and garden. We were going to go all out and go for rain sensors, computer controller, etc. Any recommendations for brands/units?

Nav

absolutely.
I haven't got round to posting the installation of a controller .
I have the photos but not the write up.

I do recommend certain brands by way of a heap of experience and irrigation knowledge. If I recommend you only by from an irrigation shop then in that too there is a very bloody good reason I can't stress how important that is.
For poly pipe and some fittings then the big hardware chains are the best prices. For sprinklers, drip irrigation pipe and controllers the only place to buy is an irrigation shop.

anyway, controllers.
I do suggest getting a controller for external use even if it goes inside the garage. Why? They are much neater and professional looking. They have tidy internal transformers that are very reliable.

The irritrol raindial would be pick of the bunch. This is the most reliable and easiest to not only install but use as well. Any Muppet can work them.[ img ]

The Hunter XC controllers are fantastic. They are also extremely easy to use and very reliable.
Easy to install as well. [ img ]

Then the Irritrol kwik dial [ img ] This starts to get harder to use but is comparatively easy compared to the cheap junk sold in non irrigation shops. The water budget is harder to use on these. it is seen as special functions on the control dial.

That is the single most versatile function on any controller. The water budget. It allows you to change your watering times very quick and easy according to the conditions without having to physically change the programme. It is done as a percentage of time the programmes are set for. Like now mine is set to 30% once a week. When it is really hot in summer, I set it to 150% of the set programme. It is done in seconds and makes better use of your water.

Valves or solonoids as some wrongfully call them are another point worth looking at. Always buy the "jar top" ones. They have the top part that screws on like a jar. Most lesser types have screws holding the top on and they can be a pain. There are two main types of jartops. Irritrol/Richdel and orbit. They have internal and external parts that can be swapped between making future repairs or maintenance easy as. The solonoids mounted on the valves are also interchangeable with other brands. Valves that have screws, well each brand seems to be unique and repairs are costly and difficult. The parts mostly only fit that valve and if you can't find that designed valve in 5 or 10years to repair it, well it is a PITA.
Jar Top valve... [ img ]

Place your valves in one place. Not some out the back and some out the front. It does cost slighty more for pipe but repairs in the future are very easy and risk of damaging a mains pressure line are minimal. You also need to ensure a mains pressure rated master valve is used at the head of the system. It would go right after the manual shut off valve that a plumber will install. It will cost around $150 for the plumber to connect to the mains with a non return valve and manual valve. The non return valve stops water going into the house water.

I might also add that PVC pipe going under driveways will need to be what is called class 12 or higher. This means it won't be likely to break. Under paths I also use class 12 but you can get away with thinner class 9. Don't use black poly pipe under a drive. You will need 25mm pipe from the mains to the manifold for the valves then after the valves use 20mm if you don't have far to get the water. If you have a longway or big block then 25mm will be needed then down to 200mm PVC or 19mm poly.

Here is a manifold and canister filter I did. The filter come above the ground so it can be cleaned. In the bottom right is a brass non return valve and a manual shut off valve with the blue handle. You will also see plenty of rolled up wire spare at the end to connect the to the valves. The outlets were going to travel forward but only one was connected so far in the shot.
[ img ]

I installed my manifold above the ground down the side on a treated timber frame. This makes future repairs or modifications clean and easy. I screwed on some left over laserlight to hide all the workings and it looks fine. I have also done this in nurseries for the same reasons of reducing maintenance costs.

Thanks for that Fu, lots of great information. I will check out the local irrigation shops in western sydney when I'm mobile again.

Just curious, would you recommend piping underneath the driveway? We were going to take the approach for the frontyard to just have an 2 recycled water taps installed on the sides (one for each) and have each separately connected to the irrigation system. We're trying to keep it simple in terms of setup and we thought that would be the best method as our driveway is being done by our builder in advance (stenciled concrete) and it would be hard to get piping, etc, done during the time the builder has the house. Any drawbacks you can see to this?

Being the technology nerd I am, any suggestions on anything that can be controlled by a pc over the network (preferably wireless?).

Thanks again Fu.

Nav

Edit: instead of posting another post. Just was re-reading your post, from the way the photo of your hoses look, it looks like that's a rear tap that's basically split and sent around the whole house, I am assuming you'd have trenching and a pipe going to the opposite side front yard? i.e. if the outlet was at the rear left of the house, and you wanted to setup irrigation for the front right of the house, you would need to trench from rear left to rear, around the back of the house, down right side of house, to the front of your house? Do you recommend this approach over trenching under the driveway? I was looking online and saw many suggestions of getting driveway builders to create a 'sleeve' for future irrigation piping under the driveway, which was the other option we were thinking of however not sure how easy it would be to fix if their was a leak/problem with the piping.