HELP! Electrical work after handover?

tandy2015 · Jan 07, 2016 9:22 pm

Hi everyone,

We are up to our electrical appointments for our home and have pretty much decided that we will go with the standard inclusions and look to do the things we really want after handover. The main reasons we have decided to go with this approach was the cost factor (builder margin) and having the time to make decisions after we've moved into the house as opposed to making the choices all in one day at the builder's office.

After handover, we would like to install:

- ~30 downlights internally
- 3 up/down outdoor lights for front of house
- 2 x IXL (light, heat, fan) in ensuite and bathroom
- 3 x pendant lights over the kitchen islands
- alarm system
- adding ~10 additional power points backed onto the ones installed by the builder
- security/flood lights
- doorbell
- downlights under the eaves around the house
- 1 ceiling fan in the alfresco
- external powerpoints
- change all the switches to Saturn

What considerations do we need to make before we go ahead with this approach?

What makes sense to get done with the builder prior to handover so as to remove any headaches later on?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Matt1 · Jan 07, 2016 9:24 pm

Single or Double storey?

tandy2015 · Jan 07, 2016 9:33 pm

Matt1

Single or Double storey?

Single storey. Brick veneer.

Matt1 · Jan 07, 2016 9:39 pm

That makes it much easier to do work after as they can get into the roof for things like lights (and can run additional stuff down walls if needed.

I think anything that needs to be mounted on a brick wall you should get the builder to do. Chasing through brick veneer is possible, but time consuming.

The rest you could do later.

tandy2015 · Jan 07, 2016 9:44 pm

Matt1

That makes it much easier to do work after as they can get into the roof for things like lights (and can run additional stuff down walls if needed.

I think anything that needs to be mounted on a brick wall you should get the builder to do. Chasing through brick veneer is possible, but time consuming.

The rest you could do later.

Thanks for the tip, Matt! Really appreciate it. Really comforting to get some positive confirmation on my thoughts.

artselt · Jan 07, 2016 9:49 pm

Speaking as a comms/data/alarm installer it's 1000% easier to run cables on external facing walls in a brick veneer house, even if there is insulation in the walls - cables can be run from bottom OR top, so after cutting out the plaster for an plate my options were either using a yellowtounge or dropping a string.

If you must have extra outlets on internal cavity walls, consider that the sparky will need to drill through noggins and risk penetrating out of the plaster. In my time it thankfully only happened to me twice, but not a good feeling making a mistake on a new house - and more so if it's a feature wall.

For internal walls think about locating stuff on the back side of built in robes or where there is a box void (but not the heating return air void) - it gives the installer a perfect place to conceal the cabling.

Personally I am planning my build at the moment and my only real change to the electrical design is adding a double GPO on the island bench in the kitchen and extra outlets in the splashbacks (make any mistakes the builders problem, not yours). Everything else I am looking at adding after handover goes in an external wall, above a noggin or in a box void.

tandy2015 · Jan 07, 2016 9:55 pm

artselt

Speaking as a comms/data/alarm installer it's 1000% easier to run cables on external facing walls in a brick veneer house, even if there is insulation in the walls - cables can be run from bottom OR top, so after cutting out the plaster for an plate my options were either using a yellowtounge or dropping a string.

If you must have extra outlets on internal cavity walls, consider that the sparky will need to drill through noggins and risk penetrating out of the plaster. In my time it thankfully only happened to me twice, but not a good feeling making a mistake on a new house - and more so if it's a feature wall.

For internal walls think about locating stuff on the back side of built in robes or where there is a box void (but not the heating return air void) - it gives the installer a perfect place to conceal the cabling.

Personally I am planning my build at the moment and my only real change to the electrical design is adding a double GPO on the island bench in the kitchen and extra outlets in the splashbacks (make any mistakes the builders problem, not yours). Everything else I am looking at adding after handover goes in an external wall, above a noggin or in a box void.

Thanks artselt - appreciate that your first post in this forum is in response to my Q! Great to know that we shouldn't have many issues doing work with our build.

I don't know much about data cabling either - what have I missed from my list above? Cat 5e/6 cabling, tv points?

artselt · Jan 07, 2016 10:12 pm

tandy2015

I don't know much about data cabling either - what have I missed from my list above? Cat 5e/6 cabling, tv points?

TV outlets are a no brainer - cable to whereever the TV is located. Take a look around the area to get an idea on the size of antenna that is suited for the location. A single antenna can typically handle 2 or 3 outlets without amplification as long as it is suitable for the area, but anything more than that should use a small distribution amplifier.

For data cabling think about where you would usually do things in the house before going overboard and putting 2 or 3 sockets in each room!

My rule of thumb is to not worry about data in bedrooms unless you plan to use an apple TV or other media player - they may have inbuilt wifi but nothing is more reliable than (new) copper (please don't flame me anti-FTTN peeps!)

Same goes for the TV positions in the living areas, gaming on consoles (PS/Xbox/Wii) is another that benefits on cabled connections so look at doing 2 or 3 sockets there.

I am getting my builder to install a NBN hub (http://builtboards.com.au/nbn-enclosures/) for me so the NTD and router goes in that inside the garage so I can patch either the data or voice as needed to the outlets around the house.

tandy2015 · Jan 07, 2016 10:31 pm

tandy2015

Hi everyone,

We are up to our electrical appointments for our home and have pretty much decided that we will go with the standard inclusions and look to do the things we really want after handover. The main reasons we have decided to go with this approach was the cost factor (builder margin) and having the time to make decisions after we've moved into the house as opposed to making the choices all in one day at the builder's office.

After handover, we would like to install:

- ~30 downlights internally
- 3 up/down outdoor lights for front of house
- 2 x IXL (light, heat, fan) in ensuite and bathroom
- 3 x pendant lights over the kitchen islands
- alarm system
- adding ~10 additional power points backed onto the ones installed by the builder
- security/flood lights
- doorbell
- downlights under the eaves around the house
- 1 ceiling fan in the alfresco
- external powerpoints
- change all the switches to Saturn

What considerations do we need to make before we go ahead with this approach?

What makes sense to get done with the builder prior to handover so as to remove any headaches later on?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

To add to the above, would I be required to make any special provisions during the build for the ceiling fan?

Also, is it very costly/difficult to change switches from the standards to Clipsal Saturn Zen for example?

alibaba11 · Jan 08, 2016 5:32 pm

I would add conduits onto all light switches on single brick walls (even in the bathrooms).
If you are going to be installing downlights, ask the builder if they can just leave the junction boxes in the ceiling cavity instead of drilling through. If they cant, then choose a position where you would potentially have an LED light.
I suggest installing all the double powerpoints with your builder, especially those on internal brick walls.

toddzilla · Jan 08, 2016 7:22 pm

Saturn zen can be installed on plasterboard easily afterwards, however please pay the extra to get a neutral at the switch, for switching options

Have you looked at the cost differences since you will be really throwing out the old switches?

Down lights can be installed post build, I would allow approx $70-90 each, mistakes happen and your c idling could require patching and painting. The mistake could be a simple screwdriver hole to check beams right through to drilling one in the wrong spot. With 30-40 for a quality downright is it a cost saving?

Pendant lights just have a simple batten holder installed

Up down lights, install 2 weatherproof battens

Alarm system I would wait as you will need to consider Windows and external movement

Door bell wireless would be easy

Ixl you need to consider additional switch wires

For fans to the bedroom, have you considered ones with remotes, I have them and won't go back. If so have a electrician put a batten holder where you would like it