Browse Forums Eco Living Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 2Jul 05, 2014 1:27 am 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 4Jul 05, 2014 12:34 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 6Jul 05, 2014 9:59 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 8Jul 06, 2014 1:42 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 10Jul 06, 2014 7:28 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 12Jul 07, 2014 8:37 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 14Jul 15, 2014 4:29 am 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 16Jan 18, 2015 3:44 pm 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 18Jan 19, 2015 11:48 pm Hi trixee, A sediment trap requires no room. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 19Nov 10, 2015 9:44 pm OK it's been a while but we're getting to the pointy end now and have gotten a quote for our water systems which we're reasonably happy with as far as price goes. The guy was also in agreeance with what we wanted to achieve. We've decided to supply rainwater only to toilets and laundry, but are also considering the hot water system. Our catchment area far exceeds our collection capacity and there will be a lot that ends up in stormwater. A single rain event is likely to easily fill both tanks. RAINWATER TANKS 2 x 3000L slimline tanks (this is what was on our plans and so to avoid dealing with the council again we are sticking with this for now. Could probably fit in another couple later if we wanted to) Downpipe & first flush filter - 90mm PVC downpipe between existing gutter pops and 100mm elbows at ground level. We had initially wanted 100mm downpipes but decided 90mm was OK, as the flow rate should still be OK and it also means it will hold less water in the wet system and more in the tanks. LeafEater Ultra filter on each downpipe (or is LeafEater Advanced better? Still trying to work it out) Riser to downstream end of wet system and run through 100mm above ground first flush system into top of tank through built-in strainer basket . Water will fill first tank and pump will be inside the other to allow for settling. Tank strainer basket to catch organic debris plus lid. Tank tap at 400mm above ground suitable for filling a watering can or connecting a hose. Tank overflow to run into soakwells. Submersible Pump: DAB Divertron 1200 fully automatic multistage pump (750W, 95L/m, 470kPa). Pump installed inside tank and connected via underground pipe back to house. Pump connected through disc filter to trap sediment and then into Rainsaver changeover device. When the Rainsaver identifies that there’s water in the tank this will be supplied to the toilets and laundry. If the tank is empty, or there’s no power, it will default to supply mains water. Float switch inside tank to control power to pump. Optional: Yaktek ‘Levetator’ quality gauge to monitor water level of the tank (indicator hanging on the outside of the tank rises and falls with the water level). GREYWATER SYSTEM: Greyflow PS Builders Kit plus Finishing Kit, comprising: all in-ground pipework, wall-mounted controller, self-cleaning kit, standard 100W pump. Build-in the ability to top-up greywater system from scheme water via tap timer or irrigation station to increase irrigation volume and/or continue to provide irrigation if away on holiday. Re: Rainwater tank design for retrofitting 20Nov 29, 2015 1:42 am Apologies for the delay, I have sat down to read through the posts a few times but have either fallen asleep or being distracted. It is a bit earlier now and so I should have success at last. trixee We've decided to supply rainwater only to toilets and laundry, but are also considering the hot water system. Plumbing to the HWS is usually the best way to utilise harvested rainwater and it is easy to plumb. If your tanks enjoy best practice, the pump will deliver good quality water but I would still recommend that you have a 10 micron cartridge filter fitted when supplying a HWS. trixee RAINWATER TANKS 2 x 3000L slimline tanks (this is what was on our plans and so to avoid dealing with the council again we are sticking with this for now. Could probably fit in another couple later if we wanted to) Having a settling tank system is ideal. A problem in the past with slimline tanks has been when the overflow pipe has been fitted at one end of the tank and the top meshed inlet has been at the other end but most suppliers have woken up by now. The problem occurred when the overflow's meshed outlet fitting gummed up, causing the tank to overtop. The owners then found that they couldn't access the overflow outlet's mesh to clean it by removing the tank's top inlet. Nevertheless, make sure that the tank's top meshed inlet is close to the meshed overflow for maintenance purposes. trixee We had initially wanted 100mm downpipes but decided 90mm was OK, as the flow rate should still be OK and it also means it will hold less water in the wet system and more in the tanks. 90mm downpipes use to be rated by the Australian Standards as being 3.5 litres per second (lps) but the manufacturers now usually rate them as 4.2 lps. Regardless, they are about double your roof catchment area's required drainage capacity. If you have the 1/2 round gutters, you will also have superior flushing when compared to the standard quad gutters. 90mm PVCu stormwater pipe is measured as an outside diameter and it holds 5.8 litres per metre opposed to the 100mm pipe that has an internal diameter of 104mm and holds 8.5 litres per meter. Nevertheless, you will have a wet system and if you fit a low restriction inlet to the settling tank, your retained water in the downpipes and the vertical riser(s) will be the same level as the water in the tank, not the level at the top of the vertical riser. trixee Riser to downstream end of wet system and run through 100mm above ground first flush system into top of tank through built-in strainer basket . There are alarm bells here as this sounds like you are having a first flush diverter fitted at the top of the vertical riser. If they intend doing this, then this is a really bad amateur's mistake. There will be several downpipes connected to the wet system. If first flush diverters are used, they should be fitted at the downpipes. A first flush diverter fitted at the top of a vertical riser will only fill with the settled water in the vertical riser...the first flush will still be in the downpipes! If you have leaf diverters, a DIY sediment trap, a low restriction inlet (if using leaf diverters) and a settling tank system, I would seriously question the need to have first flush diverters. trixee LeafEater Ultra filter on each downpipe (or is LeafEater Advanced better? Still trying to work it out) Of the two, I would choose the Advanced but this is not a recommendation. Unfortunately, the leaf diverter that I have developed is still undergoing field trials and is not yet available. It is anticipated that it will be manufactured with the superior 500 micron filtration as tested and the debris shedding ability and yield have proven to be excellent. Climbing ladders to clean leaf diverters can be dangerous but the new unit is designed for minimal maintenance and the filter can be inspected from ground level. trixee Tank strainer basket to catch organic debris plus lid. The Leaf Eater Advanced and the Ultra both have 955 micron mesh, anything that gets through the mesh will also get through the tank's top meshed inlet. The reference to a lid rings alarm bells. There were a few products a few years ago that covered over the tank's top meshed inlet with the sales pitch of stopping sunlight entering the tank and preventing algae growing but if the system is well set up, nutrient rich water will not enter the tank and algae will not grow. Water needs to breathe, restricting the circulation of air is not wise. trixee Submersible Pump: DAB Divertron 1200 fully automatic multistage pump (750W, 95L/m, 470kPa). Pump installed inside tank and connected via underground pipe back to house. This is a BIG pump. With most of the fixtures being low flow, the pump will be strangled and very energy inefficient. I would never recommend a pump like this. Also be aware that most submersible pumps are simply (incompetently) plonked onto the tank's floor and if they draw water from near the bottom of the pump, they will be drawing the worst quality water and vacuuming the floor as well. Ideally, submersible pumps should be fitted with a floating inlet or else raised above the tank's floor. trixee Pump connected through disc filter to trap sediment and then into Rainsaver changeover device Some mains water switching devices restrict the mains water pressure to about 200 kPa when switched over and I think that the RainSaver is one of those products. You should query this. Just getting back to the tank's overflows...you will only need an overflow on the tank that the water is being diverted into but you should block off the overflow fitting on the second tank if an overflow pipe is not fitted. You can buy a cap in Bunnings to do this. Also avoid using copper pipe with rainwater systems because rainwater is naturally acidic, never higher than 5.5 pH. 3in1 Supadiverta. Rainwater Harvesting Best Practice using syphonic drainage. Cleaner Neater Smarter Cheaper Supa Gutter Pumper. A low cost syphonic eaves gutter overflow solution. DIY, Home Maintenance & Repair But if it is a ground level open pit, then it is not a charged system. No surprises there. The pipes have obviously been altered and there would be a reason for this.… 3 31465 Grate, thank you! RexChan if thats the reason i could sleep well without thinking about additional cost. But 1st i'll need to read about NRV cleaning/replaing stuff. I… 7 31298 Once you know the basics, the rest is easy. Read my post in the thread linked below. viewtopic.php?p=1919271#p1919271 2 19728 |