Browse Forums Building A New House Re: Data Help - New Build 3Feb 26, 2013 3:20 pm Building a Delta 21 at Craigieburn - http://homeofzero.blogspot.com.au/ Deposit: 26/02. Contract: 22/05. Settlement: 29/05. Site start: 18/10. Re: Data Help - New Build 7Feb 28, 2013 8:08 am My Hamptons build (completed): viewtopic.php?f=31&t=63370 Moved in Wednesday 11th Dec 2013 Front landscaping completed June 2016 Re: Data Help - New Build 13Mar 01, 2013 8:44 am Lurgen My NAS can saturate a 1 Gbit/sec link most of the time, but struggles to get much further than that even with two links enabled. That requires a sophisticated network switch, a high-end NAS, and a lot of techie effort to make it work for little benefit. Even with solid-state on my home machines (which they mostly have) I rarely see Gigabit speeds for more than a few seconds at a time, things simply don't need it. Yup. I would see it like this: If you're asking on this particular forum, you probably don't need the advantages now. Certainly go with it for future proofing, but for people like myself, Lurgen, a few others - sure, we can easily saturate GigEth links (I have a get 10Gig links between devices at home) - but for non-geeks, don't get overly concerned about it. However, using wireless for anything more than about 100kB/s is a silly idea. It's fine for web surfing, maaayyyybe streaming mid-quality video. For high quality video or anything that needs good QoS (eg, Voice over IP), don't rely on it. Lurgen - Buy a decent network switch, 16 ports or better (I'd recommend Dell, would avoid Linksys, and would consider DLink but those are personal preferences) D-Link manufacture Dells switches, and do all the hardware design too. As with all networking equipment, avoid like the plague cheap equipment. You hear all kinds of whinges about their gear being crap, because someone bought the $50 router instead of the $150 switch and a separate $350 router. There's a good reason we don't run data centres on gear you buy from Harvey Norman Lurgen - Buy a decent router that doesn't have a modem built into it (I use a NetGear R6300) This, absolutely. The exception is if you want to go to something like certain Cisco gear. For home, something like a Cisco 871/877, 1841 with HWICs or 2811 with HWICs is perfectly acceptable - though in most cases, overkill. Lurgen - Buy at least one, preferably two WiFi access points that support bridging (so they can act as extensions of the same WiFi network) Again, this - and don't skimp. Something with WDS is probably the way to go. I'm still running D-Link 3200APs (802.11g), which are an enterprise grade product - retail they were around the 430 mark (also, don't pay retail). A Cisco Aironet or enterprise level Netgear would also be similarly acceptable. If you like having your entire wireless network fall over every time you try to stream a video from YouTube, by all means, spend $50. Lurgen - Place your wifi points carefully, aiming for good coverage of both the house and any outdoor living spaces you might have. I'm putting one in my ceiling space over the main living room, another in my office There is one single critical word to be remembered when planning AP locations: perpendicular. To a radio signal, a concrete wall at 45 degrees will cause 70% of the signal loss of a wall that's parallel to a signal. There's a lot of math that goes in to getting it right, but let's just say that walls aren't the problem, angle of walls are the problem. If you're using plenum rated APs and putting them in the roof, then remember that the roof is also a wall. Lurgen - Don't skimp on your network hardware, a cruddy router will waste so much of your time that you'll quickly regret the $15 you saved buying an el-cheapo model This. As an example, at my parents house we use a D-Link DGL4100. Not terribly expensive (~$300) - but you'll understand why when you realise it can actually handle people running torrent clients without everything falling over. Same goes for the 2811 that's going in at the new house. Lurgen - Don't rely on integrated devices which combine switch/modem/router - technology changes so fast that you won't want to replace the combo device just to get access to faster wifi later in life Again, this. Lurgen - Buy a bigger switch than you need, spare network ports are cheaper than replacing the entire switch The difference between a good 16 and 24 port switch might be $50, unless it's a layer 2/3 switch. In which case, you're not asking this question on this forum. Lurgen - Don't make your own cables! Either buy pre-wired (good suggestion from other forum members on this) or pay somebody who knows what they're doing (flakey cables suck to debug) One day, you'll waste hours of your life wondering why things keep dropping out. And it will be because you spent $2 on an ethernet cable, not $10. Building a Delta 21 at Craigieburn - http://homeofzero.blogspot.com.au/ Deposit: 26/02. Contract: 22/05. Settlement: 29/05. Site start: 18/10. Re: Data Help - New Build 14Mar 01, 2013 9:24 am You'll be working towards something like this:- Like ⋅ Add a comment ⋅ Pin to Ideaboard ⋅ Im running the cat6 cables myself with a cabler(only does commercial installs but is a friend) terminating the connections - fairly easy access into the ceiling cavity. Definately use prefab cables... Building with Jandson Homes - Eclipse 18. http://adgnetworks.blogspot.com/ Re: Data Help - New Build 15Mar 02, 2013 9:08 am If you really want a kickarse wifi setup, you can't go past the price performance of Unifi. They can be ceiling mounted, and look great, and have some serious chops. You can also chain them together etc. Really sweet controller software means they are easy to deploy and easy to manage. Here is a 3 pack cheap: http://www.wisp.net.au/pack-unifi-enter ... l?cPath=55 Product page: http://www.ubnt.com/unifi I'm having 2 Long range APs in my house, in the ceiling, facing down. Also having 13 other Cat6 points around the place. The electrician wouldn't install cat5e, said he couldn't be bothered buying it anymore. I didn't argue. Re: Data Help - New Build 16Mar 02, 2013 9:30 am 1 conduit for activity, living, ( maybe 2), theatre and main bedroom at least. You will also need conduit in where were you plan to have it all ending up. That is where your switch and modem etc will be so that all cables end neatly out of wall socket at the end . For example in our place we have an office room so all cabling ends here. Our first phone point is here also. Great for using the cabling to extend the phone to the bedroom. ( we also have 2 wireless phones) I regret not adding a conduit near where we have the tv in the main bedroom. We added it near the bed instead for phone/internet use. If we'd added it near the bedroom tv it would have been easy to watch movies etc streamed form our data storage in the bedroom. The only way we could do that atm would be to run a cable across the floor and since that is messy it doesn't get done. We do have a few points around the house where there is too much interference for wireless to work well. so I'm glad we also have a wired network. Cables/points per conduit- Lounge 2. You might want more for a dedicated theatre room. We use one to connect a dw tv box to our tv. Activity room 2 Main bedroom 2 ( handy as the wireless isn't always good) Living area 5( we have a lot of computers) We have 2 conduits in the office which all cabling goes down from ceiling to exit plugs. One also houses the phone line. It was a tight fit. We also added an additional conduit for tv cable/whatever in our livingroom. This is currently not in use. In the office we have a 24 port switch ( was cheaper than a 16 port) , printer/fax/scanner connected both wirelessless to the system and also cabled in. At least one computer connected by cable at all times. We used to have a separate voip machine but now its part of the modem, phone connected to modem ( does "fall back" to main phone line if internet is down) love the easy of access when i need to check connections/modem etc. Lurgen's comments: * On cat5a versus cat 6- our installer told us the exact same thing about pretty much nil difference between the two if you are running distances less than 100m. Nice to hear it repeated as I was beginning to feel a bit unhappy we only have cat5e. * Separate modem/router/voip is handy and good but then I'd def want a dedicated case for it all. This is where we've been a bit slack. Since our office is the size and location of the original garage it's big enough to have 2 long trestle tables down one side of it. Plenty of room for a switch and a modem on the trestle next to the phone. Did consider a rack but seemed a bit excessive for such a small amount of gear. Unless I set up a dedicated work storage as well. Until then it can stay where it is or be houses on wall shelving. * WA double brick- steel door frames? consider electrical interference- My 2 drop out points in the house are where the wireless has to get through a fridge ( on the opposite side of the wall to modem) and then 2 walls + kitchen cupboards ( to one corner of the main living area) and, when it has to go through 3 single brick walls and a steel door frame( to main bedroom) . Scientists have used random matrix theory to demonstrate theoretically that the neutrino mass hierarchy can be explained mathematically. When a substance is fragmented… 21 20667 If you're referring to Eufy homebase, then just put a switch between a datapoint and put the homebase elsewhere near another device in your home unless you want teh… 9 13860 Thank you so much everyone. This all makes a lot of sense. I guess when you talk to a builder who butters up everything to look very polished, you get to start believing… 7 17616 |