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Post subject: Fu Manchu's Guide to Soil Prep & Laying Turf
Posted: Jan 29, 2011 3:38 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2010 Posts: 998 Location: Aubin Grove, W.A.
Hi Guys,
I have read over the thread on 'Turf Laying' from start to end and decided to collate all the wonderful information for myself so that i didn't miss anything. Now that im almost done, i have decided to share it all with you so that you all can benefit and so that Fu Manchu's great advice and knowledge is not wasted!
So please bear with me as i populate this thread in the next few day(s) and hopefully Fu Manchu can help me fix anything.
I intend this to be a guide for everyone, not just for WA Soils.
Cheers
_________________ Building The Colorado by New Generation Homes
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Turf Laying
Posted: Jan 29, 2011 3:39 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2010 Posts: 998 Location: Aubin Grove, W.A.
Fu manchu wrote:
I want to post up this clip where Sustainable Outdoors' ,Simon Pawley, shows in a few minutes what I crap on about all the time for you guys. Perth and WA coasters, heads up. Sandy Sydney parts, Heads Up my peeps.
Now the rest of the amendments ring very true for everyone else including WA. Zeolite, Perlite, spongolite, organic compost and yes if you want add some clean sand to clay soils before laying turf if you want.
I want to post up this clip where Sustainable Outdoors' ,Simon Pawley, shows in a few minutes what I rabbit on about all the time for you guys. Perth and WA coasters, heads up. Sandy Sydney parts, Heads Up my peeps.
Now the rest of the amendments ring very true for everyone else including WA. Zeolite, Perlite, spongolite, organic compost and yes if you want add some clean sand to clay soils before laying turf if you want.
Last edited by wrexter on Feb 03, 2011 1:02 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Turf Laying
Posted: Jan 29, 2011 3:40 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2010 Posts: 998 Location: Aubin Grove, W.A.
3.0 PROCEDURE
Note: The following guide will ensure that your soil is well prepared for the turf that is to be laid. By following this guide, you are setting yourself up for easy-care lawn that will look greener, needs less water, springs less weeds and better for the environment.
It should be noted that although steps 3-6 can be missed in parts, it is highly recommended to follow the guide if you want the the best lawn that requires the least care and has the least impact on the environment. A compromise on the prep work means a compromise on results.
Step 1 - Get rid of weeds
Apply 'Round-Up' to Kill any weeds.
Round-Up will need quite a few days on the weeds and the weeds need to be exposed to light to absorb it and get it through the system. It is best sprayed in the morning, make sure it doesn't rain and it has a whole day to be soaked up by the unsuspecting weed. Fu Manchu suggests a few drops of dishwashing liquid and a cap full of 'Seasol' in the sprayer to "trick" the weed into absorbing the roundup rapidly an more effectively.
Leave for 10 days. Rotary hoe the weeds into the soil and they wont be back.
Step 2 - Till the Soil
Run the 'Rotary Hoe' over the entile soil area to till it.
Application Quantity: Soil to have mixture of 10-20% Sand, 80-90% Organic Compost i.e. for 1m square of soil, apply 0.2m cubed of Organic Compost.
Note: May use Piggypost instead, not as much required (100mm). (is that right Fu?)
Step 4 - Gypsum(Skip this step for Sandy soils)
Add Gypsum to the soil
Application Quantity: ?
I personally wouldn't worry about using this. In many applications Gypsum is not effective because it does work on all clay soils. It also takes a great many years to have effect at all. Dolomite of lime is better in heavy clay soils but nothing beats what organic composts and their organic acids do Humic, Fulvic and Amino Acids from composts will do a wonderful job of breaking that clay soil up.
Step 5 - Powerfeed & Bactivate
Add 'Powerfeed' and 'Bioassis Bactivate' to the soil
Application Quantity: As per instructions on product
Step 6 - Bentonite, Spongolite & Zeolite (can use Perlite instead of Spongolite)
Add 'Bentonite' Clay, Perlite, Spongolite and Zeolite to the soil (perlite, especially in clay soils, is also a good alternative if finding spongolite is hard)
If you MUST only use either Sponogolite or Zeolite (due to costs etc), It is better to use Zeolite over Spongolite. Zeolite is more beneficial.
Step 7 - Cultivate
Using the rotary hoe, dig the soil through to around 300mm-400mm, deeper if possible. As some machines can not cultivate this deep, keep running the rotary hoe over areas to cultivate to required depth.
Step 8 - Level
Roughly level the area using a nail rake. Using the soil spreader, level the soil further so that it is as flat as possible.
Step 9 - Rake
Rake over the soil with a wide plastic Rake
Step 10 - Compact
Wet the area and then do a quick lap with a Plate Compactor. May need to spend a while on sandy soils. Rake over again to make sure it is all level and fairly firm.
Step 11 - Scrape
This step may be missed if you are happy with the level of the soil, however, scraping will give you a very good finish.
Step 12 - Lay Turf
Lay the Turf around the edges first like you would when you paint a wall.
Then lay the turf as shown below, staggered, as with brickwork.
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Turf Laying
Posted: Jan 29, 2011 3:40 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2010 Posts: 998 Location: Aubin Grove, W.A.
4.0 AFTER CARE
Apply Seasol, Powerfeed & Mollasses ever week for at least a month, then every two weeks for a month, then ever month
Lots of water every day unless good rain has occured.
Regular use of wetting agents through the year (Debco Saturaid, Sand Remedy, Munns Wetta Lawn)
Use of Seamungus Green throughout the year (every 6 weeks). Sprinkle on top after a mow and water in.
Every few months hit it up with blood and bone, more in winter.
About 4 times a year, apply a controlled release fertiliser like Scotts Lawn Builder or even better, Shades of Green Lawn Fertiliser
Every two or three years do a light top dress with an organic compost
Every few years, aerating and spiking or even coring will help
NOTES:
Weeds may pop up over the few months as there is imbalance, let them grow, eventually soil will gain strength. Do not apply weed spray, you will kill more than weeds. Top dress with organic compost, and molasses.
It's normal about a week after turf goes down for it to start going a little yellow while the roots are taking hold.
Last edited by wrexter on Jan 31, 2011 12:45 am, edited 3 times in total.
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Turf Laying
Posted: Jan 29, 2011 7:51 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 28 Apr 2010 Posts: 443
Mate you have read my mind... Really looking forward to a confirmed how to guide about quantities (I know Fu says more is better but if we can get a range ie minimum of x per sqm to a maximum of x) and also the consise guide for what to put on for WA conditions as well...
Look forward to it!
_________________ Built a SUMMIT XANTHUS Our Build
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Laying Turf
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 1:37 pm
Silver Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2010 Posts: 336 Location: Geraldton, WA
May have to check your photos of zeolite and spongolite, doesn't look like any I have seen before. Zeolite is usually orangeish brown, spongolite off white irregular shaped granules. Good coalation though.
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Laying Turf
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 2:45 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 22 Oct 2009 Posts: 5121 Location: NSW
wrexter, 10+ !!!!!!!!
You have done my job for me
Like many others, I'm sure, I was going to weed through all the different threads and bits and pieces, but just the thought of doing that ...
Love the pics, love the format and the chapters! Love how you left the posts reserved for more info later on, so the flow is not broken by useless comments like this one
_________________ My signature is distracting people from my wise posts ...
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Laying Turf
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 6:07 pm
Gold Member
Joined: 28 Apr 2010 Posts: 443
One question I have that Fu or someone else may have seen the answer to... Fu describes mixing the Seasol/ Molasses into a 9l watering can... does anyone know over what area?
_________________ Built a SUMMIT XANTHUS Our Build
Post subject: Re: Fu Manchu's Guide to Laying Turf
Posted: Jan 30, 2011 6:31 pm
Support Team
Joined: 27 Apr 2008 Posts: 7482 Location: SW Western Australia
for my 99 m2 it takes me 3 x doses of molasses and whatever else I'm putting in. But I refill the watering can several times with water before I've used all the molasses as I don't completely dissolve it.
I found my Mirco Bros receipt today. It cost $1.60 per kilo for the molasses. BYO container if you want ( some sort of bucket with lid would be the right sort of container unless you bring a huge funnel as well)
Woodvale fish and lily farm can supply zeolite and spongolite
TrueBlue Turf In Capel/Busso supply EZ lawn for the southwest.