I am getting ready to do quite a lot of painting over the coming summer months and was after some advice to make sure I am doing the preparation properly and using the correct paint for the particular applications. I’ve listed each area or surface type separately so that it’s easier to answer for that specific section. If I have a query about a particular step I will highlight it.
Some general notes:
- The house was built in 1983/84. I still have the original specification from the previous owners who lived there from new construction. For each section I will list what the specification says the paint was.
- I have done the methylated spirits test on a number of the exterior surfaces and some paint comes off on to the cloth or the undercoat/primer started showing so I am assuming these are all water-based paints.
- I will do a lead test but being early 80s I assume these are all going to be 1% lead content – is this a level to be very concerned about for any surfaces that need scraping or sanding?
- We have had a designer do a colour consult and he recommended low-sheen everywhere but would be willing to consider semi-gloss/satin if typically a higher sheen level works better, such as on guttering and window frames.
I can upload photos of a specific area if it helps you answering a question.
EXTERIOR DECKS:
Current situation:
- Rafters/beams supporting the polycarb roof sheets are painted H3 treated pine.
- Paint appears to be somewhat glossy. There is evidence of a pink primer underneath.
- Some sections which have rotted will be replaced with new timber. More minor rotting I will use wood hardener/filler to repair.
- Vertical posts and deck bearers are hardwood. For some reason the previous owner only painted the “above deck” areas and left the areas underneath bare timber even though it’s up to 2.5m above ground in sections. These timbers are still generally in very good condition.
Planned prep/painting:
- Replace rotted timber sections with LOSP H3 timber
- Repair minor sections with wood filler. Fill minor holes from removed screws/ previous wire fencing/balustrades
- Wash down with mould-killing version of sugar soap (some areas need a good clean)
- Sand bare timber sections to give a nice surface for paint.
- QUESTION – do I sand the existing paint??
- QUESTION - Prime existing bare timber or just use a self-priming exterior paint?
- Prime new timber (replacement timber or new battens for new polycarb roof sheets) and wood filler areas with oil base primer (Zinsser Cover Stain). QUESTION – or is water based e.g. Zinsser 1-2-3 ok?
- Paint with exterior acrylic low sheen or semi-gloss
GUTTERING:
Current situation:
- Original specification says “galvanised iron quadrant” was to be installed.
- Specified paint was gloss enamel – appears to be water based with metho test.
- Paint is in good condition – no real rust sections or peeling showing. However does not appear too glossy now due to it’s age.
Planned prep/painting:
- Wash down with sugar soap and nylon scourer
- QUESTION – do I need to prime again? If so oil or water based? Also, current colour is like a manor red – the gutters will be going to Colourbond Basalt so do I need a primer/undercoat to negate the current colour?
- QUESTION – Best paint type for this type of gutter?
FASCIAS & VERANDAH ROOF SUPPORT POSTS
Current situation:
- Currently wood.
- Specified paint was gloss enamel – appears to be water based with metho test.
- Paint is in good condition – no real peeling showing. Still glossy in appearance
Planned prep/painting:
- Wash down with sugar soap.
- QUESTION – is sanding required?
- QUESTION – do I need to prime again? If so oil or water based? Also, current colour of fascia is like a manor red –will be going to Colourbond Shale Grey so do I need a primer/undercoat to negate the current colour? The verandah
- Paint with exterior acrylic with low sheen or semi-gloss
FRONT WINDOWS (EXTERIOR SIDE)
Current situation:
- Currently cedar frames.
- Specified paint was either gloss enamel OR a stain. It’s a bit hard to tell due to the colour – there is certainly no gloss but I’m not sure if they have painted over the original application with something else – appears to be water based with metho test.
- Not in fantastic condition – there’s no peeling or wood rotting etc but it looks like taking it back to bare timber would be a good idea!
Planned prep/painting:
- Wash down with sugar soap.
- Sand back to bare timber.
- Patch any minor holes/imperfections
- Prime with oil-based Zinsser Cover Stain
- QUESTION: undercoat needed? Going to Surfmist so wondering if current light brown colour needs to be blocked out.
- Paint with exterior low sheen or semi-gloss. QUESTION – is enamel good here and either oil or water based? Note this is for the exterior frame and not the channels where the window is raised or lowered so no risk of this paint causing it to stick.
NEW FENCE
Current situation:
- New (12 months ago) hardwood paling fence so it has had ample time to weather and leach out tannins etc.
- Fence posts are bare galvanised steel.
Planned prep/painting for the palings:
- Fix nails that have moved with wood shrinking since installation.
- QUESTION – do I need to sand something like a fence or just use a rough surface roller? As it’s been a year I presume a quick washdown is needed as well?
- QUESTION – is priming required for hardwood?
- Paint with fence paint.
Planned prep/painting for the steel posts:
- Wash down with sugar soap and nylon scourer
- QUESTION – do I need to prime? If so oil or water based?
- QUESTION – Best paint type for this type of steel?
Thanks in advance for any advice given - it's greatly appreciated.